Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
For many of you transporting and handling a furler is old hat. For us however, it is brand new since, just last week, we had a Scheafer 700 furler installed. It also meant purchasing a new 110% jib totaling just about 3 CAN boat dollars.
Tying the plastic luff down along the mast is no problem but keeping it straight is something else. The drum arrangement now sticks well past the foot of the mast and needs to be supported.
We'd value your solutions, tips, suggestions and especially pictures and illustrations.
Henk & Johanna "Floating", a few off your "barnacles". "Someday Lady" '95 C250WB #151 ('03 - 2016) "Sea ya" 30ft Bayliner (04-2018 - 09-2018) "Mariah" '96 C250WB #191 (05-2019 - 15-05-2023) "Lady J" '00 C250WK #499 (05-2021 - 09-2022)
I just snake my PVC furler along the stanchions with gentle curves and cable ties and secure the drum to the foot of the mast. I originally secured a 2x4 "T" across the bow pulpit with the long leg forward and secured the drum to it. The current system is easier and works well with a little sun on the furler at rigging time.
Henk, we do something similar to your solution. I lash a pole to the end of the mast with a sufficient amount extending forward. Then we lash the luff track to the whole contraption.
This has worked for storage and a couple thousand miles of towing. Of course you guys are just warming up the tires at a thousand miles so YMMV...
I use bungees every four feet or so along the mast, starting at the head. An 8-foot 1x3 board extends beyond the foot of the mast to the top of the furler. The board is tightly secured to the mast, and the foil is tightly secured to the board. It keeps the foil pretty straight for its whole length.
I use my A-frame to support the furler. Once the Aframe collapses and then I have used this to lash to the mast and extend out over the Pulpit far enough to support the drum. It is not pretty, put it does the job. I want to refine my A-frame system so it is easier to raise the mast, and when I do, I plan to make a support bracket that spans the pulpit and overhangs the forward end with a cradle for the drum, but for now my crude A-frame does the job, plus...come mast raising time, the A-frame is already on deck!
Until we have a better solution this seems to work for now
For now the furler drum assembly is supported by a 4ft long 4" pvc pipe cut in half and tied to the mast.
Note the wood pin inserted in the gin-pole hole to prevent the 4" pipe from shifting. Once the weather clears a bit we'll try to simplify the furler drum support assembly
This is probably not what you are looking for, but found this neat idea how to tie down the furler alum. sections on some German forum related to the trailer sailors.
I would just enhance it by mounting a tie down strap on that wooden piece and wrap it around the mast and furler.
Since the boat will be, for a good portion of the year, covered by a 20ft x 30ft tarp the temperature under the tarp around the mast area can soar in spite of providing big ventilation openings at the bow and stern.
In the Foil Maintenance section it warns against temperatures over 130 F or 55 C
My question is has anybody experienced deterioration, warping or anythings else of the foil... anything you have done or... not to worry...
Using a 4" pvc pipe cut in half and strapped to the top of the mast with wood wedges added to clear the mast navigation light. Hope fully the temperature under the tarp is somewhat reduced and will not affect the plastic foil
Winter storage tarp with buckets on both ends of the mast covering the anchor light on the stern and roller furler assembly on the bow A bucket covers also the hitch and is held in place with a bungee The $45.00 tarp will be good for about 3-5 seasons Spacers are added to the bow and stern tarp to allow a permanent opening for maximum air movement below the tarp Foam padding is added at the stanchions and pressure points Cement blocks are canter-levered below the trailers frame for the winter season to take the load off the springs.
I don't worry about high temps under the tarp in our winters, but I do rig on a sunny day so the plastic is more flexible. Pearl was in storage for nearly a year after my knee surgery a rigging was uneventful. You might want to rotate your block 90 degrees so the open ends take the load; that is the axis of their greatest strength
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.