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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am making a mounting plate for some cockpit electronics and will need a fairly good sized hunk of whatever I decide to go with, but i fear that the afrormosia will be more prone to warping, checking, or some other unforeseen issues.
If the price difference is simply driven by demand, then I will be getting the cheaper wood for this, but if there are any quality issues folks are aware of, I'd really appreciate hearing from you.
Afrormosia closely resembles teak and is so often used as a teak substitute that it is sometimes referred to as African teak. It is prized for more than simply its resemblance to teak - it is also valued for character and properties all its own. It is grown in West Africa, primarily Ghana and the Ivory Coast.
Afrormosia is suitable for many applications, among them veneers, paneling, boat building, stairs, flooring, high-end joinery, cabinetmaking, farm implements, decks and marine piling.
Afrormosia is a heavy and dense wood that is extremely durable and very resistant to termites. This wood has a wide range of uses both for interior and exterior applications. It contains tannin, a substance that has a tendency to cause blue stains. If used near metals in wet conditions, such as in boatbuilding, it will cause corrosion or dark staining.
Sawdust from Afrormosia can be an eye irritant. Work this wood in conditions that provide good ventilation.
Afrormosia dries slowly with little degrade and small movement in service. The wood has medium resistance to tools. Experts recommend a 20 degree cutting angle to avoid raising the grain when planing. Tungsten carbide-tipped saws are recommended to avoid tool wear. Prebore for nailing and screwing. Afrormosia glues well and finishes excellently.
Wood is heavy and dense, has high bending strength, medium stiffness, high crushing strength, moderate bending classification. The wood may distort during steaming. -------------------------------- It is also listed [URL="http://albaraawood.com/download/woodrange.pdf"]in this PDF[/URL] as being used in marine decking and for other exterior marine purposes.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Happy D</i> <br />What does "a fairly good sized hunk of wood" mean? I might be able to help out. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
For that size I'd go with teak. You may also want to try mahogany - I've used it in the cockpit and under a few coats of honey-colored Cetol I'd challenge most people to tell me which is which.
I like working with mahogany. When I was a kid, my dad restored an old Yellow Jacket boat...it had a mahogany dashboard buried under many layers of paint. He stripped it down and rescued that dash. With brass trimmed instruments, it was absolutely gorgeous.
I'm looking at about the same size as joe - need to do a gauge delete, so I'm thinking backing plates for gauges on both sides of the companionway for symmetry.
Is 12x14 your actual, finished size, or just what you need to be able to cut out the pieces? The reason I ask is that you can frequently find teak furniture on Craigslist, or even Freecycle, for very reasonable prices. You might be able to take the pieces from the furniture and glue them up to get the parts you need.
I'm also doing a guage delete. I have 2 big 4" holes on top of each other I need to cover. The 12x14 is a rough size but accurate within an inch or two of the finished size.
I think if I had two large holes to fill I would be inclined to fill them with core wood, fiberglass and top it off with gelcoat so it looked like it never had holes. It's a lot of work but then you're starting with a clean slate. The biggest problem is the inside gelcoat is finished in texture and will be impossible to match nicely.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Happy D</i> <br />The biggest problem is the inside gelcoat is finished in texture and will be impossible to match nicely. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yes, teak is a wonderful wood.....but mahogany is also stunning when worked. It has a beautiful grain and is so warm and soft when varnished. Doesn't have the staying power of teak for the outside stuff though, but inside can be stunning.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.