Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hey everyone, I just bought a '77 Catalina 25 and cant believe how helpful this forum has been.
Would anybody have any guidance on the specifics of how I go about sealing a leaky stanchion or anything similar in design that also leaks? Im pretty well versed in general handy-work but at the same time its a new world for me so I dont want to leave out any important elements of the process.
My port stanchion closest to the cockpit has a fairly steady leak and its becoming a problem when I try to spray down the boat. Im not even sure how bad it gets when raining.
AS Tomas suggests, a search on bedding hardware will probably give you more hits than you will read. The summary is: remove the fitting and look in the hole. You will probably see the wood core, meaning that the job hasn't been done properly. Drill the hole a bit size larger and remove some core. Seal the surface of the newly exposed wood with liquid epoxy. Fill the space between the inner and outer skins where you removed core and the entire hole with thickened epoxy. After it fully cures, re-drill the appropriate sized hole through the epoxy and bevel the edges, Apply bedding compound and reassemble. Polysulfide is the product for most applications; the fasteners should be snug, but not tight. After it cures for four or five days, tighten the fasteners fully. Butyl tape has good and bad features - do your homework. Do not use silicone, and especially, don't use polyurethanes. Polyurethanes are powerful adhesives that will cause damage when you must remove that fitting again, they are not bedding compounds! Do the search and you will find lots of info.
Sam, I see you are in Los Angeles so you will probably not be experiencing any meaningful rainfall until Oct - Nov. If you intend to get any use out of the boat this summer I would not take on the advanced approach (drill, fill, redrill, caulk) until late fall. If you have a suspect stanchion you can tackle that one with some sort of sealant and still take advantage of the summer sailing season. For sure tackle any safety issues but maintenance and cosmetic improvements can wait for those times when your sailing is not compromised.
Sam, I too am the proud new owner of a '77. Hull 138. I rebedded all of the stantions (and the damn windows) for the same reason. Look under maintenance at West Marine for "bedding compound". I removed the hardware and used a clamped in place shop vac to suck/blow air through and dry things out real well prior to re-sealing and bedding. I also read a great suggestion somewhere about contersinking each hole so that it will better accommodate the b. compound.
Polysulfide forms a lightly adhesive gasket that will remain flexible for a decade or more. Beveling reduces local stress and, as noted, compresses the gasket into the bevel or countersunk cone as it is fully tightened for a better seal. It can also be tightened more later on if it starts to leak. Countersink is a better description of what I was visualizing.
From experience, a suggestion for beveling (countersinking, or champfering) the hole with an electric drill: Put a larger bit in the electric drill and put the drill in <i>reverse</i>. In forward, even a variable-speed drill will tend to grab in the fiberglass and suddenly cut much deeper than you want.
Polysulfide (Boatlife Life Caulk) is indeed the best general-purpose bedding compound, except for bedding plastic hardware--for that, Boatlife Life Seal is the best I know of. Most 3M caulks are polyurethane, of varying adhesive tenacity--I avoid them. Unfortunately, the builder of my current boat apparently didn't. 3M 5200 is for structural sealing, such as in the hull-deck or hull-keel joint. I wish West Marine would eliminate it from their product line, or the federal government would ban it without a prescription (from a marine architect).
I basically finger-tighten the nuts so just little caulk squeezes out (but most doesn't), let the caulk cure for a few days, and then tighten down against the gasket the caulk has created. Excess polysulfide is easy to remove around the edges after it sets up--don't try to wipe if off earlier.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.