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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have to replace my trailer brake actuator due to extensive corrosion of the master cylinder assembly. My current actuator is made by Tie Down Engineering. Although I could replace the master cylinder assembly, I would like to change to a different brand that has better corrosion protection (or at least easy access to the master cylinder to be able to flush it after launch). We launch in salt water every time we sail, and the actuator is submerged each time because of the extending tongue.
The actuator capacity needs to be a minimum of 7,000 lbs. and be suitable for tandem axles with disc brakes on all four wheels. I welcome opinions and experience about actuator brands and model numbers to use – and what not to use.
Thanks, Don
2007 C250 WK, #911 Road King Trailer Camarillo, California
Don, we replaced our actuator this year, not for the same reasons, our trailer only had disc brakes on one of the tandem axles and we upgraded it to have discs on both axles (new axles, new brakes and new actuator)
We don't dip the actuator (Water ballast) but we do rinse the trailer after every dunk. As the marina we use has turned off the water, we're now carrying a garden spray with water/salt remove chemical.
Our plan is to spray the trailer after each dunk, carrying enough chemical to refill and spray for the retrieval dunk.
Paul, Do you know what brand and model of actuator you have, and are your disc brakes the same brand? I'm also planning to use a sprayer like you mentioned. What chemical are you planning to use? Don
I use electric brakes with a proportioner from tekonsha and I am pretty happy with it. My trailer came with an actuator that was busted and PO installed electric brakes. I can´t complain.
Frank, From my research (online and at boat ramps), the DICO 10 (now called Titan Model 10) seems quite popular. Has your's had any corrosion problems?
David, The Atwood looks like good possibility. I've seen them, and they have an open bottom which should make flushing easy. Any idea about its corrosion resistance, especially the master cylinder parts (exposed piston rod, spring, etc.)?
My '82 had a trail rite under it with the Dico 10, it is designed to rebuild which makes it a good log term choice to me. Brake components reflect the owner, most of us allow them to fall into disrepair regardless of their design. I did put electrics under my '89 and believe electrics are the way to go if possible.
Paul, I've heard lots of good things about Kodiak brakes, I hope to upgrade to them in the future.
Jean & Frank, I don't know much about electric brakes. Are you speaking about fully electric -- i.e., electric drum brakes with an electric actuator operated from the tow vehicle? Jean, the Tekonsha looks like it is for fully electric? If so, I thought those systems didn't like water. Since I already have hydraulic disc brakes at the wheels, I probable will want to keep them.
If you are talking about electric over hydraulic, what does one need to know to make the conversion? Any issues with using in salt water? Can you point me to any websites that have good info about this?
easternmarine.com and study up. Having redone a hydraulic set on the '82 I knew how much work that was and for me changing over to electric on my '89 was easier. Of course they say you can ramp launch with them but I use a crane so it was not a concern for me anyway. The increase in road control with a traditional electric brake set up was huge for me. The ability to use the brakes independent of the vehicle brakes is great.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.