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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Nice table work

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britinusa
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Initially Posted - 03/06/2013 : 04:54:54

I was browsing through the Photo Gallery and found this Album showing the mod to the [url="https://www.catalina-capri-25s.net/cgi-local/MBR_gallery.cgi?Album+2166+93"]C25 Table[/url]. I must admit, it's a really nice table that could not be done in a C250.

Still looking at modifying my modified table on JD, far too much hassle setting it up as it is now.

Paul

Joint Decision. (Sold)
PO C250WB 2005 Sail # 841.

Moved up to C34 Eximius

Updated August 2015

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redeye
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Response Posted - 03/06/2013 : 07:13:51

I keep looking at that project. The thing I keep getting stumped on is the hinge sticking up all the way down the middle of the table. It disrupts my Mexican Train.

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britinusa
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Response Posted - 03/06/2013 : 07:46:58

I don't think the Hinge pin can be above the Table cut!

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The player who has the 12-12 begins the first game by placing it in the centre of the table.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Paul

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redeye
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Response Posted - 03/06/2013 : 12:19:26

<>

My piano hinge that runs the top of the table in the middle farward to aft sticks up a little above the table top. I've gotta look at some flush hinges..

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redeye
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Response Posted - 03/06/2013 : 12:21:02

I'm lookin at pine, but it is so hard to stain pine dark without getting an ugly mustard.

Might have to leave it light.

Edited by - redeye on 03/06/2013 12:21:20

glivs
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Response Posted - 03/06/2013 : 17:51:43

staining pine - apply a coat of MinWax Sanding Sealer....designed specifically to solve the variable porosity of softwoods

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TakeFive
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Response Posted - 03/07/2013 : 17:41:40

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by glivs
 staining pine - apply a coat of MinWax Sanding Sealer....designed specifically to solve the variable porosity of softwoods
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
+1 On a previous house I had to stain brand new pine trim to match some birch cabinets. I got the stain from the cabinet maker, but was very concerned about the soft pine ending up with a much darker color. I tried Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner followed by the stain on a test piece and it was perfect.

As for the table project on the C250, I'll put in a pitch for my table mod that I did last winter. (May not be compatible with some water ballast boats.) It really has been the single biggest improvement I've made, because access to all the storage (forward V-berth and under settees) has been dramatically improved. We can now sleep in the A-berth without hitting our heads or feet.

Two years ago I left the table off the boat all season because it was such a nuisance. Now I wouldn't consider being without it.

I uploaded these before you had your album, and I don't have time to re-upload, so here are some pics using the "old method":

<center>

</center>

Edited by - TakeFive on 03/08/2013 05:57:39

DaveR
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Response Posted - 03/07/2013 : 17:56:05

Beautiful job Rick!

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britinusa
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Response Posted - 03/07/2013 : 20:00:38

<center>[url="https://www.catalina-capri-25s.net/cgi-local/MBR_gallery.cgi?Album+1000+107"]

Ricks Table[/url]
Really nice table mod</center>

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redeye
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Response Posted - 03/08/2013 : 04:55:35

<< Sanding Sealer....designed specifically to solve the variable porosity of softwoods >>

Interesting.. I've always used a sanding sealer to prevent the poly, or varnish, or whatever else I'm finishing with from being soaked up into the wood and then needing excessive coats. Also to as as a filler, and then you sand the soft sanding sealer rather than the wood. I've never thought os it as a way to alter the stain, as we usually put the stain on first, spraying it on with a gun.

Anyhoo... I've never stained pine much and the few times I have it turned mustard. I normally leave it unstained and the best result was unstained with varnish.. really pretty and did not darken at all. Polyurethane alone even darkened. I did like the results from cetol, stayed pretty light and I was kinda surprised.

I've got a bench and shelves I'm finishing now, pine, and I'll try some stain on it after the sanding sealer.

Still not finding a way to make pine look good when you try to make it look like a dark wood. I guess I'll have to try some more stains on test pieces. So weird how they can change color in the process.. I had a peice of some kind of african tiger wood that went pink when I stained it, but after the coats of poly it looks good, a nice brown color.

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Ape-X
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Response Posted - 03/08/2013 : 04:57:28

Very nicely done Rick! Esp. with a veneer.

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redeye
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Response Posted - 03/08/2013 : 05:07:01

<>

That's a perfect color..

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TakeFive
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Response Posted - 03/08/2013 : 05:56:41

I need to clarify my prior advice.

The product I used to pre-treat the pine was NOT sanding sealer. It was called Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. It does not require any sanding at all. You put it on like a clear oil, let it soak in (and dry, I think), then use your stain.

Sanding sealer has a different purpose, and is not needed if your objective is to get the stain to absorb evenly. Here's a pic of what the can I bought (20 years ago) looked like. If you click on the pic, it will link you to the Home Depot product, which has a redesigned label:

<center>[url="http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100376201?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=minwax+wood+conditioner&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=100376201#.UTnfm1eHfTo"]

[/url]</center>

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redeye
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Response Posted - 03/08/2013 : 07:29:17

Well I gotta admit.. The label pretty much tells it all. No questions there...

I wish some other wood products were better at that!

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glivs
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Response Posted - 03/08/2013 : 17:00:27

Rick nailed it...my apologies, sanding sealer is for "unstained wood" finishes

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