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 Another rub rail question...
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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/25/2003 :  15:41:09  Show Profile
My rub rails are dirty but don't really bother me. However, they are 22 years old and have become hard. In addition, I believe they are the source of most of the remaining leaks I have been unable to track down. So I want to remove and replace them, and use that opportunity to fix the leaks.

Has anyone done this? I assume I go to Cat Direct for new rub rails. How much of a job is it, and what should I look out for?

Thanks,


Dave on "Wood Duck" (#2616 - SR, FK)

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2003 :  15:46:38  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
My rub rails are dirty but don't really bother me. However, they are 22 years old and have become hard. In addition, I believe they are the source of most of the remaining leaks I have been unable to track down. So I want to remove and replace them, and use that opportunity to fix the leaks.

Has anyone done this? I assume I go to Cat Direct for new rub rails. How much of a job is it, and what should I look out for?

Thanks,


Dave on "Wood Duck" (#2616 - SR, FK)

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

Ditto

#2790-sr,sk

<img src="http://members.cox.net/fhopper/Catalina25/sigbow.jpg" border=0>Frank and Martha in Wichita KS. Lake Cheney

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cch
Navigator

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202 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2003 :  21:12:46  Show Profile
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
My rub rails are dirty but don't really bother me. However, they are 22 years old and have become hard. In addition, I believe they are the source of most of the remaining leaks I have been unable to track down.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

Dave,

I never really thought about the rub rail as a source for leaks. Thanks for the idea. I am going to check it out and see if that is where that water is coming from.

Chris Hunsicker
Panama City FL
Moonglade
80 C25 #2126 sr/sk
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d636b3127cce8c9d4c83e7890000002010" border=0>

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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2003 :  22:22:25  Show Profile
Speaking of rub rail-oriented leaks, this is pretty funny.

I kept getting water into my sail locker on port and dripping into the quarterberth from the access panels on starboard. So, I checked and checked and checked; winches, stanchions, cleats, etc. Finally, I figured that it must be the rub rail/hull/deck seams and water must be getting in while heeled. Therefore, I tightened every hull/deck seam nut I could reach and caulked as much of the seams, as well. Still, water kept getting in and soaking sails, life jackets, lines and cushions.

Well, the filtered lake water at the slip got funky with algae, or something, mid-summer and severely stained a number of boats. (BTW, FSR works wonders.) So, I immediately quit using the dock water and started hauling up buckets of lake water for Antares' weekly bath. Funny, no more leaks -- until two weeks ago when the dock water got back to normal and I decided to rinse Antares with the hose. Sail locker and sails soaking wet, quarterberth and cushions soaking wet.

<img src=icon_smile_angry.gif border=0 align=middle> Now, what the ____? What was it about the hose that had been missing from the bucket rinses?

Oh, yeah. My habit of spraying copious amounts of high pressure water into the coamings boxes to wash out the spiders, damselflies, dirt and algae. Hmmm, sure enough, there's a big old wide open seam that runs all the way around the top of the coamings boxes and not a bit of caulking to be seen. <img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle>

J.B. Manley
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d609b3127cce8d2e212441c60000008010" border=0>
Antares '85 FK/SR #4849
36°29'58" -94°59'59"

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timmvorz
Deckhand

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USA
3 Posts

Response Posted - 10/04/2003 :  01:02:41  Show Profile
What is the coamings box?

Tim
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Speaking of rub rail-oriented leaks, this is pretty funny.

I kept getting water into my sail locker on port and dripping into the quarterberth from the access panels on starboard. So, I checked and checked and checked; winches, stanchions, cleats, etc. Finally, I figured that it must be the rub rail/hull/deck seams and water must be getting in while heeled. Therefore, I tightened every hull/deck seam nut I could reach and caulked as much of the seams, as well. Still, water kept getting in and soaking sails, life jackets, lines and cushions.

Well, the filtered lake water at the slip got funky with algae, or something, mid-summer and severely stained a number of boats. (BTW, FSR works wonders.) So, I immediately quit using the dock water and started hauling up buckets of lake water for Antares' weekly bath. Funny, no more leaks -- until two weeks ago when the dock water got back to normal and I decided to rinse Antares with the hose. Sail locker and sails soaking wet, quarterberth and cushions soaking wet.

<img src=icon_smile_angry.gif border=0 align=middle> Now, what the ____? What was it about the hose that had been missing from the bucket rinses?

Oh, yeah. My habit of spraying copious amounts of high pressure water into the coamings boxes to wash out the spiders, damselflies, dirt and algae. Hmmm, sure enough, there's a big old wide open seam that runs all the way around the top of the coamings boxes and not a bit of caulking to be seen. <img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle>

J.B. Manley
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d609b3127cce8d2e212441c60000008010" border=0>
Antares '85 FK/SR #4849
36°29'58" -94°59'59"
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>


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Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1771 Posts

Response Posted - 10/04/2003 :  10:47:42  Show Profile
<font color=blue>What is the coamings box? - Tim</font id=blue>

Hi Tim,

Here is a photo of the coaming compartment ... it's the storage compartment in the upper left part of the photo:

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3db39b3127cce881568aef7730000001610" border=0>

'Hope that helps ... welcome to the group!

Buzz Maring
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df23b3127cce9306a9b3abad0000001010" border=0>
~~Freya~~
C-25 SK/SR #68

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matsche
Captain

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USA
280 Posts

Response Posted - 10/04/2003 :  11:10:10  Show Profile
I too would be interested in hearing from someone who's replaced their rub-rail. Is the CD source good for this? All I know about it so far is that it's best to do the work on a hot summer day when the material is more easily bent.

John Matsche 1985 TR/FK #5171

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nate
Navigator

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240 Posts

Response Posted - 10/06/2003 :  12:17:07  Show Profile
I recently replaced my rubrail insert while doing a refit on my boat. The job was easier than I expected. I got the replacement insert from CD (tan to match the original color...they also sell gray). I coated the whole rubrail with 303 Protectant in an effort to provide more UV protection.
The old rubrail came out very easily after I removed the two screws that afix each end. Next I washed all the junk out of the track and set the new rubrail in the sun to soften it up...that didn't take long here in Vegas. ( Just an aside, the reason I hauled out in summer was to avoid missing the cooler weather of fall/winter here in the desert.) To install the new rubrail, I laid the piece along the deck and simply worked the insert into the track, placing the upper edge in the slot and then pushing the lower edge into place by hand. It was a little hard on the thumbs but I found I didn't need the rubber mallet at all. I worked all the way around the boat and once back to the transom I cut the slop off and secured it with the same screws. Done! I think the replacement reallt looks great and is worth the $90.00 I spent on the replacement.

Nate Adams
C25 #5695 WK/SR/Trad
"Heeling Properties"
Lake Mead, NV



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matsche
Captain

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USA
280 Posts

Response Posted - 10/06/2003 :  12:41:38  Show Profile
Great post Nate. Very helpful. Thanks.

John Matsche 1985 TR/FK #5171

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Kirk McKay
Navigator

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USA
111 Posts

Response Posted - 10/06/2003 :  16:51:58  Show Profile
I may have some info on this soon,(more than I wanted) as my port side rail took quite a beating durring Isabell. We'll see what the insurance folks say...

Kirk

Edited by - Kirk McKay on 10/06/2003 16:53:34

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CatalinaGuy
1st Mate

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USA
55 Posts

Response Posted - 10/06/2003 :  18:16:58  Show Profile
On coaming boxes: I've suspected those big open seams inside of leaking after hosing for some time. I'm going to caulk with 5200 and see if that works.

On Rub Rail Install: I used the end of a paint mixing stick to push the bottom of the insert into the moulding. Saves a lot of wear and tear on hands.

On Rub Rail Leaking: I would be very surprised oif leaks were getting into the boat from the rub rail moulding. The screws are driven horizontally into the deck. Water would saturate the deck core before getting into the inside of the boat.

Doug Hibberd, 'Shiraz'
C25 SK/SR 1983
Austin, TX

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