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 Standard stove in 1995 250wb won't light		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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John Hutto
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts
Initially Posted - 04/27/2004 :  21:27:23  Show Profile
I accidentaly posted this on the swap side. Whoops. I bought new cans of fuel to put in my standard stove and installed one. I moved the lever and could here the fuel escaping but the stove would not light after a couple of tries. The igniter is sparking. Suggestions?
John Hutto
John
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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts
Response Posted - 04/27/2004 :  23:54:00  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
It may be the air in the line isn't purged enough.

There is both a locking lever for the can as well as a turn dial to turn on the flow... both have to be engaged.

That original unit is pretty rinky dink. Consider swapping to Coleman canisters. To do so, go to a sporting goods and look for a Coleman replacement valve assembly for a Coleman stove. Remove the long stem and replace it with the quick fitting salvaged from the rinky dink (same threads). Your in business. Turn it on to the first position only or you may singe your brows :)

Store the cannister in the fuel locker when not in use.
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bear
Admiral

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USA
909 Posts
Response Posted - 04/28/2004 :  10:52:39  Show Profile
John, I removed the whole ill trusted stove from my 1995 C250 and covered the opening over with a nice breadboard. Cooking on-board is
not one of our needs We do have a single burner stove that hooks up to a single Coleman cannister and sets very nicely on the cabin floor when needed. When not in use it sets in its box under the sink. I never trusted that princess stove setup and really never got it to work properly. "Bear" on Brandy C250 WB. "Splash" Sunday
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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts
Response Posted - 04/28/2004 :  11:15:17  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
Bear is right, the stove is not much to brag about but it does work pretty well. My reference above was to the cannister cartridge unit that was mounted below in the cabinet.


My stove has seen a great deal of use and continues to work fine. The plastic knobs on the fiddle melted down... and some of the porcelon on the grill bars is flaking off... but again, its seen a lot of use, only once however with the rinky dink cannister settup.
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Tony Partain
1st Mate

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USA
93 Posts
Response Posted - 05/02/2004 :  16:50:10  Show Profile
Arlyn when you converted your stove from butane to propane did you have to remove the original regulator?
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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts
Response Posted - 05/03/2004 :  00:01:46  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
I made no changes to the stove. The coleman cylinder valve has a very small hole in the end of the shaft the opens the valve on the cylinder. I think it is this very small oriface that serves as a regulator.

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Tony Partain
1st Mate

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USA
93 Posts
Response Posted - 05/03/2004 :  10:23:29  Show Profile
I will take the factory regulator off and try it that way. The shut off valve that you show in your picture seems to be that same unit that I purchased. Even when opening the shut off valve fully it will not light with the factory regulator in place.
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.