Association Forum - 82 Capri - Need all 4 window frames

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Capri 25 Specific Forum

82 Capri - Need all 4 window frames

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

JoeMT
Deckhand

Member Avatar

USA
8 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/07/2014 : 12:27:07

First boat 82 capri 25 and the windows were removed at some point. Plexiglass was screwed down onver the original windo openings and they leaked. What a mess. I need to repair these windows.....

Does anyone have a set or frames or know my best option? I've read the leaks, but most of those were rebuilding existing framed windows.

Thank you

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2014 : 15:59:00

Best I can tell replacing with the same windows (with frames) is the worst option, they eventually leak as well. The surface mount acryllic windows seem to be the most successful option. Catalina Yachts themselves use Dow 795 to adhere the windows to the fiberglass. I've personally not done this mod, but it's on my bucket list for my boat.

I like the later model Capri 25 (1986ish) windows, they are more chiseled in shape, and slightly recessed into the fiberglass. They are merely glued in place, but I think glued and screwed might be the best option, and if that is what is done (screws every 4 inches or so, then butyl tape might be a better sealant. use high quality butyl tape. This guy has the best stuff going... http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

Edited by - on

JoeMT
Deckhand

Members Avatar

USA
8 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2014 : 13:05:47

Ok, as far as buying new windows, the DuPont adhesive and butyl tape (sealant around windows?). WHere is the best place to purchase the windows? Second any suggestions on the interior portion. Due to leakage it has separated a little.....looks bad. Anyone have to deal with this and make it look good?

Thank you

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2014 : 04:05:56

I'd reexpoxy it, fill, fair, and paint.... but that's me.

Edited by - on

GrapeTX
1st Mate

Members Avatar

28 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2014 : 18:30:56

I just completed window replacements with 3/16" acrylic. It was not as hard as I feared so I recommend taking this project on one weekend or over few evenings I used Butyl and Dow Corning 795. NO SCREWS

Here are some tips and the process I took.

1. The frames of the old windows are too small to use as a template for the new acrylic. However, I did use the frames as a rough outline of the shape I needed to cut the acrylic. You only need two because the other side is simply a mirror image of the other.

2.I used some clear flexible cutting boards you can buy at places like bed bath and beyond to draw the template of the old window frames on. (taped two together to get the length needed). Once you have the outline of the old windows on the clear plastic you can line it up over the window holes and tape them down with painters tape. Now you can see the actual window opening and mark the actual size and shape of the new windows you want with a grease pencil. You should size them for at least a 1" overlay all the way around. When you have the shape you want, cut them out with scissors.

3. I purchased 3/16" bronze (smoke) acrylic. The darkest bronze you can get is perfect ... it is about the same darkness as the glass being replaced. Two blanks cut to 7" x 27 1/2" and two cut to 8 1/4" x 29". The 3/16" thickness is all you need because the opening is small and the 3/16 is flexible to bend to the contour of the cabin top. Once the acrylic is mounted it is structurally sound with no flex. Don't use poly carbonate material because it does not hold up to the UV and it will get cloudy within a year. Get the acrylic with the paper backing protection not the plastic film. Cost for the acrylic was $62.

4. Now I have the acrylic and the window templates that I outline onto the paper covered acrylic. Having the blanks cut to the size above I did not have much cutting to do on the acrylic. I trimmed the acrylic on a router table using a straight bit taking little off at a time till I reached my lines. Oversize this cut about an 1/8" because once I had the acrylic cut, I taped the two like pieces for each side together and sanded with a belt sander to smooth out any rough spots and make a smooth edge... then hit again with a palm sander to give it a finished edge and take off the square edge on what will be the outside face of the windows.

5. At this point I had matching windows for both sides. To make the install look clean I then remove 1 1/2" of the paper protection around the inside face of the acrylic. Clean this exposed acrylic with a mix of 1/4 denatured alcohol and 3/4 water and then I painted this area with black appliance epoxy spray paint. Let it dry overnight and then give it a light sanding to roughen it some without sanding through the paint. This paint step will give you a clean border from the outside. When you take the windows out you will see the cutouts are very rough and you will see this through the acrylic when installed if you do not paint the inside border.

6. The acrylic is now ready for installation. Prep the area of the cabin by sanding it free of all debris and wax, then wash it off good with a wet rag. On the outside face, with the paper still on, measure and mark the center on the top, bottom, and both ends near the edges. You will use these marks to line up the windows on the cabin. Take those same measurements and make the same four marks around the opening of the windows. Align the acrylic on the marks and then trace around the acrylic with a pencil. You should now have about a 1" border around the window openings.

7. Use a good 2" painters tape to tape around the pencil lines, about 1/8" inside the line. This is to make the cleanup easy by not getting the DOW 795 on the gelcoat. A paper towel and mineral spirits cleans the 795 sealant easily as long as its still wet. Once you have one layer of tape on ... put on a second layer about at the pencil line.

8. Once the tape is down clean the exposed gel coat mounting area with acetone or other wash. Wear gloves and a mask for this chemical.

9. I also used some 3/16" x 1/8" thick butyl tape. I used an exacto knife to cut the length of the butyl tape in half and then place it around the edge of the opening. The butyl did three things. First it gave me the thickness of the DOW 795 sealant to mount the acrylic, second it prevented the sealant from squeezing out on the inside and making a mess to clean up, and third it provided an adhesive to help hold the acrylic in place while the Dow 795 cured.

10. Run a heavy / thick bead of the sealant between the butyl tape and the painters tape. (Plan to use one tube of 795 per side) Run another smaller bead on the acrylic about 1/2" from the edge.. While holding the edge of the acrylic ( wear disposable glove) line it up evenly using the tape outline as your guide. If you put a thick enough bead of sealant you will be able to align the acrylic before it touches the butyl tape. Once in position press on the acrylic from the center and you will start to see it ooze out around the edges. Go around the edges and make sure you have sealant oozing all the way around. The Dow 795 is thick and creates somewhat of a suction when you press on the acrylic. Keep light pressure on the acrylic so you don't squeeze out all the sealant by taping it down on the corners and in the middle with strips of duct tape. Let that sit for about 15 minutes.

11. Once the acrylic has set for about 15 minutes take a plastic putty knife and go around the edges to cut and remove the excess sealant. Use paper towels with some mineral spirits to go around and clean off the edges. You can now carefully remove the duct tape without pulling or pressing too hard on the acrylic. Remove the first layer of painters tape. Clean again with the paper towel and mineral spirits if needed. Remove the second layer of painters tape. You should now have a clean install.

12. If the windows are going to be in the sun and heat of the day, remove the paper backing now from both sides. If you don't it may bake to the acrylic and be very difficult to remove.

13. Re-tape the corners and the middles with duct tape to keep pressure on. I stretched the duct tape pretty tight at this stage just making sure not to squeeze any more sealant out around the edges. I then cross taped the tape ends to the gel coat. The duct tape, the butyl tape and the suction of the Sealant held the acrylic 24 hours till its cured enough to remove the tape.

Edited by - GrapeTX on 07/14/2014 18:33:32

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2014 : 18:32:00

This thread is worthless without pictures... ;)

Edited by - on

GrapeTX
1st Mate

Members Avatar

28 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2014 : 19:07:42

I got caught up in getting the work done that I forgot to take pictures as I went.

I purchased my sealant from a commercial sealant supplier called SSI. http://www.ssicm.com/ They are a regional company but I am sure there are similar sellers around the country.

Edited by - GrapeTX on 07/18/2014 07:22:07

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 07/15/2014 : 03:53:34

darn links broken... I was actually just wanting to drool over the work too...

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 07/18/2014 : 11:46:26

As one of the most common "problems" of the Capri 25, I am always happy when I see people take the time and fix it once and for all... the Metal framed windows are never permanently fixed... this is the only way to fix the problem permanently.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.