Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm sure this question has been asked and addressed but I'll ask it one more time for perhaps new ideas or member input. Here gos... I have a 2002 wb250 and the dealer sold me a high thrust, 4 stroke Yamaha 9.9 long shaft. Love the engine when away from docking area (great power and speed)but with the small engine slot design of the catalina 250, the engine must be locked in place making docking in tight quarters tricky to say the least. Now that my slip has been relocated I'm really dealing with a difficult situation. I've always admired Arlyns soft link, but the 9.9 is just to large. Does anyone have a possible solution? I was told by a non 250 sailer to put a rear mounted outer bracket on to push the engine out away from the rear end thus allow for turn room, but I think that extended outward weight could become an issue. ANY SUGGESTIONS??? Thanks. Tropical Sleigh wb250 Sarasota FL
If you haven't already, go to the top of the screen & use the search function and look up "outboard bracket" in the 250 Forum. It should bring up 4-5 threads on this subject. I have a 2001 250WK with a Honda 8hp XLS and had ordered the fixed mount outboard bracket when I ordered the boat. In one of those threads, I posted a picture of it. It works great. I will look & see if I have any other pictures of it and will post them when I find them.
Hey Jerry, for some odd reason I can't seem to open your pictures in this thread or in past threads. I sent you an email. Reading past threads makes me wonder if I'm the only 250 owner who bought a yamaha 9.9. That outboard bracket is an interesting idea, but I wonder if there will be enough room still for that darn motor tiller handle.
The Honda will yield a full port turn but only about half the starboard turn as the motor tiller contacts the fuel locker. I don't find it much problem.
And, the soft link will still work as the starboard turn uses the bungee for that turn so not stopping the rudder.
Arlyn C-250 W/B #224 R&R N/E Texas and Great Lakes
I've got a 2002 WB and this has been the only compaint I've had with the boat. I've got an '02 Honda 9.9 and it's just too damn big for the limited space between the fuel locker and the gunwhale.
I've not yet found it enough of a problem to warrant adding the "outboard" outboard bracket. I'd be concerned about the flex of the the transom with that heavy motor hanging out and away from it when trailering and I don't want to unship the motor each time I trailer the boat.
My solution thus far is to plan ahead in my marina maneuvering by keeping in reserve my ability to swing the motor to port only ( as Arlyn pointed out). In other words, three left turns make a right turn! <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> Not real seamanlike (I know I've caught you laughing at me, Derek!) but it works. It's not really a factor unless the wind is blowing from the wrong direction.
Bren Peterson C250WB, #642, "Ruah" San Antonio, TX
I've been mulling over this whole limited space thing, and I thought of a possible solution (aside from the bracket). As I've stated in the past I have a 9.9 Yamaha. If the engine didn't have that control tiller resting along side the fuel locker a starboard turn would be easier to achieve(port is good now). With this burning thought I called a local Yamaha dealer and was informed it's possible to remove the arm and then connect a control box for the controls in a choice location. This would provide about another inch and a half of space, making a starboard turn easier to achieve. Anyone ever hear of such a plan? Tropical Sleigh wb619
Hi Guys, My slip on The Great Sacandaga Lake faces out on the lake, not to well protected from northerly winds. I have the 8 H.P. Honda four stroke with a bracket that sticks out about ten inches. What I have found is backing the boat into the slip useing the motor and tiller together [no soft link]. This does work well and when single handed sailing lets me grab the dock with the boat hook from the cockpit. Doing this also eliminates the wave "slap" at the back of the boat when docked with the stern faceing out. Anybody else tried this? "Bear" on C250 WB "Really on the hard" in upstate N.Y.
I also have the Honda 8 and the bracket as you can see above. The bracket does move the engine back far enough so that the blade will not hit the rudder.
I have trailed the boat over 200 miles with the motor attached and have not had any problems with the mount.
Rochester - As you can see, I do not have a tiller arm on my motor (All controls are on the pedestal). The only problem I have, and it is minor, in turning the motor, is that the "Shift Cables" are a little stiff and that makes it a "little bit" harder to turn the motor manually. But having all the controls at the pedestal far outweighs that minor problem!
Just checking, is anyone else having a problem not seeing the pictures above? I just want to make sure I did it right ! <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>
Bren, I can move mine to starboard also, but only about 20 degrees and then the casting for the tiller arm hits the fuel locker. To accomplish the 20 degrees, the motor has to be shifted fully towards starboard which may require an addition to the backing plate.
If I had guts...I would hack saw off part of the casting to the tiller arm...<img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>
Arlyn C-250 W/B #224 R&R N/E Texas and Great Lakes
Guys...my aux is a '98 evinrude 4cycle 8hp and it's wide (however I don't know how it compares to the honda). I don't think the soft link would work for me because of the width. I also have a fairly tight slip. I offset the engine slightly to starboard and that seems to give enough turn although not full capacity for the motor. I haven't found it a problem. The boat manuvers nicely on the rudder alone...if I need to manuver tightly, I use a combination of motor turn, forward-reverse and the rudder. I dont like the idea of hanging the motor way off the stern. Hey.. inboards (not saildrives) gotta manuver on the rudder alone... we're all spoiled! Andy Anderson C250WB #163 MHYC McCall Idaho
Get out your hacksaw or better yet your side grinder. When I added your softlink to my C250 WK, I was disappointed in the turn range of my Nissan 9.9 hp. My boat did not have a 'power wand' because I had Pedestal mounted controls but the motor did have brackets that interferred with steering.
I took the motor off and used a side grinder to cut off all protruding interferences. The side grinder easily cut the aluminum brackets and it was easy to smooth the cuts by rounding over the cut areas. These parts of my motor were aluminum and I do not believe anyone would ever notice that I had cut the pieces off.
It was an easy job that took less than 15 minutes and made my Nissan 9.9 able to rotate more than I would ever need. Prior to cutting, my starboard turn was limited to maybe 20 degrees (maybe 10) it is now at least 45.
Thanks again for your softlink idea. Made my boat what I wanted. Cut off anything that is not needed but limits the range of motion of your ouboard.
Hi. I'm in the process of converting a 9.9 hp evenrude to pedestal control. The long awaited backordered kit I need is winging its way to my dealer as we speak, after a short 6 month wait. My question to those of you with pedestal controls, where do the cables enter the boat and what was used to make the entrance water tight(resistent?).A picture or drawing or better yet , aplace to purchase the part would really help. Thanks, Tony
If someone dosen't have a better picture of this I will take a few tomorrow while I'm at the boat and post them on Sunday.
As for where to buy the rubber inlet, I'm not sure. West Marine should carry it.
I thought the c250 came from the factory with the inlet already installed. If you have pedistal controls or not, the cable that connects to the battery still goes in the same place.
I expect that dealers route the pedastal controls after the boat is delivered.
My Year 2000 C250WK has pedestal controls. The cables arc around the front of the motor and enter the boat through an acordian like rubber grommet on the transom. Works fine, I think I like the way Bryan's installation looks better.
Looking at the detailed photo, I think I like my dealers solution better after all. My cables turn a tight radius around the front of the motor then curve again to enter the boat through the transom.
I think that when I stand to rotate my motor, my feet are where the cables are in the photo.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.