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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
A while back, someone posted that they put in a teak and Holly sole into the cabin. I couldn't find it in the tech tips or the archives, so maybe it was on the old forum, but I still can't find it.
Does anyone know who it was, and secondly, has anyone else done this?
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Just info. You can purchase Teal/holly in plywood form 4'X8' sheets <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Just because I'm curious and have never seen plywood offered as you describe, do you happen to know who markets this plywood Doug?
Thanks for the info guys. BTW Duane, I have what Catalina now bills as teak/holly sole in my C250. It is a laminate instead of the real thing, but it looks good and is tough as nails. We have a 70 lb. Lab who spends a lot of time below. She tries to be a good sailor and stay on the high side of the boat during those 20 degree heels, but does mostly a clawing/sliding act to the low side. Not a scratch on the sole. Might want to consider that as an option. It is 1/4" thick poss. 3/8" and screwed down right on the fiberglass floor. I had to lift some of it up to run my depth gage wires. If you want a picture of it I might be going to the boat (I think it needs me) <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> this weekend.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Ray, I'd like to some pic's <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Sure Mark I'll see what I can get this weekend. Great just what I needed an excuse to go to the boat to help a fellow sailor.<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Doug, any idea on the cost for the 1/4" sheet?
<b>"I've found varying prices for 1/4" 4x8 all between 150 and 300. " - Duane</b>
Geez, Duane, at that website you mentioned, a sheet of teak and holly plywood is $136.00 for the 1/4" 4 x 8 sheet and the shipping is $115.00. Pretty pricey stuff. One thing to keep in mind when shopping for veneered wood is the thickness of the veneer layer(the thicker the better).
How would you go about attaching(screws, adhesives) the plywood to the cabin sole, isn't it curved?
I wonder if a product, like Pergo flooring, would work in a boat. Maintenance free, impervious to moisture, and indestructable are pretty good qualities in a floor.
Don Lucier, 'North Star' C25 SR/FK Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie
[<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Geez, Duane, at that website you mentioned, a sheet of teak and holly plywood is $136.00 for the 1/4" 4 x 8 sheet and the shipping is $115.00. Pretty pricey stuff. One thing to keep in mind when shopping for veneered wood is the thickness of the veneer layer(the thicker the better).
How would you go about attaching(screws, adhesives) the plywood to the cabin sole, isn't it curved? <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> This is all a pipe-dream right now…I don’t know if I have the time or inclination to do this, but I think it would look good when finished..
I am lucky that the website I linked to is only about 45 minutes away, so I don't have to worry about shipping. Incidently, that was also the cheapest price I've found it thus far.
As for attachment, I have done some web research and talked to a number of guys in the business. It is pretty much agreed that I would need to use screws and adhesive. Here is what I am thinking:
First get the area traced with cardboard. I have the McDonalds booth style interior, (never could remember if that’s dinette or traditional) so I would do the area under the table as a separate piece. Secondly, anything forward of the bulkhead might be difficult, plus there is a lip there so that will be a separate piece. I would probably do that in a 1/8th inch ply. Though they claim the ¼” bends quite well. The last piece would be the cabin floor and galley area. That would be one piece.
After I traced those three locations, I would move toward making a template out of some really cheap plywood. The stuff is only about 5 bucks a sheet so if it were to take a few times to get it right it would be worth the practice. Cutting once measuring 4 or five times. After I was absolutely positive that these pieces were cut perfectly, I would cut the expensive stuff.
On the sole of the cabin I have 3 inspection plates since there was some major water seepage through windows, and the rub-rail in the past, so I would need to pull those up as well as pull up the stairs in the companionway. Then, after cleaning it with 202, and probably getting high in the process from the fumes, I would seal the edges with a urethane and install the pieces using liquid nails. Then put the old plywood templates on top, then cinder blocks for weight and let her dry.
The companion way stairs would be screwed back in, along with the inspection plates and then, using finishing washers and nice stainless screws, I would put a bunch of screws along the lip of the table area and another line along the bulkhead.
Next step would be caulk then edges, and then cover the caulk with molding….Total cost would be around 250 bucks… If I find the right price on the wood. Total number of swear words between Harvey and Myself to complete the project…276 Heres a site that I got a little inspiration from ….. http://www.geocities.com/buccaneersailboats2/floor.html
Don, Forget Pergo, it isn't impervious to moisture. It must be installed over a 6 mil plastic moisture barrier to keep from delaminating and warping, and that's on a concrete slab. Think of it as particleboad. Here's a quote from their warranty
"Warranty does not apply to other damage, including water damage caused by flooding, standing water (water that remains on the floor for more than 30 minutes), leaking pipes, household mechanical failures, appliance leaks or damage caused by water underneath the flooring, including damage from subfloor hydrostatic pressure (water under the floor that is transmitted to the surface through exerted pressure) or other conditions that result in water being below the flooring."
I did a quick look on Google. The plywood here near me is $133.50 a 4X8 sheet. I also checked Florida it almost the same at 155.50 and thats without shoping around. 1/4" one sided 4X8'
Duane why not call Catalina and see what they are using now and how much & if they would sell it to you? It wasn't a very expensive option for me when we purchased the boat. Earl has a good point about moisture. I would have that same concern about the plywood. My sole gets pretty wet around the companionway from time to time and whatever Catalina is using is pretty resistant to the types of water damage mentioned by Earl.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Ok,...forget that idea. I thought it was. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Come to think of it I thought they advertised pergo as a good application for basements because it could get wet.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.