Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
One last cetol question . If they use pigments for UV protection, is one comprimising this by using cetol light vs. regular cetol? I would assume the lght has less pigmentation. I want the UV protection without coloring the wood.
Coincidently, I was at BoatUS today and I was looking at their test panel with the three Cetol finishes and I could hardly tell the difference in pigmentation between the regular and the light. It appeared that the "light" was a bit duller in sheen, but the overall color looked the same.
Anyway, just to let you know, right now BoatUS has a sale on Cetol at their marine centers. Buy 1 quart get one free. Keep in mind that West Marine will honor this sale, too.
Here's part of an article on Wood Finishes from the West Advisor,
<b>Synthetic Wood Finishes</b>
These are the (relatively) new kids on the block, with names like Sikkens Cetol, Armada, and West Marine Wood Pro. They have remarkable durability for exterior use, are relatively easy to apply, and look relatively good. We say relatively good because these products tend to have a pigmented appearance, with an orangish brown cast (Cetol), or a sort of chocolaty brown (Armada) which you either like or possibly don't like. We formulated our Wood Pro with as little pigment as possible, so that as much of the wood's natural appearance is preserved, but this is an area of personal taste. Finishes in this category are, like varnish, available in gloss and satin finishes. Ease of application is similar to teak oil, where you can apply it directly over sanded, clean wood. Masking surrounding areas is highly recommended.
This is why the handrails from "Even Chance" are here at home awaiting the fifth of seven coats of West Marine Skipper Varnish (see the Practical Sailor article about varnishes).
They are simply stunning. . . more so than anything I've seen coated with Cetol. That same West Marine article, after listing all the liabilities of varnish, admits that nothing looks better.
<b>"They are simply stunning. . . more so than anything I've seen coated with Cetol. That same West Marine article, after listing all the liabilities of varnish, admits that nothing looks better."</b>
You won't get an argument here because I agree, that you won't find a better looking finish than varnish. I remember my father varnishing his old all wood Chris Craft and that thing gleamed. What a beauty!
But I, and most people who use Cetol, don't use Cetol because it <i>"looks"</i> better than varnish. We use it because of it's <i>longevity, durability, and easy application.</i>
The biggest difference is that when a wonderful varnish job gets nicked or cracked for some reason, and moisture starts to get under it, you have to take it all off and start over to get that same look. Cetol is more like an ablative paint than a plastic coating--it sort of wears away and can be overcoated and touched up at any time. Each individual piece of teak may not look like a piece of furniture, but the whole boat can look really sharp with just a little maintenance every year or two.
John: Go with the Light and see how it looks and performs for you--you can overcoat it with regular. Indiana is not known for the brutality of its sunlight like Texas or Florida.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.