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 Questions about my C-25, SK, TR, in Seattle
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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/08/2012 :  11:01:00  Show Profile
Thanks for everyone's help on the thread about rig height.

I'm starting a new thread to ask general questions in as I update and repair my new boat. I've been searching the archives and will try to only ask questions that I can't find answers for elsewhere.

In general our boat is in good shape, but a bit neglected. It is pretty close to original with almost no upgrades from the previous owner (and there was only one previous owner). It has had a recent bottom painting and a new motor, but otherwise could use attention almost everywhere.

1) I need to replace the jib halyard (it is currently spliced in the rope section). The boat currently has the cable halyards. Can I switch to all rope halyards without climbing the mast or lowering it? The impossible part would be getting the splice between rope and cable through the sheeves.

2) My 1984 has the batteries under the starboard settee in a box located aft. There is a tray in the bottom that fits two batteries. Can I find group 27 batteries in there, or do I need to go with group 24? Currently there are 4 motorcycle sized batteries in there that are dead, so I can't measure what I already have.

3) What length and diameter line do I want for the main sheet. Is there a definitive list of line lengths and sizes? I found a thread with a reference to one, but then many disagreements in the thread on what is included. I ordered the Catalina Direct book, perhaps it lists them.

4) My stanchions just have fender washers underneath. I was thinking about making larger base plates (I have a small CNC mill, so this is easy for me to make out of aluminum) for when I rebed all of the stanchions. I don't understand how the trapezoidal base plates that CD works, there is a vertical fiberglass rib between the two sides of my stanchion bases.

5) Is the best non-DIY option for getting replacement cushions made to work with a local seamstress. Can anyone recommend one in Seattle? We aren't going to replace them all (yet?), but would like to replace the ones on the dinnette and starboard settee.

6) Any recommendations for affordable detail shops in Seattle that could clean and wax the boat. This is something that we'd normally do ourselves, but there are enough other projects that I could see outsourcing this one this year.

thanks,
alex

We're really excited to own the boat and look forward to many adventures in her.

Alex W
Seattle, WA
Express 37 "re-Quest"
previously owned 1984 Catalina 25 "Lutra"

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2012 :  11:13:44  Show Profile
Hi Alex... Just a couple of replies off the top of my head:

Halyards: To go all-rope, you'll need to replace the sheaves in the mast-head. They're probably shot anyway. CD has the correct ones for 5/16" halyards, as well as the halyards if you want to use the rope they've selected. (I did.) Most of us would probably recommend going all-rope for both halyards while you're at it.

Cushions: I used an auto upholstery shop, which also had experience with boat cushions. We picked a Sunbrella upholstery fabric (not their canvas), and added an inch of thickness to the seats (except for the backs) and berths.

I'm not in a position to answer the other q's right now... but I'm confident they'll be covered shortly!


Edited by - Stinkpotter on 03/08/2012 11:20:15
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JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2012 :  11:54:58  Show Profile
Alex, for the sheets, check the owners manual (there's a link to the manuals in the list on the left). I believe the manual calls out the size line that was used when the boat was delivered.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2012 :  13:26:28  Show Profile
Sheet size is determined mostly by comfort in hand and what fits the sheaves, 3/8 - 1/2 is usual. Two group 27 batteries just fit in the starboard locker.

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2012 :  15:52:17  Show Profile
Sorry, I meant length more than width. I found the length in the parts catalog on here (it wasn't in the manual, which is what I had checked).


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blanik
Navigator

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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2012 :  19:27:07  Show Profile
1) I need to replace the jib halyard (it is currently spliced in the rope section). The boat currently has the cable halyards. Can I switch to all rope halyards without climbing the mast or lowering it? The impossible part would be getting the splice between rope and cable through the sheaves.
<font color="brown">like said earlier, you have two options here, two large sheaves that can accommodate larger lines but you will need to hollow out the mast head to sent the lines through the mast (and cut exit sheaves down the mast) too much work for a C25 IMHO... or keep the lines outside the mast, then you just have to change the 4 wire sheaves to 5/16 line sheaves, a 5/16 line is big enough for this) the sheaves are available at CD</font id="brown">

2) My 1984 has the batteries under the starboard settee in a box located aft. There is a tray in the bottom that fits two batteries. Can I find group 27 batteries in there, or do I need to go with group 24? Currently there are 4 motorcycle sized batteries in there that are dead, so I can't measure what I already have.
<font color="brown">on my boat the 2 batteries are also there, i don't know about group 27 batts but in mine only 2 group 24 will fit because they are in a plastic case that's fixed in the compartment so no acid can escape and it holds the batts down in case of capsize, safety standards demand that the batteries be fixed so they can't move around... my plastic cases take up some space, if you where to manage to fix the batteries directly on the bottom of the compartment you might be able to fit group 27</font id="brown">

3) What length and diameter line do I want for the main sheet. Is there a definitive list of line lengths and sizes? I found a thread with a reference to one, but then many disagreements in the thread on what is included. I ordered the Catalina Direct book, perhaps it lists them.
<font color="brown">the mainsheet is usually a 3/8 line 75' long, same with the genoa sheet (although you can cut the latter in two to make two separate 37' lines) the two halyards are 5/16 between 65' and 80' depending if you send them back to the cockpit, the boom vang is 1/4" 35'</font id="brown">

4) My stanchions just have fender washers underneath. I was thinking about making larger base plates (I have a small CNC mill, so this is easy for me to make out of aluminum) for when I rebed all of the stanchions. I don't understand how the trapezoidal base plates that CD works, there is a vertical fiberglass rib between the two sides of my stanchion bases.
<font color="brown">i'm not sure what you're talking about here but rebedding them nicely with epoxy and sealer is good enough for me, i would not make them too solid, if something has to give it would be better if it didn't bring half the deck with it... but that's just my opinion, i'm sure others would think different</font id="brown">

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2012 :  19:55:43  Show Profile
I managed to clip a dock with a stanchion several years ago. The stanchion bent and deformed the base plate, bent three SS bolts and broke the other one. That was with fender washer backing. A one-piece backing plate would be stronger, but the fender washers and deck are obviously strong enough and there is nothing to gain. I was quite surprised at the strength of the system: I had always thought that if I were thrown against a stanchion it would pull through the deck. It would still probably fail, but not the way I thought.

Edited by - Dave5041 on 03/08/2012 19:56:59
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Arlington
Navigator

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USA
196 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2012 :  21:59:07  Show Profile
Alex,check Academy between now and May, their Exide Marine batteries are scheduled to go on sale, then Exide offers a $10 rebate, and in the mean time you can pick up two old auto batteries to turn in for the $10 core charges. I have been advised to get two batteries that are exactly alike, even down to mfg date codes, so your high quality trickle charger will help them to last.
Doug

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2012 :  16:09:56  Show Profile
And I'll just throw in that I have had excellent service from Walmart deep cycles.

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2012 :  22:47:14  Show Profile
The local Batteries Plus has a 10% coupon, so I was going to try them first. It looks like they have group 24 batteries for $80ea (or $72 after the coupon), which seems pretty competitive.

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Voyager
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USA
5378 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2012 :  00:07:04  Show Profile
Alex - welcome to our humble group of know-it-alls!

Ah - replacement cushions are a major topic of discussion. I inherited Dave Bristle's auto shop cushions and they are awesome! Comfy, thick and in nice shape. I've cleaned them several times with rug shampoo and they look great. I'm sure they were costly.

I know you said non-DIY, but if you were so inclined, here's an idea I just read. Cut some 1/2" plywood in the basic shapes you want for the cushions. Round the corners with a 1" radius. Buy some foam (thick, closed cell to repel water) and enough fabric to cover. Glue the foam to the boards, then put the fabric over and get a staple gun. Fold over the edge and staple the material to the bottom of the plywood, all around - trimming, tucking, folding and stapling as you go. Once you're done attaching the fabric, cut a piece out that you can glue to the bottom of the plywood. This will cover the staples and prevent them from scratching.
Sounded like a good idea, but not sure how well it will work.....

Edit: you can also use this trick for cockpit cushions.

Edited by - Voyager on 03/10/2012 00:09:17
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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2012 :  08:43:09  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Voyager</i>
<br />I'm sure they were costly...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Fraid so.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Cut some 1/2" plywood in the basic shapes you want for the cushions. Round the corners with a 1" radius. Buy some foam (thick, closed cell to repel water)<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Hmmmm... I vaguely recall times when the ability of those big cushions to bend through an opening was useful... And I'd recommend against closed-cell foam for the interior--particularly the berths--it feels very hard compared to regular medium-density upholstery foam (as we used in the cushions Bruce likes so much).

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awetmore
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USA
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Response Posted - 03/12/2012 :  12:22:10  Show Profile
Cushions are out of the boat and we've got a few local leads on where to get new ones made. My wife is going to look into that on a day off this week. I'm tempted not to make quarter berth ones, that area seems more useful for storage than sleeping anyway.

I installed two group 24 batteries over the weekend. I don't think that group 27s would fit under the starboard seat on our boat. I might move one to port anyway, between the motor, batteries, and water being on the starboard side it seems like our boat leans to starboard quite a bit. It seems like that is a common complaint on the forums.

Over the weekend I realized that the head isn't in very good condition, so I think we'll replace that with a MSD-style porta potty and remove the holding tank. If the boat is still in the water what should I do about the head's through-hole that is under the dinette? Just cap it off on top of the valve?

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Prospector
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Canada
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Response Posted - 03/12/2012 :  12:28:53  Show Profile  Visit Prospector's Homepage
we stick our 14 yr old in teh quarter berth and she loves it. With a curtain across there you could have some pretty good privacy for sleeping in the day to keep fresh for a night shift. Almost every other berth in the boat has a roll risk, but that little space is THE spot if you don't want to roll out of bed. Of course the Vee berth also works for that, but it comes with the problem of being our sail storage while underway.

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dlucier
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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2012 :  12:35:21  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by awetmore</i>
<br />I'm tempted not to make quarter berth ones, that area seems more useful for storage than sleeping anyway.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I removed my quarterberth cushions about nine years ago and use the space for storing mainly my 12 plus life jackets, cockpit cushions, Sport-a-Seats, and about a dozen swim noodles. When needed, I also put a larger cooler next to the starboard settee.

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awetmore
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Response Posted - 03/12/2012 :  12:46:46  Show Profile
We don't have any kids, and expect that it will just be the two of us sleeping aboard. I'd keep the original QB cushions (which are in the best shape of all of the ones in the boat) in storage at home just in case a need came up for them. I'd been assuming that we wouldn't both fit (I'm 5'11", my wife is 5'2") in the vee berth, but we tried it out yesterday and were plenty comfortable.

I have our genoa stored away in the QB too, but it'll take some more time sailing the boat to see if that is a place that sticks.

Our boat also came with a stupid large number of PFDs (11 adult, 2 kid). I'm going to triage and keep the best 4 adult ones readily on hand and stick another couple in deeper storage on the boat, and give away the rest. We also have a large collection of higher quality PFDs at home from years of sea kayaking and don't really need to own 19 of them.

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dmpilc
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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2012 :  13:51:37  Show Profile
Check out Novatech XLE line on Ebay for your halyards:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190553823652?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
I like it a lot. It's a Canadian line similar to Samson XLS and very reasonably priced. While their ebay listing is for 100 ft., I bet that if you contact them directly, they will cut the lengths you need. For halyards led aft to the cockpit, for the tall rig you will need 78 ft for the jib and 75 ft for the main, but I would go ahead and order 80 ft for both and trim later if needed. Those measurements are based on the lengths of forestay and mast plus 10 for the jib halyard and mast times 2 plus 10 for the main.
To go to all rope halyards, you will need to replace the 4 sheaves at the masthead with wider sheaves to handle the 5/16" line. They are available from CD.

When you take down the mast to replace the sheaves, it is an easy job but be very careful with the divider plate that separates the 2 pair of sheaves. Also, if you think you might add a spinnaker later, this would be a good time to go ahead and install the halyard. To do this, a swivel block would be attached to the forwardmost pin on the masthead and the forestay would be moved to the second pin position.
Other mast-down jobs include checking the lights on the mast and replacing crazed lenses where needed, fixing/installing a windex, and any desired radio antennae.

Good luck with your boat. 84 was a good year. Unfortunately, I've just recently sold mine after owning her for about 5 years.

Edited by - dmpilc on 03/12/2012 14:12:54
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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
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Response Posted - 03/12/2012 :  14:02:14  Show Profile
I already purchased the halyards. For halyards and the main sheet I used Samson XLS Extra. That cost a lot more than 48 cents per foot :(.

I hadn't thought to check eBay for lines and will do this for the next ones.

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