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To-hull replacement question

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CB
1st Mate

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Initially Posted - 05/19/2003 : 13:19:26

Boat is in the yard, so I was going to replace my to hull fitting (1) w/ a bronze (maybe brass, not sure) thru-hull fitting. The to-hull is in their pretty tight. There is no "volcano" type fiberglass formation inside the boat(replaced before?) and as mentioned, it feels very secure.
The boat yard says that it's fine and I shouldn't remove it.
If I do remove it, what type of sealant/epoxy should I use w/ the metal replacement thru hull?
Thanks,
Chris
'81 sr/sk

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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6855 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2003 : 13:30:12

What type of valve do you have on the current fitting. If it doesn't look like the valve on your house for the garden hose, there is a good chance it was already replace.

Also, what does the hole in the side of the boat look like? Is there anything attached on the outside of the boat, or is there a part of the fitting on the bottom/hull area? If there is, I would bet its already been replaced.

To answer your questions - If you need to actually cut a hole in the boat to remove the prior fitting, you will need to re-fiberglass the area with West-System fiberglass epoxy resin or a similar product. If your in Saltwater, look into the plastic through hull fittings.

dw

D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/dreamimages/Flags/measurer.jpg" border=0>

Edited by - Duane Wolff on 05/19/2003 13:33:53

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luckystar
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236 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2003 : 13:44:01

Catalina direct sells the new thruhull in plastic for a reasonable price. you can also get the new ball valve/seacock from them. When I noticed that there was a small gap on the outside of my old tohull during my bottom job, I decided not to replace as it was still a strong fitting with the newer marelon valve on the inside and also considering it's just a drain for the seldom used vanity sink. I used my dremel tool with a 1/4" grinding head and ground out a 1/4" all the way around the old to hull pipe adn 1/4" or a little more deep into the fiberglass hull. I found no rotting or delamination evidence and felt pretty confident that I'd taken the right approach. I filled the ground out void with west system epoxy with colloidal silica filler. I makes a nice paste. I plugged the pipe and then pressed the paste into the ground out well around it will a plastic fillet (you can get them at auto parts stores by the bondo). I waited overnight for the epoxy to set really well, sanded a little to smooth and etch it a little, I then faired it to the hull with fairing compound and bottom painted. That thing is going nowhere and will give me no trouble!!

Patrick Burnett, Little Rock, AR
S/V Lucky Star #2707 1982 SK/SR<br>
<img src="http://www.proxycreative.com/clients/luckystar/luckystar_0602_sm.jpg" border=0><br>
http://www.proxycreative.com/luckystar.html

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CB
1st Mate

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Response Posted - 05/19/2003 : 14:09:19

I'm in freshwater, and it does still have the old style "knob" type valves. I've already bought the some new gate/ball type valves at West Marine that I was going to install.
As far as the outside, there is nothing. It's just a hole in which the to hull pipe is embedded.
Chris

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luckystar
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Response Posted - 05/19/2003 : 15:28:01

Yeah, it will be best if you just do the whole job if you're going to be replacing with the gate/ball valve. I hear that the best thing to do about getting the pipe out is to grind down a little on the inside and then tap it out with a mallet (be careful not to hit so hard that you take hull out with it) A little twisting motion with some vice grips might be a good way to loosen it up too. Good luck. I'll check my fix often and in two years when I pull out to touch up the bottom, I may end up doing the full repair, just for piece of mind, although as I'd said, I feel confident that my fix is going nowhere!

Patrick Burnett, Little Rock, AR
S/V Lucky Star #2707 1982 SK/SR<br>
<img src="http://www.proxycreative.com/clients/luckystar/luckystar_0602_sm.jpg" border=0><br>
http://www.proxycreative.com/luckystar.html

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CB
1st Mate

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Response Posted - 05/20/2003 : 14:56:19

Was up in the yard this morning, and my to-hull unscrewed from the hull with little effort, and no mess. My main question now, when putting in a bronze mushroom type thru-hull, can I just use some 3M 5200 or does it need to be glassed/epoxied into the hole?
Thanks,
Chris

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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6855 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2003 : 15:22:18

Not to recommend one way or the other because in my mind they will both work okay - If you do use 5200 be sure not to tighten the fitting all the way down until after it sets up. That is, leave it hand tight , allow it to set up and begin curing, then clamp it down with wrenches or other tools. It will form a better seal.

dw

D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/dreamimages/Flags/measurer.jpg" border=0>

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