Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Had some water in the bilge after rain but wasn't sure where it was comig from. Left a booklet on the cuttingboard on the port side and it was. wet after a rain. Ordered the repair kit from CD. Wish me luck.
There are several potential leaky areas as noted above. One of my stanchions leaked, as well as one bolt that holds the grab rain on the cabintop. I removed the stanchion and ground out the holes, then filled with epoxy and drilled new holes. I rebedded and sealed the bolts and stanchion base with polysulfide. On the rail, I removed the bolt and resealed the rail bottom and the bolt with polysulfide. Stopped the leaks. To identify where the leaks are coming from, get a water-based felt tip marker (flair pen) and draw a line in several potential leaky locations. Wait until it rains (in some places you could be waiting a loooooong time) and check out where the drips ran across the pen marks. That should be able to tell you a lot.
Agree with checking out the fasteners in the cabin top for the wood rail. Those nuts may have a drop or two on them and that would be an indicator. But just tightening them a bit or sealing around the rail in that area from the outside if that stops the leak then you know it is coming from the rail/rail fastener and may want to think about rebedding it or just leave the sealant on it.
You could always turn on the hose full blast and shoot it at the window. If you get a stream inside that will tell you if you need to replace it. If however it comes in through the cabin top hardware, then you've narrowed it down considerably.
I'm faced with the same issues as I think most C25 owners are. I hope to resolve the leaks this season because I'm having the cushions re-covered this winter and the last thing I want is watter dripping on the new ones. Do you have access to a hose at your slip? Th PO of my boat installed a pump and hose off the fresh water tank so that is going to be my approach. I'm planning to hose isolated areas and look for the leaks this weekend. Good luck with yours.
I read somewhere that another way to check for leaks is with the companionway boards in place to seal off with duct tape as many openings as you can such as the vent area on the compionway boards and then using a shop vac insert the hose into a Nicro vent opening or elsewhere and seal off the excess opening. Then turn on the shop vac causing a positive pressure in the cabin. Using soap and water, go over all the fittings, rails, etc and see if any bubbles are present. That is one way to determine leak areas.
I have never tried this but it would seem tat even if you do not seal off all openings perfectly, there is enough positive pressure to see bubbles exiting ot and yet not enough air pressure that it would damage anything. You may be just the person willing to go to this route and if you do, I would be curious how it turns out spotting leak paths !
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Left a booklet on the cuttingboard on the port side and it was. wet after a rain.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> This one's easy....Move the booklet
You can also make a line with some type of marker that will wash away with water along the inside of the boat under areas you suspect of leaking. This worked for me.
I think glass is best. I have never heard a complaint about glass windows, but have seen many variations of ugly with PG or lexan replacements.
The only exception to this rule is the guys who replace all 3 windows with one sheet of black-out lexan. That can turn out really well, but I am nervous about long-term survivability. At one time I was gung ho to go that way on my boat, but I have since backed off.
When I had the glass out, I used "spot-X", found on the inet, to remove the water spots. Worked pretty well, I recommend it. pain to get the glass back in the "u" molding, pur it in wood vise and pressed the frame down from the top, helped.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.