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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Swing Keel Painting

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Gull Lake CAT 25
Deckhand

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USA
5 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/09/2012 : 08:18:39

I purchased a 77 Cat 25 this past September. It is a fresh water boat. One of the items I am doing before it goes back in the water next spring is having new bottom paint done. Painting of the keel is part of that. From reading some data I have found it looks like removal of the keel for painting would be a major undertaking due to weight (1500 lbs?).
Can anyone tell me the make up of the keel? It has quite a bit of rusted areas so needs either sand blasting or a lot of wire brush activity. Is the keel a thin walled steel where we could puncture it with too much removal? Best process for doing this?

Thanks for your input.

Dan Buzz
Gull Lake

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 12/09/2012 : 08:32:27

No, it's solid iron or steel. From what I understand it's not uncommon to have to grind or wire brush the keel to clean up the rusted areas

Others can chime in on the methods to use to get the best results.

Edited by - GaryB on 12/09/2012 08:38:16

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 12/09/2012 : 08:59:21

It's 1500 pounds of cast iron.

Edited by - on

Tim M
1st Mate

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60 Posts

Response Posted - 12/09/2012 : 21:18:08

I ground some rust off about five years ago, painted all exposed iron with POR15 and then bottom paint and it's been fine ever since in saltwater use.

Edited by - on

Frank Law
Navigator

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USA
159 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2012 : 12:01:10

Dropping the Keel can be done and a number of us have done it..I don't know how you would do it if you are on a trailer . If you are on Jack stands , I made a wooden framework that allowed the forward end of the keel to be lowered but kept vertically in place as the keel was lowered using the "all thread rod method " .. The aft end of the keel was controlled by the lifting cable..I also used a jack under the keel to make raising and lowering the keel easier , but still using the rods

Frank Law
"ABOUT TIME"
1983 3519
swk sr

Edited by - on

JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2012 : 13:18:43

There's no need to remove the swing keel to paint it. Use a steel brush or a right-angle paint scraper to remove the loose paint and rust, then sand it as smooth as you choose and apply the bottom paint.

It's important not to breathe any of the dust - It's toxic. For all of your work when scraping, grinding, or sanding the bottom, you will need to get a good quality respirator. (Not just a dust mask.) I also like to set up a table fan to blow any dust away from my work area. My marina uses a cloth under each boat that is placed on stands out of the water, in order to catch and later dispose safely of the dust and dirt.

A respirator is also critical to use if you need to drill or cut some area of fiberglass on your boat. The fiberglass dust is also toxic and causes silicosis if breathed. I like to cover myself from head to toe with clothing and goggles for this dirty work, and carefully clean those items separately from other laundry after the job.

If you have the job done by professionals, then the workers should know how to protect themselves.

Edited by - JohnP on 12/10/2012 13:20:29

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2012 : 15:34:32

If you do decide to remove the keel you might look into soda blasting to quickly get it down to bare metal. It's quick and relatively inexpensive if you shop around. As soon as they are done blasting it (like immediately - don't wait a couple of hours) you will need to paint the entire keel with POR15 to prevent it from rusting. Then fair out the bad spots and paint with your favorite bottom paint.

Edited by - GaryB on 12/10/2012 15:35:05

BCG-Woodbury
Mainsheet Editor

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USA
396 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2012 : 19:03:45

I did mine this summer and took it down to bare metal with a needle scaler. Do wear hearing protection because the sound bounce of the hull like crazy. I lowered mine as much as possible to get most of it. Once cleaned, I sprayed it with some water to encourage a like coat. The rust converter paint I used (Chassis Saver) adheres better to a little rust and soaks into dry rust nicely. I put on 2 coats and scuffed it in between woth coarse ScotchBrite. After the second coat, I scuffed it, cleaned it with the Interlux Thinner/Solvent, and applied a few coats of Interlux ACT to it and the rest of the prepped hull. At haulout, the keel and hull both looked great.

Regards,

Edited by - on

Gull Lake CAT 25
Deckhand

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USA
5 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2012 : 07:43:12

WOW, Thanks to all of you for your input!

Edited by - on

sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 12/13/2012 : 18:59:55

For better or worse (I don't know), I think you can do this with a lot less work. Catalina recommends Rustoleum as a primer before applying antifouling paint. Rustoleum can be applied over rust.

When I did mine this summer, I did not take it all the way down to bare metal everywhere because I discovered the casting on my keel was terrible: air holes and pockets, gouges, etc. It had lots of filler to make it fair.

Someone at Catalina told me they always imagined a couple of guys melting down old engine blocks on a beach in Mexico to cast the keels. My keel had M E X I C O stamped into the cast, and considering the poor casting, maybe that's not too far from the truth.

So I sanded off as much rust as I could do relatively easily with a rotary sander. A grinding disk proved too harsh because of all of the filler. I did have some pockets of rust (that looked like marine growths) and discovered some rust pockets forming beneath the surface of the cast iron. I ground these out and filled them in with Bondo fiberglass filler. I did not remove every last bit of rust.

I used an organic solvent to remove all the dust. I applied two coats of Rustoleum primer from a spray can, then my antifouling paint.

I remember seeing primers and also some bottles designed for marine use, if that's more your speed.

I'll be hauling out again in the spring and will try to remember to report back if I have any rust issues.

Edited by - sethp001 on 12/13/2012 19:01:03

KiteKraemer
Navigator

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191 Posts

Response Posted - 12/14/2012 : 15:10:43

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by JohnP
 There's no need to remove the swing keel to paint it. Use a steel brush or a right-angle paint scraper to remove the loose paint and rust, then sand it as smooth as you choose and apply the bottom paint.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I agree, I've done this every 2 years, a big freakin pain, but I can sleep like a baby at night.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 12/24/2012 : 18:13:48

<center>Swing Keel Refurb</center>
For what it's worth, here are links to some of my notes regarding swing keel work.

Catalina 25 Swing Keel Refurbishing Procedure: [[url="http://sailincat.com/boating/C25_proj/C25_sk_refurb.htm"]SailinCat.com/boating/C25_proj/C25_sk_refurb.htm[/url]]

Catalina 25 Swing Keel Installation Notes - With Hull Supported On A Trailer Chassis: [[url="http://sailincat.com/boating/C25_proj/C25_sk_install.htm"]SailinCat.com/boating/C25_proj/C25_sk_install.htm[/url]]

My installation with boat on trailer might be reversible for removing a keel. I had mine dropped at a marina using a travel left and fork lift. I got the keel home using a borrowed pickup truck, and worked on it using 2-ton come-along in my garage.

Hope that helps. Good luck.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

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