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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have a bulb, steaming bulb I believe that may be burnt out. I haven't put up the mast yet, its still laying on the boat, but of course the base of the mast is many feet from where I would plug in the wire to test it...short of moving the mast way forward so I can plug it in, which will result in the mast probably tipping down to ground, do any of you use some kind of extended cable, or could I just take my batter and place it near the mast cable on a ladder and somehow connect the wires to check what lights up and doesn't? I feel like this is a pretty dumb question, but would still appreciate any insight, thanks.
I have used test wires with alligator clips to do just that. I believe if you just wanted to test the bulb, take it out and a 12V battery would do that. I would suggest that you get a meter if only to verify which terminal was used for each light and which one is ground. My boat has one ground wire for all three mast lights. I think it is common for the fixture(s) to oxidize to the point that they do not get good contact with the bulb, as mine did.
1988 WK/SR w/inboard diesel Joe Pool Lake Hobie 18 Lake Worth
Life is not a dress rehearsal. You will not get another chance.
This question has come up before and if I remember right some have used a 9 volt battery. It should light the bulb enough for testing. Here is the wiring diagram that shows the plug so you know what wire is what.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
I second the 9V battery test especially if it's a LED bulb, however if it's a 25W 12V incandescent light you could test it with an ohmmeter. The light when lit presents about 6 Ohms but when the filament is cold it'll measure between 1-2 Ohms. If the bulb is shot or if the light fixture is corroded then the Ohms will be approximately infinite, aka open circuit. BTW, I just had my mast down to replace the shrouds and stays. I checked all the lights, all the connectors, the sheaves and the halyards and the wind vane before I raised it up two weeks ago. Wouldn't you know it, now that it's back up my steaming/bow light no is longer working! I was getting a Vessel Safety Check by our local examiner and he flunked me for Nav lights! That's why they say "stuff happens"! I'm going to use my wooden ladder to replace the bulb and maybe I'll also replace the fixture too. Update: I just bought an Aqua Signal fixture for the bow light. This one should be virtually waterproof (it is gasketed) but I may need to use some bedding compoun on the mounting screws. If I use stainless screws then they will eventually corroded, I wonder if some aluminum pop-rivets will work better?
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.