Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Once it warms up, I am going to epoxy in a backing plate for the Marelon SeaCock that came on the boat. The only thing keeping it in place is the mushroom head screwed in from the outside! The mushroom was screwed in with gobbs and gobbs of what looks like Sikaflex or some other black goop. I guess the motto was 'if it still leaks, goop it up more!' http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/backing_blocks Anyway I am going to follow the directions on MaineSail's website and epoxy in a backing plate so I don't have to drill holes in the hull and then fair them afterwards, then the only thing showing will be the mushroom (with ALOT less Sikaflex).
It is not bedded in resin.... or anything! when I unscrewed the mushroom from the outside, it just dropped down inside the hull! no wonder it was leaking. Plus I want to replace the hoses as well. just look at the big kink in the hose where it attaches to the thru hull. Since it was in a lake that requires a pump out, I don't think this overboard discharge has ever been used, but I would like the option in the future.
Just a thought. It was easier for me to glass up the areas for my thru hulls and then drill through the backing. I glassed up about 1/2", sanded it flat and then used the existing holes as a guide. Only took a couple of hours of work and then I drilled the holes the next day. Most of that was waiting for the glass to cure enough for another layer.
Here's an update on the project..... here's the backing plate, cut to shape and drilled and tapped for the studs. MAN! is this stuff hard! I ended up getting a 1/2 inch stuff and I could probably have gotten away with 1/4 or definitely 3/8". I don't have a photo of it, but I ground down the back side to better contour to the hull.... ....Then I used the caliper to see how long the mushroom needed to be and cut it... and then I mixed in some 404 and some fiberglass loose fibers into the mix, made it about the consistency of mayo and it is now curing in the hull.... I will get some more photos of it finished. NOW this thing will not leak! I will seal the mushroom and the seacock with Sikaflex after the epoxy has fully cured. The G10 board is so stiff and strong it makes a really nice backing to seal against VS. just the hull. Cheers, Scott
...here's a shot of the mix... before installing I sanded the inside of the hull and cleaned it with fiberglass prep cleaner... I bet this would rip the hull apart if I ever have to remove it!
Super job, photos like that last one are so important to helping people by letting them see the items needed. I had a series of photos on repairing the "tube sockets" for the wings on a Hobie 17 and I started the series with a shot like that.
To keep the epoxy from attaching to the PVC which acted as a form for reconstructing the tubes. The Hobie 17 was a terrible design because water would freeze in the tubes and shatter them. Once the old gal I bought for $300 was fixed I stored her upside down over the winter.
Finished the backing plate, here are some photos. There are more photos I uploaded to the album in the photo gallery as well....
and from the outside... The original hole was quite a bit bigger than the mushroom so I filled it with epoxy and recut it so it is as snug as possible to the mushroom. you can see on this photo that the threads of the mushroom have marked up the hole a little bit, it is that snug!
Anyway, so now the backing plate is installed, surface is perfectly flat to seal against the seacock and the mushroom will seal tightly into the hole. And the hull/backingplate is over an inch thick in this one spot now. Should be good to go for the next 26 years...
Now to install the seacock and mushroom with sikaflex 291....I will post a photo of that once I do, and then the head is almost ready to use, then I can find and attack the next leak! Cheers,
Tada!! I feel better already.... oh, and don't put the sikaflex on after work until you have changed out of your office pants.... even if the little voice in your head convinces you otherwise....
And mineral spirits is the perfect cleaner to wipe up the sikaflex after the job... Sikaflex suggests some expensive 'Sika Remover 208' and 'Sika Hand Cleaner Towels' = expensive! Mineral spirits did the job for me, and twice as many paper towls as might think. Cheers, Scott
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.