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DrDre
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/28/2004 : 02:07:54

Spring is getting closer and the list of things to do is getting longer. Most importantly getting back on the water.

Click to go to webpage and view several pictures that I took last month of projects that need to be completed before I get her back in the water.

http://homepage.mac.com/andrerica/PhotoAlbum5.html

Any advice on fixing these things would be appreciated.

Think warm weather!

Andre'

1998 250 WK "Ananda" #373 City Island, New York

Edited by - on

Doug
Captain

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USA
457 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2004 : 03:06:14

Edited by - Doug on 02/28/2004 03:07:55

Doug
Captain

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USA
457 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2004 : 03:06:33

What's the deal with the motor mount damage? Is the motor mounted right on to the transom?
Looks like you need to learn how to use MarineTex

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2004 : 09:14:07

Original reply deleted in deference to more helpful, less reactionary responses below.

I hadn't had my coffee, yet.

Best of luck and let us know what you discover and how things turn out.

Regards,

Edited by - Sea Trac on 02/28/2004 12:50:29

svmoxie
Past Commodore

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USA
331 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2004 : 10:29:15

Andre'

For the coaming trim, like JB said, any polysulfide sealant will work, 4200, life seal, 101. Several choices available from West Marine / BoatUS / Defender etc. Just tape them in place and let the sealant cure.

The thru hull transducers look like they have had the edges sealed from the outside before... I would want to remove them from the hull to clean them and the fiberglass around the opening and reset them, again use a polysulfide sealant, not a polyurethane like 5200 or a silicone sealant.

The hull needs at a minimum a few coats of bottom paint. If there are no blisters visible now, and weren't when you hauled out, I would be tempted to just paint over it as it is, after a scrub / sanding, with a decent ablative bottom paint. When you decide to do a complete bottom job, strip, seal, paint, you should start as soon as you haul out so the bottom can be air dried over winter before you seal it. Doing that now will not give you the maximum time to dry out and will certainly run into your early season sailing time.

The transom looks rough, was the engine mounted directly to it?

The rudder gudgeons can be removed and resealed like the tranducers. Both jobs will be easier with an extra helper. You may have to cut an access hole in the rear of the cockpit to get to the upper gudgeon.

The rudder and the larger dings will require some fiberglass work, at a minimum, to repair. The smaller ones can be filled with Gelcoat. West Marine and others have the Catalina white tint available from Spectrum. Depending on your skill level and spirit of adventure these are all repairable by you but you might want to obtain at least a opinion from your yard on the keel repair.

If you don't have them already, get a copy of these two books:

Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair by Don Casey

and This Old Boat by Don Casey

Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair is like the Readers Digest condensed version of This Old Boat and will give you a quick overview of what is needed. This Old Boat is a reading intensive manual of boat repair.

In order of priority, I would:

<ul>
<li>Pull and reinstall the transducers </li>
<li>Repair or have the keel repaired </li>
<li>Paint the bottom </li>
<li>Repair the transom </li>
<li>Remount the gudgeons </li>
<li>Remount the coaming trim </li>
</ul>

I hope this helps and let us know if you need more information.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2004 : 11:15:49

Andre’

Cockpit pocket trim – I can see that someone has sealed it, but I don’t understand why it needs to be sealed. The teak trim on my C-25 cockpit pockets has never been sealed. The pockets are open to the weather, and rain can blow inside them. They have weepholes that allows any water that gets inside to drain into the cockpit. Why seal them to prevent water from getting inside, when rain is going to blow in through the opening anyway, and when it will drain out? Maybe a C250 owner will have an explanation.

Bottom Paint - The bottom looks like it has peeled, and needs a new bottom job. It’s hard to tell from the photo, but, if you aren’t interested in racing, you might get away with carefully sanding and smoothing it, and then repainting it. If you go that route, be careful that you don’t sand through to the bare fiberglass. (See the C250 manual about preparation for bottom paint.)

If you do this job yourself, you need a good respirator (not just a paper dust filter), and goggles to protect your eyes. Bottom paint dust irritates your eyes and nasal passages and is, I’m sure, bad for your lungs. I use synthetic latex (not real latex) surgical gloves to protect my hands when I do this work. You can get a box of 100 at a medical supply house for about $10, and they are impervious to the harsh chemicals. Because they are very thin, you can still feel any roughness in the repaired surfaces. After you use them once, throw them away, and your hands will be clean. A pair only cost about 20 cents.

To mask the waterline, I do not use ordinary paper masking tape. I have not found that it produces a sharp, clean line. I get mylar masking tape from an auto paint supply house. It produces a clean edge, and it can stretch a little, so that it follows a curved line a little better than paper masking tape. It's a little more expensive than paper masking tape, but is well worth it.

Motor mount and transom dings – White Marine Tex is easy to use and works well, but it might not perfectly match the white gel coat. Follow the instructions on the can. For a perfect gel coat match, you can fill the dings with Marine Tex and then get a little gel coat touch up that is specifically matched to a C-250. Because the dings are mostly in the area around the motor mount, I suspect the dings are being caused by careless installation of the motor. A sharp metal edge doesn’t have to hit gel coat very hard to gouge out a chunk. I also use surgical gloves to do this work. If you get Marine Tex on your skin, it isn’t easy to get it all off. The gloves will keep your hands clean.

Keel Repair – Interlux makes a product that is called Watertite Epoxy Filler. It is specifically designed for making fiberglass repairs that will be submerged in water. Mix and apply it according to the instructions on the can, and it should make a long lasting repair to your keel.

These two-part epoxy fillers, such as Marine Tex and Watertite Epoxy Filler, are easy to use. If you have never used them before, ask a sailing friend with experience to help you get started the first time, or ask the sales clerk for advice. Once you know how to use those materials, those jobs will not take a lot of time. Basically, you just fill the damaged areas, sand them smooth, and then paint over them.

Reseal gudgeon - Why do you want to reseal it? Is it leaking? If not, it’s better to leave it along. I follow the ungrammatical, but wise, advice, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Edited by - Steve Milby on 02/28/2004 11:24:00

Sid
Navigator

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129 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 14:28:16

On the C25, the coaming pocket needs to be sealed on the inside. If not, it is possible for water to leak into the sail locker and quarterberth before it reaches a high enough level to drain out of the weepholes. From the pic, it looks like you just want to reattach the trim ring. As recommended above, I'd use a polysulfide.
When we redid the bottom on our C25, a good sanding and two coats of albalative paint from West Marine produced a nice finish. The respirator and goggles are a must.
Good luck,
Sid

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