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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 Trailering the Boat
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Captmorgan
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USA
220 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/08/2013 :  19:33:58  Show Profile
<font face="Verdana"><font color="blue"><font size="3">I thought I posted this but cant find it

Its getting to the end of the season and Im thinking of pulling my boat out in early november.

I just boat the boat and may and the trailer has been sitting for 2 years.

What advice could you experienced haulers give me. I have some stepping hardware the last person had. They are like two by four v's with and roller on them.

What should I check out on the extension trailer. What tips could help me avoid disaster.

How do you use the extention trailer I never used one.

Tips on Keel etc?</font id="size3"></font id="blue"></font id="Verdana">

"The Gal-Way" 1985 SR/SK Barnegat Bay, NJ

Enjoy Sailing =) Be Safe

Happy Sailing - John




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hewebb
Admiral

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USA
761 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2013 :  04:04:13  Show Profile
I do not know what kind of extension you have. Mine; I have a third wheel that I attach to the front of the trailer and a 16' steel extender that has a ball on one end and a coupler on the other that I use. Some trailers have an extension that pulls out which is much easier. If the trailer has been in salt water check the axels for internal rust. Mine rusted out from the inside and one broke off. Check the wheel bearings, re-pack and make sure the brakes work. Back up the trailer on the ramp, chock the wheels, remove any locking pins and pull out the extension with vehicle (Hopefully it is not rusted in place) Remove chocks, finish backing up on ramp, Load boat. Make sure you are as far forward on the trailer as the boat can go. Pull out, stop, chock wheels and return extension to original position and lock in place. Make sure you have sufficient tongue weight to haul on the highway. Some trailers have an issue in this area as mine does if I do not get the boat up all the way. Not sure this is a help but is from my experience with current trailer.

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britinusa
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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2013 :  09:11:23  Show Profile  Visit britinusa's Homepage
John,
my boat is a C250 and so the trailer and process are quite different.

From experience, I know that you really do need a truck capable of pulling the boat up the ramp, and 4x4 makes a world of difference. But any boat pull up the ramp should be attempted in the lowest gear and the slowest of speeds, crawl is good, blue smoke of the rear tires is not!

Paul

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2013 :  12:27:33  Show Profile
I'll assume from your questions that you've never done this before. My first advice is to find someone to help you who has experience hauling out a boat the size of a C-25.
Two types of tongue extensions:
1. Trailer tongue/actuator is on the front of an extension tube that slides out in front of the trailer. It should be one or two removable pins that secure it in place. To deploy, chock wheels, disconnect brake line (if necessary),remove pin(s), lower tongue winch to take pressure off of the extension at the slide bracket, and roll forward slowly. When extended, replace pin(s), remove chocks and trailer is ready for the water.
2. A separate bar or tube that will either slide out from the trailer or is placed between the trailer and the tow vehicle. The former will be under the trailer tongue and slides forward like #1 above. The latter is a separate bar that will have 2 wheels and a ball at the trailer end and a coupler at the tow vehicle end.Process to employ is similar to #1, but vehicle must be disconnected from the trailer after chocking the trailer wheels in order to connect the extension tube.
Trailer:
1. Make sure the tires are not dry rotted and are properly inflated, bearings are re-packed, brakes work, and the lights function properly. Ditto the check for rust in axles, bearings, brake drums, etc.
2. Make sure the tongue extension and winch work properly and that the boat winch strap/line/cable is good. Be sure to disconnect the brake line, if necessary, before employing the tongue extension if it is the kind that pulls straight out from the trailer.
3. Do a practice run at the ramp to make sure you can get the trailer deep enough. If not, then you will likely need to switch to a strap launch method. If your trailer has bunks, it will need to go deep enough for the boat to clear the rear uplift of the bunk boards.
4. Plan to get wet.

Boat:
1. Have a 3/8" line about 50' long available to cinch to the trailer winch stand and run back to each genoa winch. Once you have the boat on the trailer, you will want to crank these lines tight to keep the boat from sliding backward on the trailer as you pull out.
2. Make sure the swing keel is full up before driving her onto the trailer.
3. Give yourself plenty of room to line up with the trailer.
4. Remember that the boat is heavy and will have a lot of forward momentum approaching the trailer.
5. Remember to lower the keel onto the keel rest after pull-out.
This is not all-inclusive, but will give you a good start.

Edited by - dmpilc on 09/09/2013 12:31:17
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OJ
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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2013 :  12:42:37  Show Profile
As Howard states above - make sure the brakes work . . . stopping is key!

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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2013 :  13:20:42  Show Profile  Visit britinusa's Homepage
Try to find out if there is a ramp drop off or bar at the deep end of the ramp.

One of our local ramps has a concrete bar across the end of the ramp and is barely visible at high tide.

I have seen several trailers lowered beyond the bar and their trailer wheel dropped beyond it.

They had to have a boat haul up on the back of the trailer (obviously the rear of the trailer was deep under water) in order to get the wheels shallow enough that they could pull the trailer back over the bar.

Not a pretty sight and other ramp users were not amused.

Paul
Paul

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Captmorgan
Navigator

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USA
220 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2013 :  19:08:23  Show Profile
Thanks for all the info. I have a type 2 trailer with a separate bar. So I am assuming you load the trailer with the extension pull the boat up halfway and then chocking the tires. then pulling it out the rest of the way. I will check axles and brakes etc. I have a chevy Silverado 4.8 4X 4 with a towing package. If I go slow I would think Im OK. What is the weight of the boat and trailer. guess it depends on the trailer. Ill check my weight and take some pics next weekend.

all I can say is this site is awesome and Ill try to contribute back as I learn. Its awesome to have this support.

PS I bought my first copy of Chapman's Piloting and Seamanship. thanks for the help.


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WesAllen
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USA
222 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2013 :  19:22:53  Show Profile
Mine weighs 6200# on the trailer with nothing in the boat. I pull mine on the level before putting the tongue back in the trailer tube. I don't like the idea of having the trailer halfway up the ramp while trying to get the tongue back in. Not to mention holding up the ramp for someone else to use.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 09/10/2013 :  09:26:25  Show Profile
My fin keel trailer weighed 1,480 lbs empty. Plan on the boat weighing at least 4,500 lbs. or more, depending on gear, outboard, etc. With the fin keel trailer, I had to use the strap method (30' long tow strap instead of a solid extension bar), so we had to chock the trailer on the ramp after pull-out in order to reconnect the tow vehicle to the trailer. With a solid bar, you should be able to pull on up to level ground and free up the ramp. If you do it on the ramp, be sure the loaded trailer is not tongue-light.

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glen
Captain

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359 Posts

Response Posted - 09/10/2013 :  09:35:29  Show Profile
On vacation one year we stopped at a truck stop to have lunch and were told we could get a free reading on their scale. The boat was loaded with all sorts of C#@P plus I have added a good number of modifications over the years. Including the trailer she was around 8,000 lbs.

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Captmorgan
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USA
220 Posts

Response Posted - 09/10/2013 :  20:14:55  Show Profile

I appreciate all this advice. I think Im going to have to get a larger truck to haul it. I thought the boat and trailer would be about 5,500 lbs... but its better to be on the safe side.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by glen</i>
<br />On vacation one year we stopped at a truck stop to have lunch and were told we could get a free reading on their scale. The boat was loaded with all sorts of C#@P plus I have added a good number of modifications over the years. Including the trailer she was around 8,000 lbs.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 09/13/2013 :  19:09:11  Show Profile
If it is just a short haul, rent a large U-Haul truck. Some of the newer ones have both types of hitches, bumper and class 3. You'll need the class 3.

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wegman
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2013 :  16:53:10  Show Profile  Visit wegman's Homepage
Here is a late addition to this discussion:

1. A safety line between the tow vehicle and the trailer, (to back up the solid extension) can prevent disaster. I was told of an incident at our local ramp where the ball and coupler separated, and the trailer rolled wildly down the ramp, incurring serious damage.
2. Your 4X4 truck probably has a "four low" gear option. With four low, my 2010 Tundra (half ton) with 5.7 liter engine has no trouble towing my C25 up steep inclines. If your truck has four low and a tow rating of at least 8500#, you do not need a larger tow vehicle.
3. Practice coupling and decoupling the extension, and setting up the safety line, in a level parking lot.
4. Check the archive. There is a wealth of information on ramp launching/retrieving, and raising/lowering the mast.

Good luck!

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 10/17/2013 :  07:36:09  Show Profile
I towed mine with a Mountaineer but the 35 miles to and from my house are flat, well paved and low traffic. I never used a ramp either.

One problem with extensions is they tend to bend and then will not slide back into what ever they "park" in when not in use. A tongue wheel at the coupler to bear the tongue weight is a very good idea. A double jack wheel if nothing else but many here have fabricated real wheel units that are awesome. If yo do bend your extension then just have some large C clamps with you and clamp it along side where it is supposed to stow.

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