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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Bow eye

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eguevara
Navigator

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USA
111 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/05/2012 : 22:16:37

So this is what happen..

would this work on a 25 or just on a 22?
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=1412&ParentCat=35

thanks in advance

-eddy

1986 C25 SR FK #5152
http://knoteasy.tumblr.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/eddyguevara/sets/72157626204345986/

Edited by - on

Joe Diver
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1218 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 06:52:51

Ouch.....how'd that happen?

Edited by - on

eguevara
Navigator

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USA
111 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 08:01:54

when we first landed in the slip.. I came in too fast...

-eddy

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 08:20:25

I think the plate idea would cover the damage cosmetically but, don't count on it to be structurally sound. That big of a crunch had to have serious consequences to the fiberglass core. I think you need a little excavation prior to rebuilding the fiberglass.

BTW, I'd guess that the dimensions for the C-22 plate would not fit the C25 but the concept is sound.

Edited by - on

eguevara
Navigator

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USA
111 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 08:23:06

John my concern is not to cover it up.. it's to stop it from happening again..
the U bolt and the dock are level.. so it's likely to happen again..

-eddy

Edited by - on

Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 08:35:39

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">so it's likely to happen again..<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Fix a fender to the dock where you're likely to hit.

Your motor has reverse no.......

Edited by - on

blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 08:50:12

do you trailer the boat? (according to your signature you have a fin keel, which make it less likely to be trailered)
if not i would remove the U bolt, i've seen this part of the bow opened up on a scrapped C25 and the bow is quite solid and thick, with the damage visible on your pic i doubt there is structural damage, if it was my boat i would not open the whole thing, i would just drill larger holes over the existing mangled holes, grind 1/4" deep of the surface around where the u bolt has pushed the fiber in and fill it all with epoxy, after that i might put one of those stainless steel bow protecting plates or hang a couple of old fenders on the dock like i did here:

Edited by - blanik on 03/06/2012 08:52:50

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 10:36:20

I like the fender idea!

Edited by - on

PCP777
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1225 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 11:08:10

I have set up fenders like this as a guide and then a stopper, I found all these old fenders in my dumpster.

So I have four lines that are above the water by a few inches that are tied to a big bumper that the bow can crash into. If this system fails , I have one more bumper attached to the dock. On the sides I put some smaller bumpers, they are not so important, just had some extras. These guidance lines and stop bumper make coming in much easier, I also am a firm believer to the "Never approach a dock faster than you're willing to hit it" that has been said around here. If you look around some neighbors docks you"ll probably see some set ups like this, I copied it from other boats.

This set up is REALLY handy when coming in single handed. Took me a half hour to set up and no material costs.

Edited by - PCP777 on 03/06/2012 11:09:33

JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 13:10:54

I always back into the slip using the outboard, and there's no danger of hitting since I can always put the motor into forward gear if needed.

It's when I'm sailing into the slip in the forward direction, either for practise, or in emergencies, that it gets to be interesting!

Edited by - on

blanik
Navigator

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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 13:14:55

i thought about this but i'm sure it would cost me a new rudder or engine shaft done the road... i'd rather go with the old fenders ;-)

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 14:09:10

Two words..."Spring Line"

Edited by - on

Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 15:25:53

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 Two words..."Spring Line"
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

ding ding, winner idea. We have many in our marina that single hand into their slips. Spring line left at the dock, pick it up on the way in, throw it over the cleat (some use their winches) and it springs them to the rail and short of the sea wall.

I have been able to find the cut to nuetral pint and coast in, with just enough momentum to turn the boat 90 into the slip. side fenders scrub off any remaining speed.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 17:30:21

Eddy,

I ordered one of these plates and returned it. The curvature of the plate wasn't even close to the matching the hull.

I also ordered their synthetic backing block. That wasn't close to the matching the hull either - so I shaped it with a belt sander.

The continuous strands in the fiberglass is where it gets its strength . . .

Edited by - on

eguevara
Navigator

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USA
111 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 17:49:31

I'm going to go with Blanik's idea and just get rid of the U bolt..

OJ thanks for the heads up. I'm glad I didn't order it last night.

-eddy

Edited by - on

jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 18:03:25

Coming into the fuel dock one afternoon, our bow eye got caught onto a cleat...darndest thing ever, couldn't do that again if I got paid...anyway, our solution was the bow plate from CD, it's actually shaped for the C22 originally, but fit just fine and has been in place for several years with just some 3M 5200 goo and the bolts...

Edited by - on

Arlington
Navigator

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USA
196 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 21:58:16

I installed the CD plate, backing block and eye bolt. It all fit fine, I tapped the plate with my hammer to get it to be a close fit for the 25, without any problem. If you do not already have an eye bolt, the most difficult tasks are drilling the holes straight (drill a small hole from the inside so you know where you are) then drill from the outside in using the CD plate as a template. It is easy to cut too large a hole in the cabin liner, best is to cut a little (with an oscillating saw) check the fit, then cut a little more for the backing block. The inner liner in the bow area is about 5/8-inch thick. You have to shape the block as well to fit the inside contour of the hull as well. But it wasn't hard to do. Then bed it all well. The inner liner is not water tight, so you do not have to worry about resealing it, and the backing block and all, can be located and is hidden behind the wood panel at the front of the v-berth.

Since I trailer launch the eye bolt is a necessity. Whacking the dock with your bow, seems to be inevitable, so the reinforced bow eye is good insurance to not so easily having a nasty gash in the bow.

Doug

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 23:18:07

One of the previous PO's apparently had the same accident since my boat has a scar where the eye used to be. It looks like they just filled in the hole with Marine-tex and went sailing. They didn't even take the time to sand it smooth.

My slip faces west and the prevailing wind most of the year is from the south or southeast. I've found that if I approach my slip about a boat length out from the end of the docks on my side of the fairway and arc into my slip at the last second I scrub off what little forward speed I have remaining and I don't subject the boat to the crosswind long enough to get any side slip going. This normally puts me near the finger dock and I just pickup my springline and stop what little forward speed I have left by taking a half wrap around my winch. Step off the boat and secure the remaining lines and I'm done.

I've also found that on most days I can turn down the fairway at no wake speed and immediately go to neutral. By the time I get down 8 or 10 slips to my slip I have just enough forward speed to maneuver into my slip. Obviously wind speed and direction effect this little ballet but it generally works out.

Sounds so easy doesn't it? If only it worked every-time!

Edited by - GaryB on 03/06/2012 23:24:10

blanik
Navigator

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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2012 : 23:46:51

excuse me here but i'm not familiar with the concept of spring line? it sounds like you leave a line already attached on the dock? how do you grab it from the boat?

Edited by - on

hewebb
Admiral

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USA
761 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2012 : 05:05:09

I installed one of the plates, U bolt and backing piece on my 25 after seeing Doug's. I think I found it on the C25 section of Catalina Direct. I would remove your U bolt and repair the fiberglass then re drill and install with the plate.

Edited by - on

Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2012 : 05:57:15

Quick google search to help with the various types is below.
When docking, we use a bow-to spring line, which is connected to the middle of the dock. Leaving the dock, we leave at the pylon on the end of the dock, The admiral picks it up on the way an and secures to the bow cleat. When snug, it pulls the boat in towards the dock, and stops us short of the seawall.

For single handing, a short line on the end of the dock simply gets picked up from the cockpit, thrown over the winch, when snug, it pulls the boat in towards the dock, and stops it short. The stern line has an advantage of not wanting to kick the stern away.

Spring Lines - Happiness At The Dock!
By Vincent Pica, Flotilla Commander, 18-06 ISR USCG Aux
WESTHAMPTON, NY - One of the two great mysteries of boating is docking while under the
baleful gaze of (pick all that apply: your slip mates, restaurant patrons looking down at you, the
dock master). The other is “what side of this buoy do I go on?” This is about mastering the first.
Spring lines are a little understood and little appreciated aid in proper
docking. It is also little understood that there are two forms of spring lines
that have opposite functions. One form is the line or lines tied from your
boat to the dock that keep it from moving fore or aft while docked. The
second form is the line (only one) that is tied from your boat to the dock
that allows you to spring into or out of a slip. We’ll discuss both.
The Springing Spring Line
If you’ve ever been confronted with a wind that is blowing you against
a dock that you are trying to get away from, you know how difficult (and
expensive) that can be. As you power ahead, your stern is being pushed
against the dock by the wind. Bump, bump, scratch, scratch, scrape,
scrape. Painful, lubberly and potentially expensive.
But try this. While at the dock, release all your lines except the bow line. Uncleat it but leave one
round turn under the horn so that you have both some purchase plus a way to pull the line free
towards you while aboard the boat when you are ready. While keeping that purchase, power
ahead slightly. When the
boat gets to the end of the still-secure bow line, your stern will spring outwards
as the bow is pulled closer to the dock by the momentum of the boat itself. Now, put your engine
in reverse, pull the bow spring line back to you as you now easily back away from the dock!
This process can be reversed if you can’t power ahead (say there is another boat tied up just
ahead of you) by using a spring line off your stern, backing down on it, having your bow spring
out and away you go!
What if you have to dock in a tight place and the wind is pushing you
off the dock now? The concept is the same. First, cleat a line to the stern
cleat closest the dock and throw the bitter end to the dock head. Ask him
to cleat it to his dock cleat. Now turn your wheel towards the dock and
power ahead slowly. Lo and behold, your boat will move sideways to the
dock. This can also be reversed if there is no room ahead. Just tie it to
your bow cleat, throw the line to the dock hand for his securing it at his
end, and turn the wheel once again towards the dock and then power
astern. In both cases, if the wind is too strong at dead-slow on the throttle,
you can apply more thrust – as long as those cleat knots are well made.
You don’t want to spring free!
The Docking Spring Line
When using a spring line at the dock to secure your boat so that it doesn’t
move forward or aft while tied to that dock, the only thing to remember
is that the lines are named for the direction that they go in when they
leave your boat. An aft spring line goes aft and a forward spring line goes
forward. So, if the skipper says “hand over the ‘bow aft’ spring line to the
deck hand!” he means – go to the bow, put a line on the cleat and hand it
to the deck hand who will walk aft and probably cleat it to the dock just
past the mid-point of the boat.
The skipper will likely then say, “OK, hand him over the ‘stern forward’ spring line.” You will then
tie a line to your stern cleat, hand it to the dock hand who will walk it forward and cleat it to the
dock, also just past the mid-point of the boat. You now have an “X” formed by the two spring lines
criss-crossing each other.
The aft spring line keeps the boat from moving forward and the forward spring line keeps the boat
from moving aft. In that they are crossed like that, you
don’t need to leave any slack in them for the tide changes because they
will act like scissors as the boat goes up and down with the tide!
BTW, the dock hand could have tied them both to the same mid-cleat on the dock as that does
not put double pressure on one cleat. When the wind is on the bow, the stern forward spring line
is the only one tensioning the cleat. When the wind is astern, it is the bow aft spring line that is
keeping the
boat from moving ahead.

Edited by - Ape-X on 03/07/2012 11:16:32

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2012 : 08:47:16

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by blanik
 excuse me here but i'm not familiar with the concept of spring line? it sounds like you leave a line already attached on the dock? how do you grab it from the boat?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yes, I found it best to leave the spring line (actually all my docklines) cleated to the dock so all you have to do is simply grab the spring line's eye and slip it over a cleat on the boat (I slip it on the winch). I may be fortunate in that my dock is level with the coaming top so when I'm coming in I can easily grab the spring and put it on the winch. Once it's on the winch, and the boat is still slowly moving forward into the slip, I easily step off the boat, walk forward, and wait for the bow to meet me at the head of the dock where I slip the dockline eyes onto the bow cleats.

Edited by - dlucier on 03/07/2012 08:56:23

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2012 : 09:45:29

Time for the Nauti-matic bell.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2012 : 09:58:03

I leave the stern line opposite the motor draped over the end of the dock (Actually, all of my lines are on the dock with eye splices to drop over the onboard cleats.) because it's easier to catch and place it when I singlehand. Using a starboard stern line would be even easier, but it could foul the prop if I dropped it. BoatUS or West Marine, I forget which, has a good diagram and explanation of lines. I would use a spring if I were backing in.

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2012 : 10:10:03

Dave, I think this is the article you mentioned: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/WestAdvisorView?langId=-1&storeId=11151&catalogId=10001&page=Dock-Lines

Here's the image from the article:

Edited by - JimGo on 03/07/2012 10:14:56

PCP777
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1225 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2012 : 14:14:46

My lines always stay on the dock when we go out, I have separate transient lines for docking elsewhere on the boat. I use spring lines on both sides when in my slip so that if the weather comes from the stern it is impossible for my boat to hit the dock. I never need to use fenders when going into my slip. The bumper stopper has taken all of the "thrill" out of coming back into the slip. Many of you know that my engine is not the most dependable so I never come rushing into my slip, depending on a huge blast of reverse to save my bow. But if I do come in hot, the stop bumper will save me. I come in as slowly as conditions allow, swinging wide in the fairway. When I come in I either have someone get off the boat and help me tie up as soon as she's come to a complete halt. I use my boat hook and my hands to recover the rest of the lines. I never use winches for docklines as I understand that can be bad for them.

Another thought, I've never understood why some people leave their boat in the dead center of the slip, making it difficult and even dangerous to get on and off the boat. I tie my port stern and aft side about 4 inches away from my floating finger and the way my lines are set up there's no way she will ever hit or rub the dock unless they fail. So my boat sits in the slip with her nose pointed a bit to starboard and the port side of the cockpit and coaming ready to step on. I always hammer my traveler to starboard to keep the boom out of the way. If you haven't, you might wan to give that a try.

Edited by - on

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