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Galley Drain

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 02/23/2016 : 11:15:21

Some may not like thru hulls, but I'm happy to have properly installed ones and have never had a failure. I do not believe that they compromise integrity and are the simplest solution; the issues are installation, inspection and maintenance. I just don't want newbies to constantly worry, but the volcanos should be replaced.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 02/23/2016 : 12:42:03

quote:
Originally posted by Bladeswell

Thanks Dave,
Great idea. I had not thought of that. And I suppose it wouldn't be any noisier than using a garbage disposal at home.

I just wouldn't run it within earshot of the harbor patrol or dockmaster... They could get the wrong idea!

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

VictorS
1st Mate

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Mexico
32 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2017 : 10:24:26

I will start my "To Hull" to "Through Hull" project; and as a newbie (I�ve read everything I found) of course have some initial questions:

(i) I am clear a bronze seacock is the way to go, but struggling on selecting the proper one. What are your suggestions on brands/models/sizes? Which is your preferred distributor?
So far I�ve found GROCO (https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/flanged-valves).
Shall we expect Discount sales for the 4th of July?

(ii) I only need this setup to drain the sink and the icebox, I would like to be ready for an additional hose if a new project arises later though. And I am also clear ball valves are the way to go, one per hose, right?

(iii) I am also clear SS clamps are the way to go; which type/specs of hoses should I go with?

(iii) Dave B, on another topic you wrote:"I just put lever actuated expanding plug in the icebox after determining that the internals of the flap valve had deteriorated. Its cheap and convenient, taking about 3 seconds to insert and lock or unlock and remove instead of standing on my head to reach a valve under the icebox." Can you please share details/pictures on that setup?

I found the video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9ZBrBWnNAs) shared by Wanderer13 in another topic quite clear for the process, I will follow it.

Will keep you posted on my progress, thanks.

Click to View Full Sized Image[/url]

Victor Salcedo
1978 C25. #453. FK. SR. L.
CTYK0453M78C

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4020 Posts

Response Posted - 06/26/2017 : 05:03:50

CD has the nylon thru hull upgrade and they are 3/4" https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/183/thru-hull-34-threaded.cfm If you want Bronze these should work just fine. Just check the lengh of the mushroom to make sure it is long enough.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1&id=3351998
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1&id=2762738

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 06/26/2017 06:54:18

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 06/26/2017 : 07:27:38

quote:
Originally posted by VictorS

(ii)...And I am also clear ball valves are the way to go, one per hose, right?

(iii) I am also clear SS clamps are the way to go; which type/specs of hoses should I go with?

(ii) Generally, there's one ball-type seacock attached to the neck of the thru-hull, with a flange that's screwed to a backing plate around the thru-hull for rigidity against pressure operating the valve. You can "T" off of that for two drains. The valve is primarily for safety--leave it closed when you're not using anything.

(iii)Two screw-type hose clamps per hose at the seacock (or T). Just buy them from a marine supplier--not a hardware store.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 06/26/2017 07:30:50

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4020 Posts

Response Posted - 06/26/2017 : 12:12:57

As Dave said, For the bronze flange ball valve you need backing blocks that are pieces of plywood so the flange has something to screw to. You can make your own or buy the ready made ones from CD.
https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/371_37/thru-hull-installation-kit.cfm

Hose clamp type, Make sure they are marked " All stainless" If they say just "stainless" They are no good! The band is stainless but the worm screw is not! Get them from a marine supply.

Hose type
Reinforced clear vinyl hose

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 06/26/2017 12:20:42

JanS48
Navigator

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USA
144 Posts

Response Posted - 06/28/2017 : 21:59:54

Greeting,
I'm a little confused as to what my 82 has for these hull fittings. I have plastic valves for both the galley and the head. I don't see any 'volcano' of material on the inside and the valves do open and close ok, a little stiff but working. They appear to be old. I leave the head valve open all the time and only open the galley cock when on the hook or anchored. After reading this thread I'm thinking of just dumping the ice chest drain in the bilge since it would be pumped out by the bilge pump. Anyone see any harm in going that route? Going forward I'm reluctant to even touch these valves till I can figure out what they actually are.
From the bottom of the boat they appear to be just a small hole in the hull.

Thanks
Jan

82 C25 SR FK
Sailing out of Newport Harbor.

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4020 Posts

Response Posted - 06/29/2017 : 12:32:58

Jan, Sounds like you have the black plastic valves that Catalina used after the volcano type. I have them also. You have a plastic flush thru hull that the valve screws on top of. You might not be able to see the outside edge of the thru hull due to bottom paint. They are ok but you do need to take care when opening and closing them. You don't want to break the thru hull.

The bronze flange type are a step up because when opening and closing you don't risk breaking the thru hull. If you don't open and close them say once a month then they can become frozen and that's when people have trouble. They apply too much force trying to get them to move and could break them off.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 06/29/2017 12:42:44

VictorS
1st Mate

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Mexico
32 Posts

Response Posted - 07/04/2017 : 08:43:56

Good morning.

What about cockpit drains To-Hulls, I think same criteria applies and those must be replaced also, am I right?

Thanks,

Victor Salcedo
1978 C25. #453. FK. SR. L.
CTYK0453M78C

Edited by - VictorS on 07/04/2017 08:57:13

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 07/04/2017 : 09:46:51

Agreed. Catalina changed from hoses going to the bottom, to holes through the transom (which we had in our '85). The only disadvantage I can think of is if maybe a swing keel in the down position makes the cockpit sole pitch slightly forward. (??)

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4020 Posts

Response Posted - 07/04/2017 : 10:42:40

Yes, I would change those also. That volcano set up is one of the dumbest things Catalina did.There are a few other things that will have you say, What the .... But first things first.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 07/04/2017 10:46:08

jmczzz
1st Mate

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USA
92 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2017 : 17:14:50

it is with a sinking heart and extreme knot in my gut that i just read this entire thread. I just relaunched my C25 SK with this dangerous type of galley drain. So what i would like to know now is what emergency material should I have handy until i can get her hauled out again. All I can think of is a mallet and a wooden plug.
anything else

1978 C25 SK SR # 808

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4020 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2017 : 18:03:43

You have the right idea and they actually sell an assortment of plugs for emergencies. May I also suggest having a few toilet bowl wax rings. They can be pushed into a hole and will conform to irregular shapes.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 07/10/2017 18:05:44

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2017 : 19:41:21

There are various conical wooden and foam plugs--many recommend having one taped next to every below-the-waterline thru-hull. I like this stuff:

Supposedly the towing services and USCG carry it. It might very well be very similar (or identical) to the wax rings used to install toilets. I have a can of this on my boat (no holes below the waterline). They have a website and video.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 07/10/2017 19:45:27

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2017 : 20:00:07

quote:
Originally posted by JanS48

Greeting,
I'm a little confused as to what my 82 has for these hull fittings. I have plastic valves for both the galley and the head. I don't see any 'volcano' of material on the inside and the valves do open and close ok, a little stiff but working.... From the bottom of the boat they appear to be just a small hole in the hull.

Thanks
Jan

Jan: My '85 had thru-hulls with flat, countersunk disks on the outside of the hull, with the same plastic ball valves and no volcano inside. The exterior disks, something like 3" in diameter, were made flush to the bottom, but I could see the outline around them. It's possible that bottom paint could obscure that.

If I still had the boat, I believe I'd have changed to Marelon thru-hulls with bronze seacocks (like below) on backing blocks. But I was in no panic about what was there--it just wasn't as robust as I would prefer. (There were a few other things on the boat I'd put in that category.)

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

jmczzz
1st Mate

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USA
92 Posts

Response Posted - 07/12/2017 : 06:01:04

thanks for the suggestions, Stinkpotter and islander.
I did examine the drain thru hull in April. It appeared to be solidly in place from the outside, the valves were free and opened and closed with normal effort. I tried to shake the valve and thru hull and it was tight and had no play. I did not know this was such an issue. Ignorance is not an excuse just a fact. My boat has always lived in fresh water. But I just relaunched in Kentucky Lake with plans to go down the Tenn-Tom to the Gulf in the fall. So the comment about sea water acceleration of deterioration of the drain pipe got my attention. I will get it hauled out and replaced ASAP. jmc

1978 C25 SK SR # 808

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4020 Posts

Response Posted - 07/12/2017 : 07:04:52

I wouldn't panic about it, They've been there for almost 40 yrs so chances are they will last a little longer but they should be top priority when you haul the boat. I would leave the valves open so there won't be any upward water pressure pushing against the closed valve.The water could act like a hammer going over a wave. Then I wouldn't touch them again. Obviously keep an eye on them.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 07/12/2017 08:17:31

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5361 Posts

Response Posted - 07/12/2017 : 19:10:08

I did myself a favor. I no longer use the ice chest for cold storage, but have an Igloo 3 day cooler instead. The galley sink is simply my phone, keys, radio, etc. holder even though I replaced the drain a few years back. I've plugged the galley drain through hull. I only use the head sink to wash hands/face or do some few dishes as needed. I see no reason to have two sinks on a 25 footer. I don't think I'm the only one who thinks so.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

VictorS
1st Mate

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Mexico
32 Posts

Response Posted - 07/17/2017 : 19:37:40

quote:
Originally posted by Stinkpotter

Agreed. Catalina changed from hoses going to the bottom, to holes through the transom (which we had in our '85). The only disadvantage I can think of is if maybe a swing keel in the down position makes the cockpit sole pitch slightly forward. (??)

I think I will get those bottom cockpit drains To-Hulls closed and will open new holes through the transom, any chance someone can share some pictures of that area? how much above the waterline those need to be? Thanks.

Victor Salcedo
1978 C25. #453. FK. SR. L.
CTYK0453M78C

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 07/18/2017 : 06:50:03

Catalina's transom drains are 1" holes in both corners right at sole level, which turns out to be high enough above the waterline that no special flapper or float-ball is needed. They made them with brass tubes like these ($9 at WM), flanged on both sides (one side after installation).

I once found plastic drain tubes that had a flange that was flat on one side so it would fit at tightly as possible to the sole. I think they had screw-on collars for the outside. Can't find them now.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 07/18/2017 06:58:30

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4020 Posts

Response Posted - 07/19/2017 : 14:08:57

You will need the flange tool to install the brass tubes. It can be bought online or if you get them from CD they loan you the tool.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

VictorS
1st Mate

Members Avatar

Mexico
32 Posts

Response Posted - 07/20/2017 : 08:07:21

Dave, Scott, thanks for the input.

Victor Salcedo
1978 C25. #453. FK. SR. L.
CTYK0453M78C

yachtsea
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2018 : 18:52:39

Ahoy,

86, SR/SK.

I was excited to get our boat replumbed for overnight anchoring this season and read more and more that I can appreciate or at least recognize why most of the plumbing was sealed off. Today, I was getting water from the fresh tank to the galley faucet (manual/original) and wondered where it drained, slowly. I only see one connection to the black holding tank from the head which makes sense to isolate, and then I saw a thru-hull beneath the alcohol stove which has a T that supports drainage directly from the galley sink and via check-valve? (pics for confirmation https://photos.app.goo.gl/NVE4sNxtlH8ZN8fp2) so I opened the black 90deg and it opened with relatively-low resistance, water egressed below (on a trailer for this), and I thought all was good. I closed the thru-hull valve, pumped more water into the sink and easily exceeded the volume of the drain hose so where was it going, opened the icebox and I see not-so-clean water. I reopened the thru-hull and it released a few bubbles but not enough to convince me this was working as advertised.

In the pictures, there appears to be a check valve. The pictures are a little misleading. There are two lines, the one on the left, closer to the bulkhead, is directly from the sink drain to the T that goes to the thru-hull whereas the inline device, I suspect a check valve, is supporting only a single line, the drain from the icebox to the other end of that T which both go to the thru-hull.

Blowing air down the drain of the icebox will be met with some resistance and eventually, bubbles and debris will appear in the galley sink. Likewise, water in the galley sink will find its way to the icebox via drain if the thru-hull is slow to drain or closed entirely. Snaking an insulated wire yielded nothing except that there does not appear to be a major obstruction.

What are concerns re: safety?
What could make this work better?
Is that an inline check valve device and are they notorious for failure?

Please and thanks,

Carl

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 04/29/2018 : 14:22:45

The check valve to the ice box is somebody's idea to prevent water sea/lake water from entering the box on a port tack. Check valves are generally a hindrance to the desired flow if there isn't some pressure (beyond gravity in a case with very little vertical "head"). Like Voyager Bruce, who now owns the boat, I never used the ice box for its intended purpose--a cooler was bigger and easier. I corked the drain hole. I also found that it helped to arrange the sink drain hose so it didn't have any upward loops to hold air that would have to be pushed down and out of the thru-hull. I added a block or two of wood to make a steady downhill run to the valve. I thought about removing the T and connecting the sink drain directly to the valve, but never got a round tuit. (You know what those are...)

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

sailboat
Navigator

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USA
149 Posts

Response Posted - 04/29/2018 : 21:57:08

I replaced all ours with 90 degree thru hull valves...actually three of them. Had to drill/saw out the old ones. Surprisingly the old gate valves still worked but I sleep much better now.

Mike
Chariots of Fire
1981 Cat-25. sail number 2230
SR/SK Dinette Version

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