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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I understand the argument over having a manual choke...many are use to it and feel that it provides addl control that they have over the outboard. But I have had my Honda for 6 years now and I do not miss the manual choke at all. Things change, you have to get over it. Autos use to have carburetors and I am sure there are those that similarly liked the control they had over carburetors. Some of you probably remember sticking a pencil in to hold the air intake plate open. But those days are over as well and I do not think there are many that would want to go back to carburetors vs fuel injectors that are electronically controlled and pretty much what all autos have these days. I think one of the hesitancies my spouse has regarding trading in our '99 Honda Odyssey for a new one or similar is that these days there are so many more electronic gizmos on these autos and with them, addl idiot lights. We use to all change oil in autos at 3000 miles and there are still some die-hards out there that continue to do so, however, most auto manufacturers now recommend normal duty use cars to have oil changed at 7500 miles and a number of auto mfrs now use synthetic oil as the required oil.
Obviously, Honda has enough confidence in the electronic choke control that they do not offer a manual choke as an option. You know...there was a time that there were only 2 stroke outboards. I believe when Honda started making outboards, they were 4 stroke. Most new outboards these days are now 4 stroke. Yes, there are different issues with 4 strokes vs 2 stroke outboards....but again I do not see an issue with the 4 stroke outboards, though, there are those with some engine fuel clogging issues due to the narrow ports.
I think there will come a time soon when some of you will be ready to buy a new outboard and you will have to give up your manual choke preference. Right now, you have a choice but I believe with every year that goes by....some of you are going to have to adapt or else hang onto your aging outboards or go with the few mfrs that still offer a manual choke.
At one time all boats were made of wood and fiberglass boats were considered a joke --called tupperware boats. Things have certainly changed.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I think there will come a time soon when some of you will be ready to buy a new outboard and you will have to give up your manual choke preference.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I totally agree Larry but I think its more of the new electronic generation or even women not knowing ( or wanting to know)the mechanics of a choke and wanting the " I just want to push a button" mentality forcing the engine builders to make things that even a cave man could operate. Who knows, It could be cheaper for them to build and forces you to bring it in for repair $$$$ than fixing it your self. All pluses for them. As far as the demise of the 2 stroke, Strictly forced on the engine builders to come up with cleaner emission engines or go out of business and not having to mix oil and gas fits right in with that cave man mentality, But you are right that the times are a changin..
Actually, I thought I was going to take a lot more flak.on my posting. LOL. I agree with all everyone has said. I wanted the Honda. It happened to come with an electronic choke. The manual choke on the past outboard was no problem and haing the extra control can come in handy if your outboard is acting up. Luckily, I have been fotunate that my outboard has been running fine. I hope I havn't put a hex on it !
I have no objection to automation and complexity. I know that I can figure out the quirks of almost anything, and make it work. My power washer example may be less a condemnation of automatic choke than it is of Sears/Briggs&Stratton's flawed implementation of it. Since Larry and others have never had this problem with their automatic choke Hondas, I can only conclude that Honda has done a better job with it than B&S, which sadly seems to be consistent with the US's competitiveness on so many things these days.
Usually if you can reach the choke mechanism on an automatic choke you can hold it shut if needed. Also, in a pinch you could wedge something in the kinkage to hold it partially open if yo need to limp back home.
My Honda generator at home has a manual and an automatic choke. Maybe the outboards do too under the cowlng?
This is off topic but Rick...you mentioned about your power washer. I have to tell this story:
Seveal years ago, I bought a pressure washer from Sears. Instructions indicated the warnings such as always have the hose hooked up to it and the water "on" before starting and using the pressure washer. Well...I did that but as i was using the pressure washer...all of a sudden the water stopped coming out. I did not kow immdeiately why and probably took ...more than a few seconds before I turned the unit off and investigated. My water hose had burst. Well, I then hooked up a spare hose fairly quickly and turned the pressure washer back on. After it initially started...it went "Boing !" and the lower pump end fell of the pressure washer onto the ground. The bolts that held it had all snapped ! I suspected it was because the unit was very hot from when the water stopped running through it and then when I started it up with the new hose, the initial cold water that flowed snapped the overheated bolts.
I called up Sears and they asked me if I had the water hose hooked up to the unit....well I answered "Yes". Techncally that was the right answer...the water hose was hooked up (but the water had stopped flowing due to the hose burst). So, they took the unit back and gave me a new unit. But since they had to ring it up again at the cash register, turns out the day I went, they were giving a $20 or $30 coupon for purchasing that day (well it really a refund and new purchase transaction). I used the coupon to buy a another water hose !!
I just picked up my new Tohatsu this weekend. I can't give much feedback on it as i'm waiting to get into water in 3 weeks. But based on several weeks of research i decided on Tohatsu (I won't reiterate it, as most pros/cons were identified in the above posts)
Just one word of advise that I got at the store where i picked up my new motor: 1. always use fuel stabilizer (it's quite obvious, but is amazing that most people don't) 2. if you're not going to be running the motor for 2 or 3 days, disconnect the fuel line and burn all the remaining fuel.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by szymek</i> <br />...1. always use fuel stabilizer (it's quite obvious, but is amazing that most people don't) 2. if you're not going to be running the motor for 2 or 3 days, disconnect the fuel line and burn all the remaining fuel.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I would add to that to always keep your tank topped off, and keep the vent cap closed. Stabilizer will reduce oxidation of the gas, but it will not prevent the absorption of water vapor which ultimately leads to phase separation. To do that you need to prevent moisture from getting to the gas, and the best way to prevent that is minimize the airspace in your tank (keep it full), and seal the tank. And if you see your tank bulging in warm weather, don't bother to vent off the pressure, since it will just come back again. That pressure will actually help prevent air from coming into the tank.
Also, if you have a 4-stroke, it's a good idea to empty your tank into your car's gas tank every couple of months and start with all fresh gas.
Yes a good point regarding whether to run the fuel out of the engine or leave it in. There are postings in the archives regrding this subject. I use to always run the fuel out of the engine once dockside. The rationale is that you do not want fuel deposits forming in the gas lines/engine. However, by running the gas out of the engine, you also potentially set yourself up for condensation/water forming in the gas lines. So, years ago I changed to immediately turning off the outboard as I come into the slip unless I probably will not be back onboard for more than a week. I have had no outboard issues going by this. I also always use either Startron or Stabile with each fuel tank fill-up. One thing I also do in during the winter months when temps can fall below 32F, after my outboard is raised and I leave it always in the raised vertical position, I will pull the cord (may momentarily start the outboard) just to shake off any water that may be on the impeller...so there is no water freeze ups on the impeller.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I used the coupon to buy a another water hose !!<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Now that's funny!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.