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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

keel winch repair

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premodco
Deckhand

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USA
22 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/19/2003 : 23:57:10

About a month ago I posted that while I was lowering the keel, I heard a "ping" and then the winch wanted to free wheel down and would not stop until the keel was fully lowered. When I cranked it up, I had to tie off the handle to keep it from unwinding. As you all know, you can barely see the winch to examine it. The Catalina Direct book gives a good explanation of how this clutch type winch with no manual release operates. After reading that the internal parts do fail and folks on the board reminding me that the winch is 20 years old, I bought a new winch and just installed it. I took the old winch home and started to examine it. The problem? The bolt that holds the ratch paw loosened a bit and allowed the paw to move laterally so that it did nor engage the gear. That was it. Tighten the bolt and winch works. I did notice that the winch showed some wear. So if the same thing happens to you, try to check that bolt...nearly impossible without taking the winch off. I can say that when that thing started free wheeling it could have smashed anything in its path. Hope this helps.

adam starr

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 10/20/2003 : 10:17:57

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
About a month ago I posted that while I was lowering the keel, I heard a "ping" and then the winch wanted to free wheel down and would not stop until the keel was fully lowered. When I cranked it up, I had to tie off the handle to keep it from unwinding. As you all know, you can barely see the winch to examine it. The Catalina Direct book gives a good explanation of how this clutch type winch with no manual release operates. After reading that the internal parts do fail and folks on the board reminding me that the winch is 20 years old, I bought a new winch and just installed it. I took the old winch home and started to examine it. The problem? The bolt that holds the ratch paw loosened a bit and allowed the paw to move laterally so that it did nor engage the gear. That was it. Tighten the bolt and winch works. I did notice that the winch showed some wear. So if the same thing happens to you, try to check that bolt...nearly impossible without taking the winch off. I can say that when that thing started free wheeling it could have smashed anything in its path. Hope this helps.

adam starr
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Thanks for the info, that is the kind of tip that saves people a lot of time and money. I look forward to more posts from you..

<img src="http://members.cox.net/fhopper/Catalina25/sigbow.jpg" border=0>Frank and Martha in Wichita KS. Lake Cheney

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Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1768 Posts

Response Posted - 10/20/2003 : 10:27:56

Hi Adam,

I agree with Frank ... I appreciate the update you gave us on your keel winch. Before I put my boat in the water I replaced the keel cable, turning ball, etc., and I gave the winch a good inspection ... I don't remember how the ratchet mechanism worked ... now I know what to look for if I ever have a problem similar to the one you had.

My keel winch is in great shape ... those of us who keep our boats in fresh water are lucky that we don't have to deal with salt corroding everything.

Thanks again for the tip!

Buzz Maring
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df23b3127cce9306a9b3abad0000001010" border=0>
~~Freya~~
C-25 SK/SR #68

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lcharlot
Master Marine Consultant

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Antigua and Barbuda
1301 Posts

Response Posted - 10/24/2003 : 10:09:52

Considering the load on this winch is 800 pounds when the keel is fully up, and the consequences of a failure - possible immediate sinking of the boat - I would not try to "repair" the winch, especially one more than 20 years old. The clutch discs appear to be made of some organic material, and they certainly wear down with time and useage. The replacement is under $100, certainly worth it for the peace of mind of knowing you have a new winch with no corrosion, new clutch and springs, and not a ticking time bomb waiting to suddenly freewheel and probably smash something, your arm maybe, as the handle spins out of control with 800 pounds of cast iron pulling it.

Edited by - on

SeabirdSkipper
Deckhand

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12 Posts

Response Posted - 02/24/2004 : 20:22:07

Adam,

Any advice for changing out that winch with the boat in the water? I just (like 20 minutes ago) ordered a new winch from CD. Mine's corroded, most likely from a lifetime in saltwater. I had a new cable put on it when I bought the boat about 18 months ago, but was not savy enough at the time to check out the winch. The boat will be coming out of the water soon for a bottom job, but with the corrosion, I was't really inclined to wait even another month to replace. My thought was to just lower the keel, unwind the cable, unbolt, replace, re-wind the cable, but that's all just theory. Will it work that simply?

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 02/24/2004 : 20:44:32

Heh heh...just don't drop the cable through the hole. When I overhauled my winch, I took the stairs off and laid them down, the winch was a lot easier to work on in that position.

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 02/24/2004 : 22:21:56

Kelly,

Like ClamBeach said, keep ahold of the cable! Once disconnected from the winch, it's going to try to curl up like a phone cord, and may escape down the "radiator hose". I'd tie somthing to it and/or grip it gently with Vise-Grips.

Before swapping winches, check carefully for differences between them. Note which parts may need to be switched over to the new winch. Note in particular if there's a little wooden wedge between the winch and the step, and if so, which way it's positioned. Also note how the cable end is routed and attached on the winch drum. If you have slot head mounting screws in the top step, and would like to replace then with phillips head, I found them at West Marine. I suggest using self locking nuts, two large fender washers, and a split lock washer on each of the three mounting bolts. A stainless steel backing plate for the bolt directly above the winch drum wouldn't be a bad idea. I've seen winch frames bent at that bolt. I think these winches were originally intended to take a load at 90* to the way they're installed in our boats.

-- Leon Sisson

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.