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 Cockpit repair		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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wmkoines
1st Mate

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56 Posts
Initially Posted - 03/24/2003 :  08:04:20  Show Profile
Cockpit is soft and gelcoat seems to be lifting. The gelcoat has small hair line cracks. Any suggestions? I am under the impression that you should drill a series of holes into floor. Allow to dry and then “inject” resin into holes. I would assume that you would place a weight over the area and let set. Is this correct. How do you finish it after? Paint?

Thank you for any help.

C25 1661
Bill
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CatalinaGuy
1st Mate

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USA
55 Posts
Response Posted - 03/24/2003 :  09:40:04  Show Profile
I recommend you get a copy of Don Casey's book on Hull and Deck Repair before you proceed with this job. 'Soft' areas on the deck are not to be trifled with. Casey provides excellent instructions on how to deal with this.

Doug Hibberd, 'Shiraz'
C25 SK/SR 1983
Austin, TX
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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts
Response Posted - 03/26/2003 :  20:32:41  Show Profile  Visit John V.'s Homepage
I made this repair on my 77 C25 last year. I started as you have suggested by drilling holes in the cockpit floor. So much water came up that I went in with an inch and a half circle cutter in about six different places. I used a wet/dry vac to draw out the water which never seemed to stop. I finally decided to take a dremmel and cut out the cockpit floor along the anti skid line. The wood core was soaked but not rotted. I drilled a number of holes in the wood core and continued to draw water out with the vac. I was fortunate that it was a very dry June and we had about six days of clear hot weather which allowed that floor to dry out good. I cut a 3/4 in plywood plate that matched the shape of the floor. It was a real chinese fire drill working in the evening when the air was cool mixing a big batch of west epoxy (probably a quart and a half). we had 18 quarter in carriage bolts nuts and washers. With the epoxy spread and the cockpit floor back in place we laid down polyethelene plastic and then the 3/4 plate. I didn't feel that weight would be enough to assure a good bond so we drilled 18 holes all the way through and bolted the clamp plate in place and let it cure for a few days. It took a blowtorch and a hammer to take out the bolts but when the plywood clamp plate and plastic was removed the cockpit floor was firm and solid. I sanded all the irregularities cut and fit a layer of glass cloth, mixed another batch of West epoxy with some silica thickener and built up the floor and plugged the holes. When it was all done I had a strong waterproof cockpit. I painted the floor and made a new oak strip floor board that made the whole repair look very sharp.

I hope you don't have to go through the complete restoration that I had to, however when I started I thought it would be just a couple of holes and a little epoxy. I'll warn you that once you start to tackle water in the core area you can get into some real major work.
My result turned out very well but each time I dug in a little deeper the problem demanded a more radical solution. Let us know how it turns out.

John V. Nin Bimash II
77 C25 sk/sr #153



Edited by - John V. on 03/26/2003 20:35:56
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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts
Response Posted - 03/26/2003 :  21:49:35  Show Profile
If I am ever faced with this issue I would consider the logisitcs of correcting it from <i>below</i> the cockpit floor <img src=icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle>
Gougeon Brothers also has some very inexpensive, informative and helpful manuals on fibreglass repairs.
Good luck and share with us how you made the repair.

Edited by - OJ on 03/26/2003 21:54:06
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.