Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
She's our first sail boat and we are hooked. The original owner is no longer available and I have come up with a couple more questions.
How in the world do you adjust the tubular turnnbuckles?
I want to install a jib downhaul. there is a small (tiny) block at the base of the forestay where I assume the line for the downhaul runs. How does the line run the rest of the way to the cockpit (blocks, cleats etc.).
Never tried a nail, but concur with Steve on the ice pick, cheap too. The item I use now is the awl that came with my Craftsman screw driver set, small and fits in my tool box nicely.
Thanks for the ideas, I was hoping there would be some great piece of nautical equipment that I needed to buy. How did Catalina intend for the turnbuckles to be adjusted (5 penny finish nail or ice pick. ha ha)? It seems hard to believe such a great boat would have such a strange piece of equipment.
<i>[quote] Thanks for the ideas, I was hoping there would be some great piece of nautical equipment that I needed to buy. How did Catalina intend for the turnbuckles to be adjusted (5 penny finish nail or ice pick. ha ha)? It seems hard to believe such a great boat would have such a strange piece of equipment.
Scott</i>
Wow you are hard to please. How much more nautical can you get than marlin spike and fid (phid).<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>
Scott: If you REALLY want to buy something nautical that solves your problem, try bronze, open-body turnbuckles! <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> I hate the closed ones--I can't really see how they're set, I don't trust the lock nuts (with good reason), and they like to hold seawater. I had them on another boat and filled them with lithium grease. Our boat has open bronze units--I don't want to ever go back.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I want to install a jib downhaul. there is a small (tiny) block at the base of the forestay where I assume the line for the downhaul runs. How does the line run the rest of the way to the cockpit (blocks, cleats etc.). <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Hi Scott,
Here is how I've rigged my jib downhaul and run the line back to the cockpit. The dousing line is 1/4" StaSet color-coded to match the jib halyard. 1) Bowline knot tied to the jib halyard eye, 2) line run through turning block shackled to headstay stem fitting, 3) stanchion-mounted fairlead mounted 1/4 of the way up from deck on the first-forward, port stanchion, 4) stanchion-mounted turning block mounted 1/2 way up the next aft, port stanchion, 5) line threaded through most forward handrail grip to AFT side of outboard sheave of port deck organizer, 6) forward around sheave and back outboard side of sheave (note: this causes the dousing line to cross itself aft of the sheave, but chafing is minimal due to minimal loading and use), 7) straight back to outboard clutch on port triple clutch (note: jib halyard occupies center clutch on port triple clutch).
Another way to run the jib downhaul line is to install small bullet fairleads right on the cabintop sides. It may be less expensive than buying the stanchion blocks. Since you only use it for downhaul, you can just flake the line or get a small cleat to hang the tail end on at the end of the day.
Using the jib downhaul: a nifty little trick is to heave to starting from a port tack. That way the wind backwinds the jib from the starboard bow. Since the hanks are on the port side of the sail, when you drop the jib it should fold neatly on deck when you use the downhaul. This saves a step in folding the sail, if you only take it down when heading up into the wind.
Stu
Edited by - Stu Jackson C34 No. 224 1986 on 09/16/2003 12:02:51
When you try to loosen/tighten your barrel turnbuckles, you will probably find them hard as the devil to get started. Get a tube of NeverSeize. It is a kind of grease with copper and graphite in it. A little in the threads will insure that you have an easy time of adjusting.
It also prevents "corrosion welding", you know, when you put stainless screws into aluminum, etc. A little NeverSeize prevents that. It also makes screwing self-tapping screws much easier.
I learned about this stuff back in my Corvair and VW dune buggy days. It even worked on exhaust manifold nuts!
Jim Williams Hey Jude C25fk 2958 Half Moon Bay, CA
This is wonderful stuff.. this is truly INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH stuff... HOWEVER.. be very sparing with it... one stray dollop will contaminate everything within 100 yards with oily graphite residue.
Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family, '78 Catalina 25
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Thanks, we are headed to West Marine today in Portland (5 hours)...<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Five hours to the Evil Empire?!? Where do you live--the Sargon System? West is two directions for us--about three miles west, and a about five miles east. (Sounds like arguing about what the definition of "is" is.)
A dousing line doesn't need a lot of blocks and fairleads--it takes almost no load. You could run the jib douser around the outside of your stanchions to a little cleat (cam, clam, or horn) on the coaming--the stanchions won't create any drag on the line. I hate drilling holes in the fiberglass if there's another solution, and I hate shelling out boat units for fancy hardware for a line that can easily run and be out of the way without it. You might want to add one or two little blocks, but they can be the simplest shackle-types attached to the stanchion bases. That would be for a jib douser, and is the way my genoa furler line runs. I must admit my mainsail dousing line goes through one sheave in an expensive deck organizer to an expensive rope clutch. <img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle> But that's because the hardware is there--it's essentially overkill.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> ...and I hate shelling out boat units for fancy hardware... <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Harumph, I'm not completely sure, Penelope, but I think that chap's just slighted me. Say here, good fellow. No need to be nasty, now is there.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> You could run the jib douser around the outside of your stanchions... <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Chacun a son gout. [Thanks, Derek. I really love that saying.]
Hi Sunshine, I bought the Spinlock Fairlaeads that Anteres pictured to reroute my Furling line. They work super! I now have the furling line running on the outside od the stanchions. Before thaat they were blocks shackeled to the stanchion supports. This left the line lay in the middle of the deck. Every time I went foreward my foot slipped sideways ... not a good plan for a guy with titanium knees! I used an SL1 for the run down the side and an SL2 on the first stern pulpet stanchion to turn the furling line forward to a cleat. I'm sure that a downhaul would not need a lot 'enginering' to be able to handle the load ... somewhere I read that the stanchion supports could act as a fiarlead ... might give it some thought. Anything, just keep it off of the deck.
Good Luck, Fair Winds.
Bill jaworowski, Moonbeams. C25 SK/SR #4953 Sailing Lake Carlyle, IL.
I didn't have time to browse everyones posts, but the block on the deck forward is for the foreguy (sometimes called pole downhaul). Usually used for sailing a tri-radial spinaker, the block should work for what you want.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.