Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Getting my trailer ready for the long haul to Maryland next month. Yesterday I tore the brakes apart to find an ugly/empty/rusty master cylinder. I was able to find a replacement master cylinder online but I'm not sure which slave cylinders to use at the wheels. I have a 1987 Trail-Rite trailer with a DICO Model 10 surge brake actuator at the tongue. Anyone have an idea which slave cylinders to use?
I think backing plates, brakes, and slaves were pretty standard stuff on most trailer manufacturers. I'd call the folks at Champion Trailers (www.championtrailers.com.) and ask them about slaves for your trail rite.
I know this won't help you for today, but I converted my trailer to electric brakes (last Summer). They are so much more effective and reliable ... no problems backing up, either.
Forgot to mention... if your axles have standard flanges, you can get entire galvanized brake assemblies (backing plates, shoes, cylinders, springs etc.) for a pretty reasonable price.
In retrospect, I wish I'd gone that route rather than just replacing my wheel cylinders (slaves) and doing a general clean/paint routine.
DHM Trailers in Sacramento (www.dhmenterprises.com/) has a new type wheel cylinder that does not use the old rubber boot. The rubber boot used to leak and hold water inside and rust would destroy the cylinder. The new type has an "O" ring inside and no boot and looks to be a better design.
I just replaced both of mine and will see how much better they hold up.
Thanks guys....ordered up everything from Champion Trailers this morning. Dropping the trailer off for a sandblasting/paintjob later today. Going to look like a new trailer!! John at Trail-Rite even sent me new decals!!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Mark Loyacano</i> <br />I know this won't help you for today, but I converted my trailer to electric brakes (last Summer). They are so much more effective and reliable ... no problems backing up, either. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Mark, I just ordered electric brake set from Champion yesterday. I was told I got their last set of galv. electric brakes in 10". Do you launch in fresh or salt water and how have they held up? Do you flush them each time? She really tried to sell me hydralic brakes but I would have to go electric/hydralic because I want to make sure the brakes only come on when I want them to coming down long grades.
We have a crane where we sail. The brakes have never been "dunked". I have heard bad things about trailor brakes and saltwater (electric or hydraulic). Wish I could be more help. As for control... I like the ability to adjust braking action from the cab of my truck. I would recommend checking your brakes frequently when under tow. Make certain they are not overheating, dragging or anything like that. Good luck.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.