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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 refinishing tiller
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1grndslr
1st Mate

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34 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/12/2004 :  10:48:43  Show Profile
I am refinishing the tiller and it has dark spots that seem to be stains from mildew. Any suggestions on how to remove the dark stains?

Thanks,

T. Childs "Childs Play" "86 TR/FK

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jwilliams
Captain

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USA
357 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2004 :  11:29:29  Show Profile
There are two products I have used.

One is a Teak Brightener. It is a two-part application.

The other is Oxalic Acid. It is available as a component in several fiberglass stain-remover compounds.

Lastly, sanding.

Jim
Hey Jude C25fk 2954
SF Bay

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2004 :  14:40:08  Show Profile
For what it's worth - I have a tiller cover (Sunbrella) which does an excellent job of protecting the finish . . .

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rford
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2004 :  00:59:54  Show Profile
I also refinishing my tiller. No mildew spots but the finish is gone. What should I use on it to bring it back to the wonderful two tone I've seen on other C25's? Also, with the little bit of finish that remains, should I remove that before putting the new finish on?

Thanks

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John J.
Navigator

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USA
157 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2004 :  07:08:30  Show Profile
Use a stripper from any hdwre. store to remove what finish you have left. A new finish might not be compatible with the old one.
It should only take a small amt. of sanding to smooth the bare wood after that. Then apply several cts. marine varnish,lightly sanding with 220 grit between coats.

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2004 :  09:22:37  Show Profile  Visit John V.'s Homepage
once you have the stains taken care of you will have some re-finishing
options. There have been conversations on some other threads re. Varnish, and several of us have been experimenting with a 50/50 epoxy-xylene mixture as a base coat. Being so thin the EX tends to soak in deep to bare wood and prevents moisture from entering the wood aver again making it easier to maintain the outer varnish coats without checking or cracking. It might be worth considering for the tiller as it gets banged about some and is exposed to the weather.


Edited by - John V. on 03/14/2004 09:24:51
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oldsalt
Admiral

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USA
578 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2004 :  09:55:00  Show Profile
Xylene is extremely volatile and toxic. It will knock you unconcious if you use it in a confined area. I've seen two people carted away by ambulance after using xylene based paint indoors. One guy was a blue green color and was trembling like someone who was exposed to nerve gas.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2004 :  11:32:04  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
I used a belt sander, an orbital sander and urethane.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2004 :  12:08:34  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by rford</i>
<br />What should I use on it to bring it back to the wonderful two tone I've seen on other C25's? Also, with the little bit of finish that remains, should I remove that before putting the new finish on?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I use an oscillating finish sander (1/4 sheet) to remove old finishes - starting with 100 grit and ending with 220.

I apply a polyurethane with a UV inhibitor, using fine steel wool between each coat until the grain is completely filled - usually between 9 and 12 coats. I did this about 5 years ago and have only applied one coat since - still looks great (again, with a tiller cover.)

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2004 :  14:14:09  Show Profile
I used Sikkens on mine... a 10 minute rub-down yearly with a piece of "synthetic steel wool" dipped in Sikkens keeps it looking "bristol".

If I wasn't going to use that, I'd go with the UV-inhibited Polyurethane.

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3323 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2004 :  14:42:19  Show Profile
I sanded mine down to bare wood and applied 4 coats of gloss polyurethane 5 years ago. Haven't had to do any touch-ups since. (I do have a sunbrella cover).
Derek

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2004 :  23:18:36  Show Profile  Visit John V.'s Homepage
Mark,
I neglected to note that when using materials like xylene as an epoxy thinner, you must use a good respirator (not the paper dust filters from wal-mart but one with activated charcoal) and provide plenty of ventilation. Xylene is one of several solvents that will cut epoxy. It works well because it is less volitile than acetone and will not evaporate as quickly. sorry I omited the cautionary note.

Edited by - John V. on 03/14/2004 23:28:55
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1grndslr
1st Mate

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34 Posts

Response Posted - 03/15/2004 :  12:22:02  Show Profile
Thanks to all who responded to my tiller dilemma. As usual this group of sailors is the best.


Ted Childs

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