Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Ok Folks, I LOVE tiller tamers because they work well for their designed purpose. I HATE tiller tamers because on every boat where I have installed one, the lines are a big pain in the a**, or more specifically the shins. My question is this... has anyone installed one far enough aft on the tiller that the lines can be tied off on the bracing for the rail seats? My thoughts are that this could minimize their interference in the cockpit but may be less than effective that far back on the tiller. Willy
I have a C25, but I installed the lines to the inner stanchions of the stern pulpit and the "tamer" about two-thirds of the way forward on the tiller (matching the minimum dimensions specified in the instructions). My Tiller Tamer is working perfectly with this configuration, doesn't interfere at all with the space in the cockpit, and I also LOVE it.
J.B. Manley, Antares '85 FK/SR #4849 Grand Lake O' The Cherokees, NE Oklahoma
I got the hiking stick with the big knob on it, and the corresponding keyhole recess in the coaming. Unless there's something the wire version does that mine doesn't, I recommend it. (No mess...) Also, you can steer from a perch in great comfort with the stick.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Unless there's something the wire version does that mine doesn't, I recommend it.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
It keeps about $100 in your wallet. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> You can keep another $25 and have a less obtrusive setup by running shock-cord from two points well aft on the rails, with 2-3 turns around the tiller. To engage, pull the turns forward on the tiller to tension the cord. To disengage, push the turns aft on the tiller to slacken the cord. While engaged, you can temporarily correct course by pushing or pulling the tiller against the shock cord, or change the tiller setting by rotating the wraps.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>It keeps about $100 in your wallet. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Objection your honor.....the hiking stick is installed for added steering functionality and comfort, and is a separate issue. The lock box, which is the "tamer" part only adds $24.00 to the equasion.
My experience (I have hiking stick and a home brew tiller tamer) is that the tiller tamer works better longer. The hiking stick has no "give" to it once it's set. One version of tiller tamer I use is rope to an eye bolt dropped thru the hole that the tiller tamer goes in. The ends of the rope are looped with taut line hitches so the tiller can be adjusted left/right. Those loops go thru another loop of shock cord around the forward pulpit stancions. This works very well, especially on close reaches. The lines are a little bit in the way if you need to get all the way aft though.
Paul C25FK Sparky 'PZ' W7JVY KFS/KTK/KLB/KOK/WNU/KPH/WCC/VAI/VAJ
Wow! Lots of great ideas! Really guys once again I am thrilled by the resource of this sight. Anyway... Since I already have an extendable extender I am not going to use Oscars method as it would mean buying a new one. I have never seen a lock box for the white one with the black rubber ball that I own. (the manufacturers name escapes me. The Davis tiller tamer I almost bought this weekend has given me some concerns as it would mean my present tiller cover would not fit over it once installed. I will probably try Dave's plain shock cord wrap this weekend as it will take very little cash to try, require no permanent installation, and if it is not successful I can always find a use for extra cord. I'll keep you posted (next Tuesday)! Willy
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> The Davis tiller tamer I almost bought this weekend has given me some concerns as it would mean my present tiller cover would not fit over it once installed.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
I ripped the underside of my tiller cover from just forward of the tamer aft and now tie two pieces of line, one just behind the tamer and one just forward of the rudder mount, to hold the cover in place.
J.B. Manley, Antares '85 FK/SR #4849 Grand Lake O' The Cherokees, NE Oklahoma
Well Folks the shock cord idea worked fine! I bought a bag of varying lengths and the 32" did the job and even had pre-attached plastic hooks which fit over the railseat stanchions perfectly. It also holds my tiller (when wrapped on the outside of the cover) perfectly centered when not in use. I never liked bungeeing the thing to the stanchion as I had concerns about the end banging up my gelcoat when the boat rocked. No holes drilled, no problem with the cover, & ultra cheap! Willy
The K.I.S.S. principle works its magic again...<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle> Derek
I use the Tiller Extention as Tamer. A Quick Mount is attached to the coaming and the tiller can be fixed in fine increments in oder to steer strait left or right. Check out the video on the Homepage. I use the Model B http://www.skipfriend.it/
I took a page from Oscar's book and installed a Forespar tiller extension and a lockbox. The lockbox <u>just</u> fit next to the opening in the combing. The cutout only goes into the combing box so it doesn't affect the cabin liner at all. The tiller extension is the quick-release model and pops out only when you want it to. I single-handed for the first time today and the tiller extension & lockbox made it very enjoyable! <img src="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/davendeb/misc/lockbox.jpg" border=0>
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.