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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I also refinishing my tiller. No mildew spots but the finish is gone. What should I use on it to bring it back to the wonderful two tone I've seen on other C25's? Also, with the little bit of finish that remains, should I remove that before putting the new finish on?
Use a stripper from any hdwre. store to remove what finish you have left. A new finish might not be compatible with the old one. It should only take a small amt. of sanding to smooth the bare wood after that. Then apply several cts. marine varnish,lightly sanding with 220 grit between coats.
once you have the stains taken care of you will have some re-finishing options. There have been conversations on some other threads re. Varnish, and several of us have been experimenting with a 50/50 epoxy-xylene mixture as a base coat. Being so thin the EX tends to soak in deep to bare wood and prevents moisture from entering the wood aver again making it easier to maintain the outer varnish coats without checking or cracking. It might be worth considering for the tiller as it gets banged about some and is exposed to the weather.
Xylene is extremely volatile and toxic. It will knock you unconcious if you use it in a confined area. I've seen two people carted away by ambulance after using xylene based paint indoors. One guy was a blue green color and was trembling like someone who was exposed to nerve gas.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by rford</i> <br />What should I use on it to bring it back to the wonderful two tone I've seen on other C25's? Also, with the little bit of finish that remains, should I remove that before putting the new finish on? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I use an oscillating finish sander (1/4 sheet) to remove old finishes - starting with 100 grit and ending with 220.
I apply a polyurethane with a UV inhibitor, using fine steel wool between each coat until the grain is completely filled - usually between 9 and 12 coats. I did this about 5 years ago and have only applied one coat since - still looks great (again, with a tiller cover.)
I sanded mine down to bare wood and applied 4 coats of gloss polyurethane 5 years ago. Haven't had to do any touch-ups since. (I do have a sunbrella cover). Derek
Mark, I neglected to note that when using materials like xylene as an epoxy thinner, you must use a good respirator (not the paper dust filters from wal-mart but one with activated charcoal) and provide plenty of ventilation. Xylene is one of several solvents that will cut epoxy. It works well because it is less volitile than acetone and will not evaporate as quickly. sorry I omited the cautionary note.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.