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I read somewhere that the brass nipple through-hull fittings on my 1978 C25 should be updated. I thought that the recommendation was to go to a flanged plastic fitting but when I talked to a couple of repair shops, they told me that plastic is never used underwater. Has anyone had experience with this?
I have never lubed Marelon (glass reinforced nylon) seacocks), just cycle them at least once a month. Bronze or Marelon are both fine, but bronze does subjectively feel more substantial.
Well, calling it a comparison between Plastic and Bronze seacocks is not exactly accurate. They generally do not make seacocks out of plain plastic. What has been used and widely accepted is Marelon seacocks which are a proprietary glass reinforced plastic matl with tensile stress far greater than plastic and much closer to bronze. Bronze these days is not pure bronze and so many of the bronze seacocks being sold may not be to the advertized tensile strength of bronze and being a ,ower grade bronze may gic=ven time be subjected to corrosion if in seawater. They would hold up very wellbut just trying to point out that things are not quite so simple as comparing plastic to bronze. Marelon seacocks do not corrode. Below is a table I tried to paste into this posting and while it is listed vertically and hard to make out what it indicates, you can at least compare the tensile strengths or the different matls. Many of the later Cat 25s came with Marelon seacocks. I have not heard of many or even a few of these seacocks failing. I am sure there are some instances of failure with Marelon seacocks and there are also failures of bronze seacocks. if you do a search on Marelon vs bronze seacocks on the web, you will see that there is quite a debate over which is better. Both are UL approved.
My Cat 25 has Marelon seacocks. They are over 22 years old. If it can hold up for 22 years and I decided to replace them, I would not hesitate to buy Marelon seacocks. But bronze is okay as well and bronze is used probably on all larger and commercial boats...Then again what quality bronze are they furnishing for small seacocks....I think it then becomes a more even playing field.
You're right about doing the upgrade--the early models' "to-hulls" (bronze pipes set in mushrooms of resin) have literally crumbled in some people's hands when they removed them. If you Google "marelon vs bronze", you'll get a lot of inconclusive discussions in sailing forums. In a marina, Marelon is unaffected by stray current, or galvanic corrosion from a metal fitting attached to it, and is ABYC-approved for use below the waterline. The debate goes on...
I should have also added regarding the comments that the Marelon seacocks can get hard to turn the handle and some may fear that the handle would break. When I puchased my Cat25 from PO, the seacocks were indeed hard to turn the handles and I was also concerned that the handle(s) would break. What I do besides regularly cycling the valves, since my boat is generally in the water year-round, I take advantage of the short peruiod of time it is out when I get it annually pressure washed, to shove some grease up the inlet with a small brush from outside the hull. Then once the boat is lowered back into the water, I will cycle the seacocks to spread that grease on the seats and I have found doing this annual maintenance keeps the seacokcs fairly easy to turn with no danger of having to apply excessive force to open them and risk a handle breaking off. I suspect many boatowners do not regularly cycle the seacocks, maybe never for those that do not use the sinks. Even if the seacocks are always maintained in the closed position, it is a good idea to perform periodic cycling and/or annual greasing/cycling to keep to maintain easy operation. If they are never hard to open/close, then I would skip the greasing and just periodically cycle them as was already mentioned in above postings.
After reading the insights of the dangers of the bronze pipe through-hulls, I set about to change mine, valves too. I'm here to say that it took a small pony and 4 scouts to remove the first through-hull. It was secure beyond my imagination... but once started I continued until it came out eventually and I changed the hardware (research previous threads to gain useful insights on redrilling the hole...) but choose to let the second valve/through-hull assembly stay as built...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jerlim</i> <br />...I'm here to say that it took a small pony and 4 scouts to remove the first through-hull. It was secure beyond my imagination...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Sounds like 5200 strikes again!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by RhythmDoctor</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jerlim</i> <br />...I'm here to say that it took a small pony and 4 scouts to remove the first through-hull. It was secure beyond my imagination...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Sounds like 5200 strikes again! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I think he's referring to his to-hulls and if so, there's no 5200 there.
you're right that it's terminology. I was using "plastic" as a general term. Thanks for clearing that up. This forum is proving to be a great educational opportunity for me and I know for others. Thanks to everyone.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.