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Pulpit and Pushpit wire routing

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exf4gib
1st Mate

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USA
42 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/13/2017 : 21:07:18

Has anyone attempted drilling new wire ports in the pulpit and pushpit base plates? My C-25 bow running light wiring currently is routed through the anchor locker which typically is exposed to water. I'd like to reroute the bow running light wire out the aft mount to enter the V-berth ceiling which will require drilling. Would like to do the same for the stern "pushpit". I'm relocating my DC switch panel to above the starboard settee and plan to reroute the wiring along the starboard deck-to-hull mating area.

Arnie W.
85 C-25 TR/FK #4747 "Lifted"

Admin1
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Response Posted - 10/14/2017 : 04:45:28

Moved this post to the C25 forum

Association Forum Admin - admin1 at catalina-capri-25s.org

Lee Panza
Captain

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465 Posts

Response Posted - 10/14/2017 : 10:37:34

Arnie:

I ran wires up through my pulpit railing to a combo bow light that I hung from the railing. It was not difficult. I removed the railing assembly entirely in order to drill up through the baseplate, starting with a relatively small drill bit and enlarging the hole in several stages (stainless steel is quite tough, and cutting through it with a hand drill is challenging). After drilling that hole, and the exit hole at the front of the railing, I carefully de-burred both of them to prevent tearing the insulation of the wires. The hole down through the deck was easy to center between the screw holes, and it led to an easily accessible area in the V-berth just forward of the facia that hangs down from the head-liner to provide a concealed space for running the wires aft. I took the opportunity to bevel the tops of all of the screw holes through the deck, to eliminate any future leaks when I re-set the baseplates in bedding. The hole leading the wires through the deck has shown no water ingress.

For pulling the wires I pushed a relatively stiff wire through from the baseplate end. I formed a loop in the end of the fish-wire and wrapped tape around where the end bent back upon itself, so the splice would not catch on anything (I was afraid that the connection between the forward legs of the pulpit and the primary railing might be rough, but I did not feel any obstruction as I fished). I pulled the conductor wires through carefully to avoid damaging the insulation where they entered through the hole at the front, but they went through easily. The wires I used for the circuit are marine-grade, tinned, stranded wire (buy good wire for this, so it never has to be changed; I'd suggest GenuineDealz.com or Tinned Marine Wire.com). Install heat-shrink ring terminals at both ends, and I'd even recommend coating the terminals and connectors inside the light with dielectric grease as an additional precaution.

I can't offer any help on pulling through the pushpit railings because I don't think it's possible to run from the center of the railing down through a leg. I don't think the welded connections are hollow, although I haven't checked, but the joints are sharp angles so it would probably be difficult to pull around the corners.

You might mount your stern light directly on one of the legs. I'd recommend against mounting it on top of the pushpit, with a hole down through the top. That hole is likely to leak, and the light itself would be especially vulnerable to damage sticking up there. The problem would be getting the wires down through the combing around the cockpit. The area at the base of the aft legs is essentially inaccessible unless you cut access holes (I did, and I covered them with stainless steel louvered vent plates). Instead of running the wires internally I would recommend that you run the wires externally (multi-conductor cable sheathed in UV-resistant cover) to a penetration next to a baseplate. This saves the trouble of removing/replacing the pushpit railing. Wind the cable in a neat spiral down to a through-deck penetration next to the base of the leg. You'll still have the accessibility issue, though. I installed disconnects there, for my stern light cable and for the power cables coming down from a solar panel rack, because I need to remove the rack for trailering the boat (I mounted the stern light up on the same rack for visibility and for centering). If you want advice on waterproof disconnects I can provide that, but it's easier to seal the deck with a waterproof gland if it's a permanent penetration.

I think that's all I can offer. Hope it helps.

The trouble with a destination - any destination, really - is that it interrupts The Journey.

Lee Panza
SR/SK #2134
San Francisco Bay
(Brisbane, CA)

Edited by - Lee Panza on 10/14/2017 19:27:26

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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4020 Posts

Response Posted - 10/14/2017 : 12:36:01

Sounds like you did a nice job Lee. The only thing I could add is to leave some slack in the wire in case you ever have to replace a terminal. I agree on the pushpit not having open joints. There wouldn't be any reason for the welder to cut the holes since no wires were running through them.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5361 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2017 : 07:32:36

I replaced my stern pulpit/pushpit several years ago. I decided to mount my stern navigation light just below the rail on the starboard side pulpit stanchion pole nearest to the engine bracket. On Passage, there's a cable opening just below the rub rail for the engine starter cable. I ran a two wire 16-2 cable from the power panel through the quarterberth through the opening, then strapped it onto the outside of the stanchion. It's a short run up the stanchion pole. Nothing fancy.
For the bow navigation light I replaced the original old crusty wire with a new homerun 16-2 cable and used the old cable as a messenger line. Inside the anchor locker I ran the cable through a section of 1" PVC plastic pipe. I glued the pipe to the underside of the deck. This prevents the anchor from hooking the cable.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

exf4gib
1st Mate

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USA
42 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2017 : 20:58:38

Thanks all for your great advice! Lee, I like the idea of removing the pulpit and drilling out the aft starboard baseplate (I'm trying to keep the majority of my wiring routed starboard). Voyager's idea of using some PVC in the anchor locker certainly would better protect wiring in that location. I'd just prefer avoiding the locker entirely if possible. Also appreciate everyone's feedback on the "pushpit" wire routing topic. Will have to be creative to find a good location that's not obstructed by the outboard.

Arnie W.
85 C-25 TR/FK #4747 "Lifted"

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.