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A question: towing the outboard?

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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/27/2003 : 14:42:40

When my boat is hauled this week, is it okay to tow it to my house with the outboard (Honda 9.9 on an OMC bracket) still attached? Or should I remove the outboard once the boat is on the hard, and put it in my wagon? I have worried visions of the transom falling off...

Dave on "Wood Duck" (#2616 - SR, FK)

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 10/27/2003 : 15:03:46

On my last boat, I always removed the outboard prior to transporting because I didn't want to take any chances. If the outboard was mounted on the transon like on a fishing boat, I would probably leave it on like everyone else. But having the outboard attached to a moveable mount is a different story.

It's one thing to risk one's own boat, motor, and mount by leaving the motor on the transom during transport, but it's quite another to put that risk on the car driving behind you if something were to happen.

I always removed the rudder also, to prevent any undue stress on the rudder, pintles, and gudgeons.

Edited by - dlucier on 10/27/2003 15:06:01

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/27/2003 : 22:07:42

On the one hand, that Honda's a load on that bracket... On the other, it's a load to remove and put somewhere else. If the trip is short and fairly smooth, and you decide to leave it on, I'd tie it to a stern rail base and a cleat to take some load off the bracket.

Edited by - on

MattL
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 10/28/2003 : 03:13:37

When we got our boat I tied it to the stern rail as suggested. I think I tided it as suggested that is. I had my wife follow me a short distance on a bumpy road to see how it held up. She pulled me over and said not to drive with it like that. I now remove it nad swing it into the cockpit, propeller to stern with a pad under the blades. I tie a rope on the nearest stern cleat, wrap it around the lower end of the shaft and with my version of a truckers knot cinch it up to the opposite stern cleat. I then tie another line to the jib cleat around the base of the motor and back up to the same side jib winch. Tighten up the winch, which also tightens up the rear and cleat it off. Oh, almost forgot remove the gas line the last time you run it to get the fuel out of the engine so it doesn't spill all over everything.
I have never had it bounce out of the back this way and onto the hood of an unsuspecting automobile.

Edited by - on

lcharlot
Master Marine Consultant

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Antigua and Barbuda
1301 Posts

Response Posted - 10/28/2003 : 08:35:53

I have towed my boat thousands of miles, all the way from Virginia to California in fact, with the engine mounted, but securely lashed to the stern pulpit and stern cleats. The secret is to pull the lashings upwards as tight as possible, so that the lashings, not the mount bracket, are taking almost all of the weight of the motor. I have also twice towed with the outboard mounted, 1900 miles round trip for cruises to the San Juans, and never had a problem. The lashings consist of 10 or 12 loops of 5/16" line, back and forth through the outboard's handle and around the back of the motor, and through the pulpit stanchions and cleat. That much 5/16" line. I guarantee the motor won't move, and it's a lot easier than trying to move that 110# hulk from the bracket to the back of the truck, and then re-mount it at the destination.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 10/28/2003 : 11:16:05

I have always pulled my motors off. I get under it on the trailer and lift it off. It is nice to have a second person. I currently have a 2-stroke 9.9. I do not mind them in the back of my vehicle; admittedly it is just for a 30-mile drive. I see a lot of trailers with dock/truck boxes on them, is there a way to store the motor on the trailer somewhere? All this talk about using pulpits as structural members surprises me, I certainly never thought of them as strong enough for that kind of usage. It also bothers me to use a mast-up on the road. I am reinforcing my gudgeons so I will feel better about that.

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Ray Seitz
Captain

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USA
416 Posts

Response Posted - 10/28/2003 : 12:19:44

Dave I think I recall this topic once before and at least one person lost their motor on the road. At a minimum the suggestions about lashing the motor down seem good for a short drive. I do not take my motor off for road travel but the 250 mounts the motor differently.

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DrDre
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts

Response Posted - 10/28/2003 : 22:59:58

Dave;
I recently had my 250 WK trucked all the way from Charleston, SC to New York with the OB (Honda 9.9) mounted and in the DOWN/RUN position. This is what I thought best and what was confirmed by the manual as being the best way to transport it on trailer. The amount of bounce in this postion is significantly less then in the tilted up position. For added security I would add several lashings to really get it snug. I think that you'd be taking a chance on doing some damage by removing the engine everytime you wanted to transport your boat.

all my best,
Andre'

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2003 : 09:35:45

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DrDre
 Dave;
I recently had my 250 WK trucked all the way from Charleston, SC to New York with the OB (Honda 9.9) mounted and in the DOWN/RUN position...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Doc: You have an advantage with the direct transom mount. Dave (and the rest of us C-25ers) are concerned with the movable bracket hanging off the transom, held by a few bolts and varying degrees of backing. With 108 lb.s or more on that lever,...

Edited by - on

deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 10/31/2003 : 11:02:06

Thanks for all your suggestions. This has been really helpful.

My C25 is a fin keel, so when it is hauled, the motor sits very high up on the transom (the engine itself is about ten feet off the ground), so removing it requires two people and a strong stepladder. Likewise putting it back. The good thing: the boat only gets hauled fall and spring.

I am inclined to remove it and bring it home myself, which is what I have done in the past, mostly so I can run it in a tub of fresh water and do the end-of-season maintenance on it.

Yesterday I sailed "Wood Duck" up from Cape Cod to Boston in 20 knot winds with long-duration gusts to 30. As I turned toward Boston the wind was on my nose, so on went the "iron genny". What a pounding! One of the worst I have ever had. Three to four foot chop. And the motor and its bracket stayed attached, and the transom remains on the boat. So I trust the C25 structure a bit more than I once did...

Sometimes the conditions one encounters close to shore are far worse than ten to fifteen rollers offshore...

Edited by - on

tmhansen
Captain

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USA
397 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2003 : 01:27:25

Dave, when I bought our boat I took a look at the flex in the transom/motor mount and decided that I did not want to risk losing transom and motor on a 200 mile trip home. Having lifted the motor off I resolved to make it safe to trailer for our use. ( I have remote start/throttle & alternator which makes removal even more of a pain)
First we replaced the original bracket with a new Garrelick one. When I took the old one off it was apparent that it was not helping to lift the motor much at all. The new mount will lift the motor, actually we have to shove it down. Second, I reinforced the transom with two stainless c channels I had fabricated from scrap I found in the scrap bin at the fabricators. Now the load of the motor is distributed over the entire height of the transom through eight bolts, not just four bolts with fender washers. When those were done the motor still had some bounce to it in the bracket itself. I could not see lashing it to the stern rail. I like what the bass boats do with their strut to the trailer but my trailer ends about 5 feet before the transom. I fabricated a simple strut from a piece of 2x4 laid flat with a slot on one end that rests against the hinge bolt of the motor bracket. The opposite end has a v shape cut into it to mate with the lower end of my motor. I have to lift the motor slightly to install the strut. Once in place the motor is rock solid. Webing and velcro will make sure it can't bounce out. I'll take some photos this weekend and post.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2003 : 13:45:37

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by tmhansen
 First we replaced the original bracket with a new Garrelick one. I like what the bass boats do with their strut to the trailer but my trailer ends about 5 feet before the transom. I fabricated a simple strut from a piece of 2x4 laid flat with a slot on one end that rests against the hinge bolt of the motor bracket. Once in place the motor is rock solid.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Did you get the 70190 or the 71091? I had gotten the 90 and was looking forward to installing it. I read about the 91 on this forum and returned the 90. I got the 91 yesterday. Holy Crap! I thought the 90 was hell built for stout! This 91 is ridiculous! I think we could use it for an engine hoist and I don't mean an outboard! It weighs a ton, two massive, (one upper and one lower), channels on the 91, replace the 4 aluminum channels of the 90. I am replacing the gaerlick SS which was too light duty for my Johnson 9.9 Yachttwin. The new one has a wider mounting bracket so I will only be able to reuse two of my existing holes. In fact I am concerned about which two to use. I need to make sure the rudder is not affected if I use the two outside holes. Any advise?

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At Ease
Admiral

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672 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2003 : 14:36:15

When I trailered, always took the motor off. Obviously, lots of folks leave their motors on and have done okay, but the bottom line is that the motor mount on a sailboat is not designed for the stresses incurred on the highway...especially the highways where I live!!

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tmhansen
Captain

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USA
397 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2003 : 15:37:16

Frank, I think we have the 91 but to be honest I am not positive. It is certainly stout. Since the travel distance was not the same as my old bracket I needed to move downward and inward so none of my holes aligned. I also had to install a spacer. I used stacks of starboard.

I took the photos of the bracket with the strut and put them on the wifes laptop. Now I just have to post on the website and add a link here tonight. Catching a cold so turned in early last night

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2003 : 22:05:00

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com
 ...The new one has a wider mounting bracket so I will only be able to reuse two of my existing holes. In fact I am concerned about which two to use. I need to make sure the rudder is not affected if I use the two outside holes. Any advise?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Frank: I don't have experience with that Garelick, but I will suggest adding a Starboard "fronting" plate on the transom under the bracket. It could easily cover your existing holes, so you have the option of placing the bracket anywhere you want--vertically as well as horizontally. You can measure its position, up and down, and the position of the prop relative to the inside of the clamps--down and tilted--to decide your optimal location for having the prop at a good depth but able to tilt clear of the water with the bracket up, even with some heel. Some Marine Tex in the unsused holes, under the Starboard plate, should take care of things.

Similarly, take some measurements on the position of the powerhead and handle, to make sure you'll have clearance at the transom and the sternrail. If you need a little more, you can add layers of Starboard (which, incidentally, can be bought in thicknesses greater than 1/2").

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 11/03/2003 22:07:21

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2003 : 22:19:47

Thanks Dave, I filled all four holes with epoxy yesterday and will play with the location before I mount it. I had not thought about the effect of healing, good tip.

Edited by - on

tmhansen
Captain

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USA
397 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2003 : 00:56:05

Ok, I have the use of the laptop tonight. (My P166 does not have a USB port to downlod from the camera, wife's laptop does). I have down sized the files, posted to the web and here we go...

The first is an overall shot of the new motor mount showing how the strut works in context. (This is before I installed a retaining strap at each end)

Here is a shot from the other side with the strap installed and closer.

And finally, here is a shot from the inside showing the new transom reinforcement. I am in the middle of converting my wheel steering to Arlyn's open cable system. The arm in the background is not attached to the rudder in the photo.

P.S. I have a Laguna 26 not a Catalina 25 so things may look unusual to you.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2003 : 10:41:00

The excellent care you take of your boat is obvious. It shows a lot of pride. Yes that is the 70191. It is a monster! How much do you guess it wieghs? Nice job on the strut. I will use starboard both inside and outside to reinforce my transom. Someone mentioned the "oilcanning" of their transom, to me that implies it pops back out when the pressure is removed, mine is simply deformed. It isn't bad but it should not be deformed at all. That mount is really low on your boat. Does it articulate below horizontal? You will not need it to but I might. I assumed they did. Can you post a picture of the mount in the full down position? That would help me a lot.
Thanks

Edited by - on

tmhansen
Captain

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USA
397 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2003 : 15:26:50

Frank, yes it does drop below horizontal. I think it will even drag in the water at the full down position because the bracket is so tall. I have not had it in the water yet (much to our dismay). I'll take a photo for you but it may take me a bit.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2003 : 15:49:58

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by tmhansen
 Frank, yes it does drop below horizontal. I think it will even drag in the water at the full down position because the bracket is so tall. I have not had it in the water yet (much to our dismay). I'll take a photo for you but it may take me a bit.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Thanks
Isn't KPIG out of San Luis O? I do miss Highway 1. I went back to Solvang after 30 years, wow. What's her name was right they did tear down Paradise and put up a parking lot!

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Earl Landers
Navigator

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USA
157 Posts

Response Posted - 11/05/2003 : 16:55:02

Frank,
The mighty KPIG is in Freedom, CA which is adjacent to Santa Cruz. Their tiny transmitter doesn't make it to San Luis. For those who have never heard KPIG

, imagine a radio station programed by actual DJ's that like music, kinda like an ANTI-CLEAR CHANNEL radio.

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tmhansen
Captain

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USA
397 Posts

Response Posted - 11/06/2003 : 01:16:50

Yes we are out of KPIG range ( but you can stream it on the web) We have KOTR, K-otter which I think is very similar. No real format. The DJ's play what they want and they are our co-workers and neighbors. But we digress.

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