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 fair price C25 1986
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mycat
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/28/2013 :  09:53:03  Show Profile
I am new to the sailing world. I am looking at a C25 1986, fin keel, 4' draft, 2007 6 hp nissan outboard, vhf, radio, depthsounder, plotter, compass, autopilot, gps, high efficiency electric fans, 4 year old sails, cockpit cushions, swimming ladder, marine head, bimini, 3 sails (main, genoa and storm), 16# plow anchor, 16 fx fortress anchor, force 10 barbecue grill.Generally speaking the boat is in good shape. The asking price is $8995. What is a fair price for this boat?
Thank you for your input

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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2013 :  10:53:24  Show Profile
It seems that a well kept C25 of the year should be in that range. However, the 6hp outboard may be a bit small for anything other than an inland lake.

You should post this question in the C25 specific forum to get more replies:
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=3

The Capri 25 is not the same design as a C25
Oh, and welcome to the forum...


Edited by - Davy J on 03/28/2013 10:54:25
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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2013 :  10:54:36  Show Profile
Since you don't mention a trailer, I'll assume a trailer is not included. IMO, $8995. isn't an unreasonable <u>asking</u> price for a <u>well-equipped</u> 1986 C25 <u>in good condition</u>. That boat sounds like it is very well equipped. All the items on that equipment list would be very expensive, if you had to buy them separately. If the boat has been as well <u>maintained</u> as it has been equipped, it would be very desirable, if you can agree on a fair price. It's customary to start with an offer around 15-20% below the asking price, and negotiate from there. IMO, your offer should be in writing, and it should contain a provision that makes the deal contingent on a survey obtained at your expense, and that allows you to either renegotiate the price or to cancel the deal, if the survey reveals any defects or any conditions that are unsatisfactory to you. The purpose of the survey is to give you an opportunity to discover any defects that might not be immediately apparent. When the survey takes place, you should be there, and require that every piece of equipment be demonstrated, to be sure that it all works properly. Good luck!

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2013 :  12:53:08  Show Profile
You mean [url="http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1986/Catalina-25-2555483/Punta-Gorda/FL/United-States#.UVSblBysiSp"]this one[/url] in Punta Gorda?

6hp doesn't give you much margin of power going into strong wind and heavy chop in that size boat on the Gulf, but if it is an X-long (25") shaft, it'll push the boat--just working harder than the 8-10 hp most C-25 people here have. With that and no roller furler, I suspect that price is waiting to be negotiated down--I won't speculate on how much without seeing the boat and knowing the FL market better.

The broker will expect an offer with a survey contingency, but you should pick the surveyor. You can find them [url="http://www.marinesurvey.org/us-regions.html"]here[/url]--you shouldn't have a problem in that area.

Good luck--and let us know (on the <b>Catalina 25</b> forum). I'm just an alumnus to this great web community.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 03/28/2013 13:01:49
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mycat
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2013 :  13:34:02  Show Profile
Yes, That is the boat and the outboard has an extralong shaft. Is this a deal breaker? I have a survey scheduled for tomorrow. Should I go ahead and spend the money?
I have seen other boats with a more powerful outboard and they all say that the max cruising speed is 6 knots. This is the same speed posted for this one.
Somebody else already mentioned this on an earlier post. Thanks again

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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2013 :  13:58:08  Show Profile
Max cruising speed is the "hull speed" of the boat. That's as fast as the boat will go with any size motor. An undersized motor may not reach hull speed at all. The info the broker lists is standard yada-yada.

For the Fort Myers area and the Gulf of Mexico, I would want an 9.8hp with xl-shaft.

ETA: Maybe not a deal breaker, but realize you may want to sell the 6hp and buy a larger outboard. BTW, I might be enticed to sell my boat for that price.......I have been dreaming of a C310....

Edited by - Davy J on 03/28/2013 14:13:54
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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2013 :  15:30:58  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by mycat</i>
<br />Yes, That is the boat and the outboard has an extralong shaft. Is this a deal breaker? I have a survey scheduled for tomorrow. Should I go ahead and spend the money?
I have seen other boats with a more powerful outboard and they all say that the max cruising speed is 6 knots. This is the same speed posted for this one.
Somebody else already mentioned this on an earlier post. Thanks again
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The 6 hp engine wouldn't be a deal breaker for me, but it's your decision. 6 hp provides minimal power for a C25. It's enough for cruising generally in sheltered waters, like the ICW or a Bay. My engine was a Merc 7.5, and it was plenty for my use. Where you would like more power is when motoring against a strong tidal current, such as you might encounter passing through a bridge, especially after a storm. But, the reality is that, if your boat has a maximum designed hull speed of 6.3 kts, and the current running against you is 6.5 kts, you won't be able to get through the bridge, regardless of whether you have a 6 hp or a 9.8 hp engine. In that case, you'll just have to drop the anchor and wait for the tidal current to abate. That isn't a problem that is only encountered by smaller sailboats. It is inherent in all sailboats. I encountered a 7.3 kt current while passing through a bridge just north of Boca Grande, on a Morgan 38 with a 55 hp diesel, and just barely made it through against the current. You can get around with a smaller engine, but you'll need to pay attention to abnormally strong tidal currents, and avoid motoring in the Gulf in especially rough conditions (which is a good practice anyway for a newbie in a smaller boat). The deal breaker for me would be if you find a major repair that needs to be made, or if it's overall condition is poor, or if you can't reach a fair agreement on price.

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mycat
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2013 :  18:25:34  Show Profile
Great advise. Thanks to all. I will let you know what came out of the survey.....

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 03/29/2013 :  16:22:39  Show Profile
Make sure the sole in the cockpit is not soft. One positive I see, it appears the gudgeons for the rudder have already been replaced based on the cutout plate just below the tiller.

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mycat
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 03/29/2013 :  21:00:33  Show Profile
We had an in water survey today on the C25 1986. There were 2 things that stuck:
There are signs of water leaking down the wood that separates the head from the cabin on the port side and on the starboard side between the sink and the cabin. It appears to be coming from the middle shrouds that attach to the chainplates.
The second one was related to the keel bolts that seem to be rusted. All of the keel bolts are partially covered with fiberglass and damage could not be better assessed due to this. There is a crack that extends forward from one of the front bolts (the one on the port side).
How serious are these and how expensive is to repair them?

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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 03/30/2013 :  04:32:20  Show Profile  Visit shnool's Homepage
Leaking at the chainplate is common. Checking the bulkhead, to make sure there is no softness of wood, otherwise it'll need to be replaced. To keep the chainplate deck end from leaking further, rebed it with butyl tape.

The forward keel bolt sounds like a stress crack... perhaps grounding? Rusted isn't a huge deal, that's likely related to standing water in the bilge. The question is, was it rainwater (likely see prior problem)...

There's a thread on here about keel smiles on the Cat 25. Is there evidence of a smile developing on the forward leading edge of the keel (you'd need to pull the boat to know)? If not, you might be OK. Well, repair would be to remove that bolt, and see what you can. Check the crack, I bet you find it's just a gelcoat stress crack, but you won't know until you pick at it.

Edited by - shnool on 03/30/2013 06:10:55
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JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 04/02/2013 :  10:55:08  Show Profile
The local knowledge provided in the post above by DavyJ should be taken seriously. He sails in that area and understands the conditions better than anyone who sails in other places around the country.

So if DavyJ says you may NEED a bigger outboard, you could use that info to bargain the price down or else walk away from this boat.

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