Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Greetings all, Well it's been an interesting summer learning how to sail my C25. So far so good. However a few days back I sailed a few miles out into the Atlantic and encountered a stiff breeze. Regarding the main sheet, is there a way to rig it so the release is a pull up instead of a pull down? Anyone else rig theirs that way? Many years ago I had an old Pearson Hawk that released 'up'. Thoughts anyone?
I guess it is possible to rig it as a pull up. Some of the blocks allow for reverse mounting the cam cleat on the block. Last year, I replaced my main sheet blocks with Harken Carbo blocks. I am pretty sure the instructions for the Harken mainsheet Carbo block with cam cleat has a section depicting how to pull the screws out of the cam cleat and reverse mount it. I forget which Carbo model series I have but I just checked on their website and they do have the instructions for all their blocks and a number of them have the section depicting how to reverse the cam cleat so it is a pull up verses pull down.
I guess it is also possible to reverse mount the whole block but some blocks do not allow for readjusting the angle that you release or lock the mainsheet in the cam cleat and it may prove not beneficial or workable in that mode. I believe many of the Harken Carbo blocks with cam cleats not only allow for reverse mounting the cam cleat but also for adjusting the angle that it releases and locks the mainsheet - Rcmd check the Harken website to ensure this and if limited to only some of the block configurations they manufacture.
If I understand what you want, part of the solution will be to reverse the direction of the sheet as it comes to the cam cleat. One way is to reverse the entire system so the sheet "starts" on the opposite end. The other might be to reduce the purchase by one, say from 4:1 to 3:1. Personally, I felt the purchase on my mainsheet was too great--too much rope having to be pulled and very little load, even in strong winds. Nothing says you have to use all of the sheaves.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Never considered this before...BUT...what if you reversed the locations of the two blocks, and put the block w/ the cams at the boom Could be a very bad idea...not really seeing well in my mind...
I have added a 15 inch pennant made out of rigging cable between the sled on the transom and the block with the cleat. to uncleat : slight pull down, to cleat: slight pull up. you can play with a heavy rope instead of the cable until you have the right height/angle...
Most fiddle blocks allow you to adjust the angle of the cam, and Harken ones let you flip it. I've always adjusted my Harken ones to release down, but with the cam tilted pretty far up because that gives me the best release angle.
They used to have the lower one with a ratchet too for an extra $20, but it looks like they are sold out.
That lower block allows you to adjust the cam release angle and flip the cam. They are also very nice blocks, a big upgrade from what was stock on the C-25. You will have an extra becket that you need to ignore or cut off.
Alex W Seattle, WA Express 37 "re-Quest" previously owned 1984 Catalina 25 "Lutra"
The blocks Alex listed are indeed an excellent choice, especially the fiddle block. I would add that if you do not need a 4:1 purchase, buy a 57mm single block with becket for the boom end. A Harken Airblock with becket will serve you very well. I like the Air blocks. They are lighter than the standard Harken blocks and have a large open space in the center of the block which is perfect for hanging your coiled mainsheet after a sail. The other thing that I would recommend is to place a 5/16" (doesn't need to be 3/8") high quality line between the boom end and the block that you would normally hang there. Adjust it so that the block is almost touching the fiddle block on the traveler when you are at the dock and the boom is centered, i.e. as when you are sailing close-hauled with the main sheeted all the way in. It will eliminate a lot of line that you would have to sheet in while gybing, essentially that length time 3 or 4 depending on your purchase. Try it, it really works!
DavidP 1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52 PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess" Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.