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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Wiring the trailer lights

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tmhansen
Captain

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USA
397 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/21/2003 : 01:51:39

I need to rewire the lights to my trailer. The trailer will be used in salt water. I am wondering about the best way to wire the many marker lights down the side of the boat.

Option 1: Use piggyback (interlocks) connectors and silicon caulk

Option 2: Use three way connectors and silicon caulk to splice in each light.

Option 3: Use heat shrink waterproof connectors, oversize to allow two wires to be spliced into one side.

Option 4: Use step down connectors and silicon. Shrink tube over all

Should I run a direct wire back to the tail lights and a second wire for the marker lights, so that in the event of a broken connection the tail lights will still work?

Your opinions please.

Todd Hansen
San Luis Obispo, CA

Edited by - tmhansen on 01/21/2003 01:53:44

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 01/21/2003 : 10:02:22

It sounds as if you're interested in doing a good job.

IMHO stuff follows.

I think the real key to a good marine wiring job (no matter what connectors you have), is using tinned wire.. plain copper wire will corrode and start coming apart with exposure to salt water.

The very best approach is to 'home run' all the wires to a waterproof junction box near the head of the trailer... (no splices at all) but that may be just a wee bit of over-kill for a boat trailer.

To do it as 'proper-n-practical' I'd use the above-mentioned tinned wire and solder all the connections.. cover with sealant and then heat shrink over that.

With a little practice and one of those little 'micro torch' soldering tools you can solder darn near as fast as you can crimp. With this method, the wiring should last beyond the lifetime of the trailer.

My second choice would be 2 into 1 crimp with silicone caulk and heat shrink over that.

Running the rear lights in a separate feed is a good idea no matter what else you do... more reliable and makes any troubleshooting easier.

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 01/21/2003 : 23:06:34

Todd,

To directly answer the question you asked, I'd suggest splicing using options #3 or #4 involving hot-glue filled heatshrink tube. Or, as ClamBeach mentioned, wire in each light using a home run to a sealed electrical box, maybe up on the winch pedistal.

My own approach to trailer light reliability is to keep the lights and wiring out of the water.

On my previous boat trailers, I made up what I called a "removable light bar". I started with a K-Mart generic boat trailer rewire kit consisting of two tail light assemblies and a 4-conductor harness a bit longer than the boat and trailer. I mounted the lights on the ends of a piece of 2x4 lumber (pressure treated optional) and wired them to the harness. I then tied the 2x4 light bar across the transom for towing. I looped, tied, bungy corded, or just tangled the wires along the boat and trailer up to the hitch. I removed that entire trailer wiring system before launching, and reattached it after retrieving.

To modify that plan for a Catalina 25 sized trailer, I would add a second light bar for the forward amber clearance lights. I'd connect both light bars to the 4-conductor harness using the usual readily available flat-4 trailer wiring connectors. That way, the lighting system quickly separates into three pieces for convenient assembly or storage.

A lot of the local fishermen who use those goalpost guides to center their boat on the trailer have the lights installed up on the posts above the waterline.

(<i>Wimpy disclaimer</i>: My C-25 trailer lights keep working because of the method I actually use to launch my boat. Once a year I have the boat lifted on and off its trailer at a marina. That way there's no saltwater on the truck or trailer, and I don't have to own a truck big enough to drag the whole rig up a steep slippery ramp. I only need enough truck to pull it a few miles down the road.<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>)

-- Leon Sisson

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