Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I learned the hard way to ALWAYS put a jack stand at the stern end of my trailer, as soon as I disconnect the hitch. Especially when I have a helper, it is NOW my job to be sure and chalk all four trailer wheels and set the jack stand. The trailer may look level, but when it starts rolling as soon as you get it off the hitch-all of the magic of a great sailing experience goes away. If I have the boat just a few inches too far back, and I have the tongue jacked up high, I can lift the tongue with one finger. Recently when I forgot to set the jack under the stern, and I left the tongue up high; when I jumped up on the stern and the boat teetered back, I jumped off, lost my balance and ended up with a crash landing with a good number of stitches in my hand. All of the fun ended right there.
With too little tongue weight the trailer will fish tail like crazy. As little as a few inches moving the boat fore or aft on the trailer, changes the weight distribution a lot. The trailer should sit about level, but the lower you have the tongue, the more tongue weight you will have. Be sure and check your trailer tires for proper inflation. After I bought four real trailer tires, I was surprised to learn the minimum and maximum cold pressure was 65-psi, and the tire shop advised the number one reason for trailer tire failure is under inflation, the second cause is the tires will have great looking tread, but they are OLD tires that suffer from dry rot. Don't take for granted that the bearings are good or well lubed, until you check them. If I had it to do over, I would have taken my trailer to a reputable trailer shop, for a once over, before I started home. It helps if the brakes actually work.
I started out with adjustable pads on my trailer like yours, then I removed the pads, and installed simple bunks. Inevitably, when it came time to put the boat back on the trailer, I had trouble with the pads 'floating around or rotating' while the trailer was submerged. Life is easier now.
My mast lights needed a new bulb and the connections at the deck were corroded. A new bulb and a gentle wire brush worked wonders.
At www.iboats.com you can find a match for the Original Catalina Gelcoat for your boat. I just got some and should be trying it in the next week.
They done have any weather checking and bearings were just replaced. I'll check pressured and hope for the best. Silly question, do I need to strap the boat to the trailer somehow?
Yes it needs to be strapped and tied down in some manner other than the cable up front. A good quality wide strap over the rear plus a safety chain at the front will do. Don't rely on 1 cable to hold your boat. A sudden lane change could throw your load if it is not properly secured.
Kyle I sent you a few photos. Concerning tying the boat to the trailer for travel, I use the bow eye, and two 10,000-pound cargo straps, one of these is near the stern over the hull by the winches, and one over the hull near the bow just behind the two deck cleats. The straps are secured to the trailer where they will not slide around. You don't want the bow strap to 'lay' over the forward hatch, my understanding is this is not a strong area of the hull. Or on the other hand there are stronger places to put your straps. Doug
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.