Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
So after I dropped my mast a few weeks ago to replace the windex, I put it back up and retightened the rigging. Nice, mission accomplished.
The last thing I did was rewrap the furler drum. Of course, I wrapped it in the wrong direction. I bent on my jib yesterday with a bit of struggle and pulled the furler to wrap it, then noticed something wrong. The sacrificial strip was on the inside not outside of the wrap! Arrrgh!
Since the drum was wrapped wrong way around, when I pulled on the line, it wrapped the furler and sail the wrong way too.
Now I can undo all my steps and pull down the sail, rewrap the furler line the opposite way, and re-raise the sail, but I’d prefer to somehow just redo the line on the furler drum.
I might be overthinking this, but is there an easier way to undo this without removing the jib? This could easily spiral out of control!
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
I don't know of an easier way, but it shouldn't be too difficult. Pull the jibsheet aft to cause the foot of the sail to lie along the gunwale. Lower the sail and flake it naturally along the gunwale. Let it lie there while you re-wrap the furler line, and then re-raise the sail.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
Bruce, At the end of the season unfurl the jib then mark the furling line at the drum with a marker. Remove the sail for storage then take the tail of the furling line and store it in the anchor locker leaving whats left on the drum. In the spring just line up the mark on the line with the drum and bend on your sail. No adjustments will be needed because the drum and wraps will be exactly the same as when you took the sail off. I also put my sails on yesterday. Perfect day for it. No wind.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
On the bright side, it's not as embarrassing as when a friend of mine pulled his hank-on jib up as we were taking his boat out in the midst of a J-24 fleet that was going out to race, and he had hanked it on upside-down! Talk about guffaws!
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
I've done that, but it's been awhile. See if these steps work for you. Remove the sheets. Pull the furling line until all the line is off the drum. Manually unwrap the jib. Wrap the jib the right way. Attach the sheets. Unfurl the jib as you would on the water. Furl the jib to verify it is fixed.
I've done that, but it's been awhile. See if these steps work for you. Remove the sheets. Pull the furling line until all the line is off the drum. Manually unwrap the jib. Wrap the jib the right way. Attach the sheets. Unfurl the jib as you would on the water. Furl the jib to verify it is fixed.
...See if these steps work for you. Remove the sheets. Pull the furling line until all the line is off the drum. Manually unwrap the jib. Wrap the jib the right way. Attach the sheets. Unfurl the jib as you would on the water. Furl the jib to verify it is fixed.
You also want a few extra turns on the drum to allow you to wrap the sheets around the sail after fully furling it, also allowing for the likelihood that you'll wrap the sail more tightly after you have the sheets attached so you can maintain some tension. I guess in Russ's process, that would mean a few turns before you attach the sheets.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Well like I had posited above I was way overthinking it. I disconnected the furler drum line then reversed the drum until the sail was fully unfurled, then kep on going until the sail was wrapped in the correct orientation. I removed the jib sheets and wrapped a line around the sail and spun it until the furler line was all the way back out on the deck. I gave the furled sail a few more spins to start the line on the drum, reattached the sheets and led the furling line back aft. I undid the wrap line and pulled on the jib and viola! Everything went back as normal. Now I’ve got three turns of jib sheet over the furled sail and my sacrificial strip is in the right place! Thanks to all
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Okey doke - now that that’s taken care of ... I’m looking to replace the furler line. It’s starting to fray at the cam clear, so I need to replace it.
I originally had a 3/16” or 1/4” Sta Set line - violet and yellow - but my local West M no longer carries the color combination. I happen to have some red and orange paracord. Will that work?
I have a Hood furler and I notice with 3/16” furler line that it just about fully loads the reel. If it were thicker, the furler would jam. So I need something thin but strong.
Problem is that thin line is rough on the hands. I could splice a thicker line to the thinner line but it might not run through the 3-4 smaller blocks along the gunwales. I could also buy a jacketed line and remove the jacket at 25 ft.
Suggestions? Hopefully some of my fellow boaters have come up with solutions.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Since what the PO had on there I could only describe as clothes-line, I used Dyneema cored line on my Harken II. I'm pretty sure I used 1/4" line.
The line really is too big to easily feed through the hole to knot off. So what I did was strip the cover back about 2' and knot that off.
This works well because the line is not exposed to the sun so I don't think the Dyneema is going to get killed that way very soon.
So yes, I'd suggest what you said: strip the jacket off the line at a distance that makes sense for you, and use the biggest line that will work with your blocks!
Also you made me paranoid with the genoa, I had to go up and check mine out to ensure I wasn't going to UV-kill my sail :)
Paracord is nylon and stretchy, not appropriate. Robbline, Regatta Braid, or Bzz dingy braid are all single braid dacron with far less stretch and extremely soft and easy on the hands. I went with 1/4" Regatta since harken recommends 1/4" or 5/16. I also tapered the first 6 feet (from the drum) since that portion is lightly loaded to get more wraps on the drum.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Yes, I checked out a length of paracord stretched across the deck and it was not right. So I’m looking at New England Ropes Sta Set in 5/16. I believe it will work fine at 70-80c a foot.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Bruce, My furling line was originally 5/16 but I replaced it with 1/4" That alone allowed me to get many more wraps on the drum so now I don't ever come up short when furling. I don't know if it is harder on the hands or not but I wear gloves and it isn't noticeable to me. Blue flecked line in the photo.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
!/4" Stay-set would be fine and softens considerably with time and extra wraps are really important. You always want a reserve because furling in different conditions often changes the tightness and number of turns. I was once about 3 ft short of a full furl in moderately trying conditions and not happy. I decided then to go with 1/4" and taper it. !/4 over 5/16 gives almost an extra wrap in each layer and and 5 wraps in the diameter of 4, easily 30% more line on the drum. Its probably slightly cheaper too.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
I figured like this. I have about 20 feet from the furler to the cockpit, then measured the excess leftover in the cockpit and I found I needed about 35 feet of line. So I purchased 1/4” Sta-Set line today at the West Marine sale.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
I'm not sure if this is pertinent , when I bought my boat it had a fairly new 135 on the furler , the uv strip had all these little tears in it of course the PO was baffled , when I took it to the sailmaker for repair he told me he sees this now and then and it's from putting the sail on backwards .
Wow! If you think of it, the last wrap of cloth is the roach. For furling sails, that section is projected by a UV cover strip. If the sail were wrapped the wrong way the cover would be on the inside. So the UV protection would be not be on the outside. That could definitely lead to the sail experiencing UV damage, or creating tears and rips.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.