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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Loose pins in through-deck connector

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JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/12/2012 : 13:32:26

I installed a new through-deck connector last summer when I changed the anchor light LED bulb, added a foredeck light, and replaced the steaming light fixture. Since then the pins became dirty and I scraped them off to re-connect the mast light circuits, maybe three times.

Now the pins seem to be loose and do not connect properly unless they are inserted half way and tilted a bit. :Last weekend I taped the connector like that using duct tape. Hurray for duct tape!

Is a reasonable fix for this problem the use of "electrical conductive grease", which would fill in the gap between the pins and the sockets? I've never used that stuff, but it is sold on the web and probably in some stores.

[url="http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LOCTITE-Anti-Seize-Compound-5E203?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-BTM_BTB05209020&cm_vc=IDPBBZ2"]Loctite copper anti-seize compound[/url]

[url="http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LOCTITE-Anti-Seize-Compound-4KM51?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1"]Loctite nickel anti-seize compound[/url]

[url="http://sra-solder.com/product.php/6770/0/2a7165b19e86d4526933001e13395b78"]SRA carbon conductive grease 846[/url]

Is there some other easy fix for these connectors?

I really need the steaming light and the anchor light to be reliable, since I am out in the boat at night frequently.

JohnP
1978 C25 SR/FK "Gypsy"
Mill Creek off the Magothy River, Chesapeake Bay
Port Captain, northern Chesapeake Bay

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 06/12/2012 : 13:47:53

Ya know John, In my mind it seems like the only way to keep the deck connector decent is to take it out of the deck. Seems like the weight of the wire coming off it above causes problems, or maybe they're just cheaply made. But I agree, they don't hold up too well.

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 06/12/2012 : 13:49:06

This may not help your current (hah!) situation, but I'd recommend using a [url="http://www.starbrite.com/sproductdetail.cfm?ID=1502"]Corrosion Buster Pen[/url] in the future when cleaning contacts. It's made of fiberglass bristles that pretty easily clean away corrosion and crud from your contacts. If you've already scraped the connections to a diameter less than what will easily connect well, it might be worth your time to replace them.

I have no experience with conductive grease, so I'll let others weigh in on it.

FWIW, when I make up my connections, I heat shrink with hot-melt glue as much as I can, and wrap with self-fusing tape what I can't. It works pretty well to keep the connection water-tight, preventing or at least mitigating the corrosion.

Edit: So I went out and poked around on the web and kept coming across [url="http://www.sanchem.com/aSpecialE.html"]Sanchem NO OX ID[/url] being recommended by a number of folks in various professions. As stated above, I have no experience with this stuff, but it sounds like it might do the trick for you. It also sounds like it'd work well for coating bolts in hardware of different materials to keep them from corroding.

Edited by - delliottg on 06/12/2012 14:00:41

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2012 : 06:15:33

Yepper .. John that conductive grease would probably be my choice, but it will not hold up if the deck connection can get moisture down into it. Usually saltwater running down the line connector.

I used the Catalina Direct deck connector and I really like the design.
Good solid screws and capture holes.

http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=205

What you want is a good tight connection to the wire, by grabbing the wires with a big set of pliers and twisting the wire really well and then cut the wire off flush. Put some grease on it and push it into the capture hole and then tighten down the screw tighter than you think. Put polysulfide on the wires and screw down the fitting cover, and then push polysulfide into the outside of the wires at the sleeve..

Your polysulfide "calk" is also attempting to keep everything from moving as well as seal it.

ANyhoo.. that's what I did and I'll let you know how long it holds up.. It you are wiring for the first time leave extra wire to give you room to rewire the fitting every few years. Mine is Ugly, but it is working now.. and yepper.. you need it to work. New mast wiring harness from CD going into the fitting from the top.

New 14-4 coming in from the bottom

And yepper... I'd put that grease on the pins.

Edited by - redeye on 06/13/2012 06:25:30

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2012 : 06:45:19

We would use the grease on the fittings when screwing down the connection at the fuse box but not on each circuit. Prevents corrosion.

I'm not sure how well it would work on the deck fitting in a marine environment, if it would cause a short between each prong, so I would be pretty stingy with it. I would think a little would go a long way.

Might work better than duck tape.

ANyhoo... Good luck.

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.