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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/21/2013 : 20:08:19

In addition to getting the boat ready to pull in a few weeks I'm also about to replace the brakes on my trailer since they do not work.

My question is, what size coupler assembly should I use for the replacement? 7000#, 8000#? What size ball? Is one brand better than another?

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2013 : 20:25:29

Can't really advise you regarding the sizes you need, but I can tell you what I just installed on my trailer. My new coupler is a 2" ball, the brakes are rated to 6600 lbs. I've never weighed my boat & trailer, but I'd guess I'm pretty close to 6k lbs with all our crap onboard.

I did a fair amount of research before I bought my Tow Zone brake kit (which is made by Tie Down Engineering), and I opted for a relatively inexpensive kit because I rarely use my trailer, plus I'm pretty sure my brakes have never worked on the trailer. I think there is some differences between manufacturers, but overall the brake kits you can purchase should get the job done for you.

It'll be interesting to see what it's like to tow the boat with the new brakes on it to see what kind of difference I notice.

Edited by - delliottg on 06/21/2013 20:27:05

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2013 : 20:39:37

Are the brakes rated to 6600 lbs. or the coupler or both?

I believe my trailer is rated for 6,800 lbs. (I know it's not more than that) so I plan on emptying the boat before I start towing since I think the boat and trailer will be close to that weight. Has anyone weighed their C25 lately? Was the boat empty when you weighed?

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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4479 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2013 : 21:35:18

I'm pretty sure it's coupler & brakes.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 06/22/2013 : 07:12:30

This is one of the best prices I've found for the Tie Down brake kit, $398.
http://www.easternmarine.com/tie-down-vented-disc-brake-sa-complete-kit-5-lug-82405

If you are going to be around salt water, get the SS version, about $85 more.
When I replaced the actuator only on my C-25 trailer, I went with an Attwood model
rated at 8,000 lbs. I think I would try to match the actuator rating with the trailer's rating,
i.e. if you have two 3,500 lb axles, then look at 7-8000 lb actuators, if two 5,200 lb axles, go higher.
I also went with a 2" ball, and folks here on the forum boohooed me for it. They said that 2" balls were good only up to 6,000 lbs, but I was able to find a 2" ball mount from Curt rated at 7,500 lbs that I bought, and also saw them up to 10,000 lbs. However, if you go higher than 7,500 lbs, I recommend the 2 5/16" ball. It's more widely accepted.

Edited by - dmpilc on 06/22/2013 07:20:47

binky
Navigator

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USA
115 Posts

Response Posted - 06/22/2013 : 13:32:11

Make sure you have at least a Class 3 receiver hitch.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 06/22/2013 : 14:11:15

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by binky
 Make sure you have at least a Class 3 receiver hitch.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yep, I got that covered.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 06/22/2013 : 18:14:37

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dmpilc
 This is one of the best prices I've found for the Tie Down brake kit, $398.
http://www.easternmarine.com/tie-down-vented-disc-brake-sa-complete-kit-5-lug-82405

If you are going to be around salt water, get the SS version, about $85 more.
When I replaced the actuator only on my C-25 trailer, I went with an Attwood model
rated at 8,000 lbs. I think I would try to match the actuator rating with the trailer's rating,
i.e. if you have two 3,500 lb axles, then look at 7-8000 lb actuators, if two 5,200 lb axles, go higher.
I also went with a 2" ball, and folks here on the forum boohooed me for it. They said that 2" balls were good only up to 6,000 lbs, but I was able to find a 2" ball mount from Curt rated at 7,500 lbs that I bought, and also saw them up to 10,000 lbs. However, if you go higher than 7,500 lbs, I recommend the 2 5/16" ball. It's more widely accepted.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
So I'm wondering if I should go with the kit I think David bought -- >> [url="http://www.easternmarine.com/tie-down-vented-disc-brake-sa-complete-kit-5-lug-82405"]GalvX Brakes[/url] or the stainless steel brakes with ceramic brake pads -->> [url="http://www.easternmarine.com/tie-down-9-6-s-s-g5-disc-brake-kit-82072"]"G5" S.S. Disc Brakes w/Ceramic Pads[/url].

I will be around salt/brackish water and I may or may not ever launch by submerging the trailer. At most it would be twice per year.

Thoughts?

Edited by - GaryB on 06/22/2013 18:16:32

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/22/2013 : 18:39:00

What brand is the trailer?

When we bought a new trailer from Trail-Rite in 2010, they discouraged me from stainleess discs, even stainless brake lines.

A 2 5/16" ball was stardard equipment.

We have a Class IV hitch.

Edited by - OJ on 06/22/2013 18:42:13

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 06/22/2013 : 18:50:54

I think most 2" balls are rated to 8000lbs.
2 5/16" rated to 30,000lbs.

anyone weigh their 25 all up, gear, trailer and all?
I really want to do same with my Capri.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 06/22/2013 : 19:00:58

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by OJ
 What brand is the trailer?

When we bought a new trailer from Trail-Rite in 2010, they discouraged me from stainleess discs, even stainless brake lines.

A 2 5/16" ball was stardard equipment.

We have a Class IV hitch.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The trailer is a Magic Tilt built in Florida.

I wonder why they are discouraging against stainless?

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 06/23/2013 : 16:13:34

"...at most two times per year..." get the GalvX brakes and save the extra cost. Should be fine. Be sure to flush well if you dunk the trailer in salt/brakish water.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2013 : 14:43:56

Incase anyone needs some good information about trailers and repairs along with decnt prices on the parts check out this website -- >> http://www.championtrailers.com/

Go to the Tech Questions for some really interesting reading. I thought this was interesting since my trailer came with the brakes on the front axle:

With a spring suspension system, when only one brake axle is being installed on a tandem axle trailer, it is advisable to have brakes on the rear axle for maximum system performance. Rotational torque applied to axles during braking shifts the equalizer of a spring suspension system and applies more weight to the rear axle allowing the rear tires to dig into the road. If brakes are installed on the front axle, the wheels may skid during braking.

Edited by - GaryB on 06/24/2013 14:44:57

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2013 : 15:05:41

In your question regarding SS or Galv-X, I chose Galv-X precisely for the reason you stated, I rarely use my trailer, and couldn't see the expense for the SS brakes.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2013 : 11:24:34

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by delliottg
 In your question regarding SS or Galv-X, I chose Galv-X precisely for the reason you stated, I rarely use my trailer, and couldn't see the expense for the SS brakes.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

My orignal plan was to pull the boat out for 4 or 5 months during the heat of the summer and polish the hull and redo the teak at the house in the early morning and late afternoon. The money I saved on slip fees would pay for most of the bottom job.

Now I'm starting to question whether I should stick with that plan or not. $400 for brakes, $150 - $300 to get the boat lifted out with the Travelift and then close to the same going back in around late October after most of the heat and hurricane season has past.

If I leave it in I could hire someone to polish the hull in the water and redo the teak and probably break even or come out ahead. They would probably do a better job than me anyway and I wouldn't have to sweat a drop!

Still need to have a bottom job done though so getting it pulled for that would offset some of the charges above for getting it pulled.

Any thoughts?

Edited by - GaryB on 06/25/2013 11:31:03

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2013 : 18:13:51

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by GaryB
 Still need to have a bottom job done though so getting it pulled for that would offset some of the charges above for getting it pulled.

Any thoughts?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I assumed you were taking the boat on a trip . . . so you are basically using it as a yard trailer?

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2013 : 19:04:57

No, I'm bringing it 35 miles closer to home so I can work on it and save some money during the hot summer months when I know I won't be sailing.

I have a 35' enclosed boat stall that I keep my SeaRay in. I'm going to move it out and put Andiamo in there for the summer. It's only about 10 miles from my house so on the weekends I can bring Andiamo home and work on it in front of the house. When I get hot I can go into the A/C and cool off.

Having it in the stall will also allow me to pull all the teak off and not have to worry about rain getting into the holes. I can then refinish the teak at my leisure.

But then again, like I said it might be cheaper to just pay someone to do it while it's in the water and not upgrade the trailer with new brakes.

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