Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Want to order some clamp-on guides to lead a line forward for a jib downhaul. About time I put one on.
West Marine has some nice looking ones by spinlock that are for 1" tubing.. so... what diameter is the safety rail stanchion tubing on a C-25? Is it 7/8" or 1"?
Other recommendations on fairleads for the dousing line are welcome.
For my jib dowsing line I just used about 1/8" single braid threaded through the port side stanchion base braces back to the cockpit. I think I tied it off to the last stanchion to keep it from getting away. After pulling the sail down, I belay that line to the port jib sheet cleat.
I tied a tiny Harken block to the stem fitting. The upper end of the line has a bowline knot slipped over the top hank just as it's being clipped onto the headstay. As I clip on the rest of the hanks, I weave the line from side to side between the headstay and sail luff, switching sides every two hanks.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Leon Sisson</i> <br />ClamBeach,
For my jib dowsing line I just used about 1/8" single braid threaded through the port side stanchion base braces back to the cockpit. -- Leon Sisson
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Me too; I do have a tiny clam cleat next to my headsail cleat for the douser.
Thanks for the info gents... and for the suggestions on using the stanchion bases as line guides. I'll give that a go, possibly tomorrow and see how well it works out for me. Supposed to be nice sailing weather, 10-15kt winds... but cool (low 50's).
Our stanchion base supports would probably bind the line--they angle down from the base, forming a corner that I suspect would grab the line under tension. We have a couple of tiny swivel blocks attached to the stanchion base supports for our furler line. The blocks Earl has are pretty cool, but you can also get simple fairleads that clamp to the stanchions--they should suffice since the line isn't really turning at those points.
I found that Sailnet has "Spinlok" brand bullet blocks that clamp on the stanchions for less than $10 so I "bit the bullet" (pun) and ordered a couple. In addition I purchased one of their stanchion-mounted roller blocks too (like the bullets but with a sheave).
I have roller furling in mind for sometime next year and I know I'd want a good low-friction setup for that anyway... so the extra $$ for the 'bristol' setup will return it's value then.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.