Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I know this has been covered many times before, but...
"Wood Duck" is Hull # 2616, 1981, and has the cast iron ballast on the fin keel. The bolts seem fine (they need re-greasing), but the nuts and washers are quite corroded. There is still plenty to hold it all together (I think), no signs of strain or shifting around, but...
How much of a job is it to replace the nuts and washers (they are frozen onto the bolts, so removal is likely to damage the bolts too)?
Given likely damage to the bolts, how much of a job is it to replace the soft steel bolts with stainless bolts.
"Wood Duck" is presently on the hard, supported by five solid jack stands. At my house, far from the boatyard's cranes and jacks and lifters.
Has anyone tackled this job?
Am I worrying needlessly?
Should I just sell "Wood Duck" and buy myself that 30' Tartan I've been drooling over? (The syndrome is called "size creep".)
C'mon, just enjoy what agreat boat you HAVE. The new May 2003 Mainsheet magazine has a great article about keel bolts. C30 Tech Notes.
You do, of course, have membership in your national [pick a size of Catalina] association and you do receive the magazine on a regular basis (quarterly)
Edited by - Stu Jackson C34 No. 224 1986 on 05/19/2003 01:11:35
Edited by - Stu Jackson C34 No. 224 1986 on 05/19/2003 01:12:11
Is there enough room to get a nut splitter in there ?
A nut splitter slips down over the bolt, has a sharp wedge and a bolt that tightens it against the nut, Cuts them off without damaging the bolt. Here's a link if you want a look.
Hi, I had seriously corroded keel bolts. They were about the size of a number 2 pencil, rusted to a solid mass. This was the only flaw found during survey when I bought the boat.
I had 6 new 3/4 inch holes bored into the keel (with the boat in the water), threaded, and new 316 stainless bolts driven in about 6 inches, epoxied, and then stainless bolts and washers tightened down. The old rusted bolts were treated with oxalcylic acid, and then covered with tar.
I love the result - I have 12 keel bolts (since the old ones were still holding). The bilge is dry and I have no fears about the keel.
Total cost of the job was $900. You could do it yourself, but the man I employed had a special drill press and lots of experience in keel bolt repair.
Many thanks for the suggestions. I have decided "Wood Duck" will treat me kindly with its present keel bolts for another season, then in the Fall I will do the serious work suggested above.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.