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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hi all, do we have a rule about posting non sailing questions? With all the knowledgeable people here, I'm sure someone here can help me with what is probably an easy wood working question, but I don't want to overstep the bounds of this board.
Historically, the board has been on topic but flexible. Defining flexible means that its been greatly and generally appreciated that there is no politics or religion in any degree or form.
The Trailer Sailor BBS suffers because of off topic material... but I think that is because anything goes there and because their format allows for renaming a thread... thus their forum is often used like a chat board making it very difficult and frustrating at times to sort out sailing related stuff which more often than not is in the minority.
Personally, I appreciate hearing other things happening with forum participants... as long as they are within the definition above.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Ben</i> <br />Hi all, do we have a rule about posting non sailing questions? With all the knowledgeable people here, I'm sure someone here can help me with what is probably an easy wood working question, but I don't want to overstep the bounds of this board.
Thanks,
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> If it is about tools and how to use them then we all need to learn it.
Okay, well it's reaching a bit, I suppose, but tools are involved so here goes...
Sometime in the 1950's my dearly departed grampa (died last Feb) and my great uncle built a small pool table, with a surface of maybe 4 x 6, or there abouts. The table top itself is not slate, but rather wood. So, decades later my pool table has peaks and valleys. Anyone who has played pool knows this is not good and only favors the host (me). In an attemp to level the playing field (pun intended), I want to replace the board. I went to Lowe's today and found a 4x8 sheet of hardwood birch, and hardwood something else, for about $40.00. It says on the card with the price that it is used for furniture. I'm wondering if anyone knows if this will work and be level for years to come.
Thanks for indulging me. Sorry if I offend anyone by asking this, but I know of no other board with such knowledgeable people about so many different things.
Ben, You are talking about some great material in the birch plywood. The price comes from the construction of the material. Cheap plywood is full of voids caused by knots that fall out, etc. As you go up in price these holes are filled in. Surface is also concidered in final price. Generally speaking I find the plywood with the most plys is the best quality and should work well for your project. The problem you have seen with the top is that it was made form regular boards that will cup, twist, shrink and expand as the seasons change. Because of the nature of the material the plywood will not do this. The only trouble I see is that a wooden surface for a pool table might see dents along the way if you are too rough with the balls hitting the top. Thats why the slate is used in pool tables, no dents-just cracks. By the way, from what I understand Marine Plywood is not much different than regular plywood. It is supose to have all the voids filled and some use a water proof glue. I dont think water proof glue is mandated in marine plywood, but I could be wrong about that. Hope this helps, and post a photo of the finished product if you can.
Thanks Matt, I certainly can and will post a picture of the pool table put back together. It's a nice pool table, though very homemade. One of those pieces of your childhood that comes back to you years, or decades, later.
Incidentally I just took the table top off, and it is actual particle board, or press board. Can't remember what it's called exactly. It's made of small pieces of wood all pressed together.
You should consider looking at MDF (medium density fiberboard). It is very hard and much more resistant to twisting and moving about than the particle board you are taking off the table now. I am not sure on the price but I am sure it is less than the birch plywood you are looking at. If you do decide on plywood, check the price of Oak as well, I just priced some today for a job and the oak was only $6 more than the birch ($39.50). Look under Hardwood in the yellow pages and give one of the dealers a call, they usually sell sheet goods as well since they supply cabinet shops with materials. Quiz them on the specific characteristics (sp?) of each material.
Rather than traditional plywood, take a look at the 3/4" MDO (Medium Density Overlay). MDO is made with a high-quality paper saturated with phenolic resin solids and overlaid on our exterior-grade plywood panels. The selected hardwood veneer beneath the overlay is free of patches, providing a smooth surface with minimal grain show through. MDO plywood is manufactured with waterproof resins. It has a smooth finish side and is very heavy. 2 sheets glued to the frame would be very similar to slate in stability and weight. It will last as long as anything else you would find in a professionally built table.
I recommend MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) which cuts nicely, can be molded in a shaper (I used it for the raised door panels in my kitchen cabinets). It is available in 4x8 sheets in either 3/4"or 5/8" ticknesses. MDO is also a good option, though its weight and density make it a bit harder to work with. For your uses it would be fine. Any plywood is, of course, a veneer (of birch or oak or maple, usually), and the interior plys are fir or spruce. If you choose Plywood, then I would go with 3/4" Baltic Fir plyscore. It comes with at least 8 plys (layers) and is thus very dense (and heavy). Since I would assume the table will be covered with green felt, finished hardwood plywood does not really make sense, however, because you are paying for something (the hardness of the finished layer) which you are not really getting. The finished layer is 1/32"or even 1/64" thick, and is there for appearance, not hardness. It is used for bulding cabinets cases and bookshelves, etc. For hardness, MDO or MDF would be my option. You might also look into cementitious board--it comes in 3/4" thicknesses, but I am not aware of it being available in 4/8 sheets. You can cut it with a saw just like wood, and it can even be shaped to some extent. Good Luck!
Hey Ben, guess us Northern sailers have nothing to do so we can consider your question. I can't help you, but to me, it is just as interesting as snow which has something to do with sailing as it will become the water sail in next year1
You might also consider using what flooring installers use to level wood underlayment before installing vinyl. It is a self leveling filler that you can use a squeegy on and then sand smooth. You simply mix with water to the consistancy you need. It should be available at the big box hardware stores or if you can find a floor supply distributor. You will get an extremely smooth surface.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.