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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've bought the combination bow roller from CD. I realize now that it gets installed under & behind the rub strip. Can anybody give me some ideas how to r&r that strip. Any suggestions on r&r of the roller etc. would also be welcomed. I have a roller furler which I intend to fasten to the spot where the lifelines attach. thanks dick t
Dick & Coye Tripp 1981 SK/SR #2270 Windtamer Lake Mead NV
I have installed the Catalina factory upgrade bow roller and stem fitting on my 1979 C-25. I cut away a gap in the aluminum rubrail the width of the stem tang. I figure I'll slam a couple of self-tapping screws through the rail into the hull-deck seam if the cut ends ever show any tendancy to spread apart. So far, the ends haven't moved. I believe one of the other C-25 owners had a more elegant solution that didn't involve severing the rail. Maybe Bill Holcomb? Also, at least one of those new stem bolts was a bit tricky to get at from inside because of the anchor locker. That roller sure works great with a 22 lb. Bruce-style anchor!
I just put one of the new bow rollers on about 2 weeks ago. I took the aluminum rail off to about 3' back on both sides. This allowed it to droop enough to remove the one horizontal bolt attached to the hull. After filling the old holes, and installing the new bow roller, I used a dremel tool to grind away the rear edge of the aluminum channel where it interfered with the plate of the roller. I also drill hole in the channel where it passes over the new round screw head directly in the center. All this allowed the channel to go right back in place, using the same screw holes. I didn't have to sever it at the bow.
Hint. Use a heat gun to warm up about 6" of the rub rail at a time. That will make it flexible enough to slip back in using just your hands and a small flat blade screwdriver.
I did that modification last year. You don't have to cut the rub rail to do it. This first pic shows the bolt behind the rub rail. I drilled the head off and poked the bolt into the anchor locker. I did end up making a notch in the aluminum rub rail track with the drill bit. Installing the new stem fitting, I didn't put a bolt back in this hole. <img src="http://www.users.qwest.net/~jamason/Bow1.jpg" border=0>
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.