Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Does anyone have any advice about removing teak oil stains from gelcoat? A thunderstorm came up before the oil dried and left some nasty stains behind.
In his book, Don Casey says that it's almost impossible to remove teak oil stains. I'm pinning my hopes on the word "almost". Thanks.
I assume you have tried soft scrub, BonAmi, or even Ajax. I recomend trying a paste of Oxalic acid. Find it at your local hardware store read directions and be carefull.
I had the same experience with teak oil and rain. And the only solution I found that worked was TIME. After a long time the stain went away. I switched to West Marine's Wood Pro.
Ed Montague on 'Yahoo' 1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~
Thanks, Derek, Doug, and Ed, for your help. I'll give these a try.
Interestingly, I had planned to switch to Cetol as a result of reading previous posts on the topic. However, I bent to local pressure in favor of continuing to use teak oil (literally at the last minute) from some other boat owners at my marina.
I seem to recall an Aesops fable about trying to please everybody...
Tom, when I was using teak oil I found that Bon Ami worked pretty well at removing stains. If things were really tough, I used acetone.
All things considered, I really don't like the looks of Cetol. It's decidedly artificial in appearance. For three years I used Armada (identical to Cetol). For two years I used teak oil, but hated oiling the teak every time I went to the boat. This year I did the hard thing: removed the teak and put on seven coats of West Marine Skipper varnish. Oh, my, what a difference! I have easily the best brightwork in the marina.
Yes, the initial seven coats are work. After that, it requires a coat in the Spring and a coat in the Fall, which is what Cetol requires. If I'm going to coat twice a year anyhow, why not use real varnish?
Any way, it works for me. And so far, it's just as hard and durable as Cetol.
Thanks. I'm beginning to believe there is a cure. I'm heading back to the gulf in two weeks and will be able to try these ideas. Thanks, again, for your advice!
This spring when scrubbing down the deck, discovered that the mildew cleaners work really well getting stains out. It worked especially well on the dimpled non-skid areas and around the grab rails where I got sloppy rubbing on the teak oil. Just slopping some teak oil on is sooooo much easier than varnish or other products and the added plus is that it doesn't make grab rails slippery.
Paul C25FK Sparky 'PZ' W7JVY KFS/KTK/KLB/KOK/WNU/KPH/WCC/VAI/VAJ
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.