Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
We removed our masthead unit some time ago, and have found that the gauges don't work very well without the sending unit. In fact, they don't work at all, no matter how much I try to Jedi them into action. I guess its hard to judge windspeed and direction without a vane and anemometer.
We also haven't missed the gauges at all since they stopped reading. In fact, its one less worry while sailing.
To that end, I am considering patching over the holes where they once were. Other folks who have ventured down this road, can you offer any insights? I am considering a couple approaches to the fix right now, ranging from plugs and mounting plates for chartplotters to a full repair with new gelcoat. Part of me says keep the holes inplace for a reinstall of the gauges in case I decide I want to resurrect them, but part of me says that holes are opportunities for water to enter the boat, no matter how well plugged. A tough decision.
I am not interested in the "tiny porthole" cure at all. I've seen it on other boats and it just doesn't turn my crank.
What you can do to if you want to put a patch over the hole(s) without putting addl bolt holes in the bulkhead is use a piece of starboard but the attachment bolts installed going thru the gauge existing hole along it's inside perimeter vs drilling holes around the outside of the existing hole. Then put a beveled edge on the outside edge and caps on the thru bolt heads. I did this when I installed a fishfinder on a RAM Swing Arm. On the bulkhead inside, I used another piece of starboard to cover up the hole and serve as a mount for the Swing Arm. In this way, using some sealant on the outside starboard perimeter and tightening up the thru bolts, the bolts hold the starboard by the friction/sealant that provides a secure waterproof seal. My inside starboard mounting board also fits adjacent and against the bulkhead edge so there is no way the starboard shifts. But the bolts alone should provide a secure mount if you use a similar starboard circle pattern on the inside vs what I did to mount the Swing Arm.
A PO filled the holes on Pear with Marine-tex. I covered the the port side with a large rectangular piece of Starboard and remounted the displays, essentially creating an instrument panel that doesn't look out of place. The same thing could be done with teak.
Have a sign maker engrave "iris" on two teak plaques and mount them ovet the holes. Or, if you don't like Iris, you could always go with one of those logos from the mud flaps of 18 wheelers.
The guy that owns the C27 next to me took out the gauges, enlarged the openings, and installed opening ports like the ones in the cockpit area on the '88 - '89's. It looks good, brings in more light, and provides better air flow through the cabin.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Happy D</i> <br />can you post a photo of the holes? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
What do you need to know? They are 4-1/8" diameter, and the bulkhead is 1.172" - 1.311" thick (I mic-ed it to check).
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.