Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have the 7-17 twist lock and one of the cams aren't locking. I'd like to try and take it apart to clean it up. Are the ends glued together or something? If I remove them, will I have problems putting them back on?
1989 C-25 TR/WK #5894 Miss Behavin' Sittin' in LCYC on Canyon Lake, Texas
I'll be watching for answers. I have 7-17 whisker pole sitting in my shed missing the smallest extension. It was lost on a particularly blustery day while trying to do a take down as rounding a mark. Long story short it pulled out and eventually came off the sheet. So you can probably just pull the extensions apart. I keep meaning to get a replacement section but have been doing fine with the 15 foot one Forespar makes now. You should just email Forespar your question. They are good on replying.
Jonathan, the sections pull apart with a little persuasion. Forespar sells a replacement kit for the locking clutches but it's a bit tricky to install.
Wow, it must take a LOT of persuasion. I spent last night trying to pull it apart and then was worried because I had a hard time getting it to compress back again. lol I didn't know how it came apart and didn't want to break anything. I'll try pulling a little harder. Thanks!
I saw the kit for $33 at WM. If I can't fix what I have, then I'll purchase the kit.
Woohoo! So I gave the faulty section a good yank to free the end where the cam is located. My guess was that the cam was "rounded out" from age. So, I took a piece of thick wire, shoved it behind the cam's big side to thicken it up, then put it back together. It's now just tight enough to keep the pole from compressing. Saved $40. :)
My pole is about 3" shorter after I squared up the fitting ends with a chop saw. Fresh rivet holes could then be drilled eliminating wobbling ends. This is where you started, right?
Grind off the rivets, remove the fittings, and slide the sections apart. For visualization and project planning for those doing this job, the cam is a two piece plastic part with one half fitting the inside circumference of the pole and the other half is the cam (a rubber ring is stretched over the cam for grip). The non-cam side is held to the aluminum pole with four awl punches. After 30 years of twist lock actions (or perhaps a few gorilla strength twists) the non-cam side plastic was no longer fitted to the punches. I was almost certain I'd crack the aged plastic with four hammer blows, but had no problem. It was nice to clean up the rubber cam and pole interior of powdery aluminum oxide. Some old blue tape fell out off the poles in this process, I later found this to be a part of the $40 rebuild kit (index mark to prevent hyperextension?).
For some folks, you aren't just saving $40 on a rebuild kit, but eliminating the neurotic temptation to apply that $40 towards an upgrade to the latest-greatest downwind device. Spending under a buck on a rebuild is easily satisfying to everyone. Parts list is rivets. Minimum tool list is twist drill to remove old rivets, hammer and punching awl, and rivet tool.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.