Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hello all, Our 250 WK #421 is in Marina Bay, Richmond in SF Bay. When we are sailing in pretty good wind (15 mph +) It has occured to me that it would be a disaster if the wheel controled rudder's linkage would fail as was talked about here a few months ago. I have the push/pull "Morse" type cable and am concerned. Should I have this changed toot sweet to a pull/pull - pully cable type system. There is considerable effort required to hold a course sometimes which make me feel that there is considerable force on the rudder's system. I only think about it when we are heeled over pretty good and in close traffic. Thanks. CW
Chris... I have written a good bit on this issue and am providing a kit for those who want to get away from the cables and go to an open cable system...
Details are on my web site.
In a nut shell, the system can be inspected for the propensity of one type of failure. That being if there are hash marks made from pliers around the area of the outside bend on the cable jacket... If hash marks exist, the failure of the cable could definately occur. The PVC jacket is integral to holding the longitudinal wires within in place. We normally think of cables with spiral wound layers... the wires in the jacket are not spiral wound and can seperate if the covering is compromised and if this happens the inner cable will pooch out.
The other prone failures are the loosening and releasing of a set screw low in the pedestal that holds the cable jacket in place. Last, at the stern, the output shaft of the cable has shown some propensity to bend if under very heavy loads. If it bends, it may simply result in increased drag (was my problem) or it could bind altogether.
Again, look to my site for much more about the steering cables.
No... the mod can be performed while on the water. The rudder and rudder arm do not need removed. It doesn't use the bolts around the steering arm boot for mounting... My mod bolts thru the bottom of the fuel locker so no stern action is required.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.