Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I still had trouble with grounds after I changed to LED trailer lights and have been planning to rewire the trailer for a couple of years. I hook up the trailer four times a year and invariably take off a few nuts and sand the rust under the ring connectors before I hit the road. I finally got around to it yesterday and today. My plan had been to run dedicated ground wire to all of the lights and put everything in plastic conduit inside the frame. I couldn't work the conduit past the brake line and a couple of bolts without removing cross members and abandoned that aspect, but the condition of the wire I removed suggested that it would have been of marginal benefit at best. So anyway, heat shrink splices coated with Liquid Electrical Tape, sealed lights, ground wire instead of frame grounding, and uninterrupted wire runs for all five light assemblies should give me a trouble free future. I'll see next month.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Mine had a ground wire from the frame to the plug, so my usual problem was between the light assembly and the frame. It usually delayed departure for a half hour and added a slightly testy attitude.
Trailer wire is pretty crappy as the insulation is subject to chafe, so what happens is the wire tends to ground out making matters worse. I prefer to us 14-3 stranded cable with a sheath covering the wire. This provides you with two lines running from the bumper connector thru the pigtail out to two three-way connectors. Three way connector #1 carries left turn/brake, left tail-light and ground to the left fixture. You can extend this wire to connect to an optional amber side running light. Three way connector #2 carries right turn/brake, right tail-light and ground to the right fixture. You can use nylon mesh taped over at pinch points to reduce chafe. Good places for this is where the wire reaches the end of a frame member or comes through an opening. Use nylon cable ties to keep the cables in place.
Its good to run and extra cable in case the existing one fails.
I used 16 ga X 4 bonded trailer wire with a hard plastic finish over the insulation, not much current for LED units. The wire I removed was the typical 18 ga trailer stuff with originally soft insulation and no protective coat: while there was no evidence of chaff (my planned conduit approach), the insulation was heavily oxidized and friable. I also renewed the grommets at all pass-throughs.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.