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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Running halyards to the cockpit.

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pwhallon
Admiral

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USA
694 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/08/2004 : 12:03:02

Hi again,

Is it a difficult job to run the main and spinaker halyard to the cockpit? My 89 had this feature and I can't remember how it was rigged.

On the boats without this feature, are the halyards outside of the mast? If so, how do you get the halyard down to the deck and then "turned" so as to create a fairlead to the cabintop winch?

Is this a difficult job?

Thanks again,

PW

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 02/08/2004 : 12:30:57

Hi Paul... With external halyards, the first requirement is a mast base plate, available from Catalina Direct, that mounts under the tabernacle (mast step). To that, you attach swivel blocks that turn the lines out to a "deck oranizer" (like 2-3 cheek blocks in a single housing), which turns the lines back between the poptop (for those of us who have one) and the hand rail. Rope clutches can then go forward of the winch. If you search for "halyards", I'm sure you'll find a thread with pictures.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 02/08/2004 12:32:04

John G-
Admiral

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793 Posts

Response Posted - 02/08/2004 : 12:38:49

Paul,
I did not do this job myself.
I have tree clutches on each side with a cabintop winch on the port side. I highly recommend spending the boat units and going whole hog.
In this view of the [url="http://www.catalina25-250.org/tech/tech25/tt008.htm"] triple rope clutches [/url] on the starboard side you can see that the plate on the bottom of the mast is something that is just held in place by the weight of the mast, I use 3/8” swivel blocks for the halyards to a deck organizer then back to the clutches. The deck organizer and the clutches are bolted through the deck with large washers for each bolt acting as backing plates. Some here will recommend a full backing plate I have not had any problems with the washers. All my halyards are external but it shouldn’t matter as internals can be routed out of the mast about 18” off the deck.
The main work is lining up the hardware and drilling and sealing holes. “Measure twice drill once.”

Underlined words are a HOT link.

Edited by - on

Captain B
1st Mate

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USA
88 Posts

Response Posted - 02/08/2004 : 13:09:02

Paul, The CD mast step halyard plate is great. Although you'll have to drill holes in it to match your existing mast step, the process is simple. I'm still debating using cam cleats vice clutches and I don't have a cabin top winch. Good luck with your project

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 02/08/2004 : 13:27:24

Funny... I just found John's tech tip and was about to post the link to that picture.

The base plate, which provides holes for mounting the swivel blocks, is positioned with the bolts that mount the step to the deck. I found that I had to have new holes drilled in the plate to match the step. (I let a rigger do it--I don't have the equipment to drill stainless that heavy.)

I agree that backing plates aren't necessary for the organizers and clutches--the forces against them are sideways, not upward. However, I wouldn't try mounting the inner blocks to the deck, even with backers. The upward forces are apt to break the bedding seal. The mast base plate is the solution. As John says, the mast and rigging hold it down quite adequately!

For placing the hardware, particularly the deck organizers, I layed everything out with the lines running through the organizers and clutches, and then marked the positions. It's not a bad idea to move the organizers aft of the mast somewhat--the shallower the angle, the less stress on them, and the more efficient they'll be.

CD sells as many of the components as you want, including new low stretch all-rope halyards, although you can probably beat their prices by shopping the net for the individual components.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 02/08/2004 : 13:33:23

Paul,

I converted my 1979 C-25 pop-top from wire&rope external halyards cleated on the mast to all rope internal halyards lead to the cockpit. Controls lead aft has been a popular topic on these forums lately, so you might want to look around for recent threads. As Dave and John have already said, it's not hard to do. It's my understanding that traditionally, headsail controls are located to port, and mainsail controls to stbd.

The key points are to: plan way ahead, get the right parts, determine the deck hardware locations carefully before drilling holes, and to seal the deck core well. Note that the cost of "the right parts" can add up fast.

Since halyards are heavily loaded lines, and there's likely to be an air gap between the headliner and deck as well as plywood core, this is an ideal application of the drill oversize and pour in place epoxy compression bushing technique that's been described here several times. If you want to get really fancy, and test your epoxy fabrication skills, it's possible to cast in place threaded bushings so that the bolts don't extend through the leadliner. The WEST book on boat building describes the technique in detail.

To position the parts on each side, I started from the mast base and winch, and worked towards the deck organizer. The mast base plate location is pretty much fixed. I located the winch (or space reserved for one) as far aft on the cabin top as practical.

When installing the port winch, I discovered where the wiring for the cabin lights is routed in the headliner. Twice.

Watch the dust and chips pulled up by the drill bit. If you see wiring insulation or shiny copper flakes, you'll know the job just got longer and more complicated.

Next, I added the swivel bullet blocks to the mast base plate, and positioned the clutches ahead of the winch locations. Clutch location needs to be a compromise between fairest lead to winch and still within reach while seated in cockpit.

Finally, I routed lines (these can be short scraps the correct diameter if the real ones aren't handy) through everything including the unattached organizers. Then I slid the organizers around on deck to get the fairest leads. An assistant comes in handy to hold tension on the lines. Finally, I marked and drilled the organizer mounting holes, after carefully checking below deck to make sure I wasn't trying to install a bolt in the middle of a bulkhead, or some such "Duh!" forehead slapper.

I used 6-sheeve organizers, so I would have plenty of room to add additional control lines in the future. (The stbd. side is already full!)

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

John G-
Admiral

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793 Posts

Response Posted - 02/08/2004 : 15:40:34

Just a couple of words about the value of going “whole hog” and installing [url="http://www.catalina25-250.org/tech/tech25/tt008.htm"] triple rope clutches [/url]. I bought [url="http://www.catalina25-250.org/photo/peregrine2.jpg"]"Peregrine"[/url] over two other boats because of the clutches. I knew having all, in my case six, lines led aft would make the boat easier and safer to sail alone.
IMO it is money well spent. And those of you considering using just cam cleats, I have no doubt the cam cleats will work but not as well and you have to drill just about as many holes as installing clutches. All you are saving is cost of the clutches as you need the deck organizers and mast plate and blocks. It’s like redoing the bathroom in your house, its money you will get back.

Underlined words are a HOT link.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/08/2004 : 20:02:47

These are Garhauer 25 series blocks.

Edited by - on

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