Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I decided to replace the existing winch on the trailer before it broke my hand. The new Fulton #3200 I got from Champion is pretty neat, not only does the ratchet stay locked until I release it, it has a transmission with two speeds and neutral. In neutral you can pull the strap out without the handle flying around.
I bought a 3" wide strap that fits the width of the drum. The strap has a flat loop at the end. The winch drum has four 3/8" holes on one side and only a single little 1/8" hole on the other. I tried to secure it with 1/8" line but it snaped at home in the driveway before I even loaded it up that much. How do you secure the winch strap to the drum?
My winch has a 1/4" bolt. I also need to change out my strap. The old one broke and I replaced it with a ten footer. But I need the longest one they have for the mast raising system. Last time I did it I had to make an extension. That cost me about another hour of time trying to rig it. Any ideas about how I can fix the cabin wench?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Ben - FL</i> <br />...Any ideas about how I can fix the cabin wench? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Ben,...without a prenup, replacing a cabin wench can be quite expensive!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tmhansen</i> <br /> How do you secure the winch strap to the drum? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Does it really need to be secured? Doesn't it wrap over its self enough to hold? How about a small sheet of metal the width of the drum and an inch or so long, drill several holes through it and the drum that would hold several SS pop rivets, rivet the strap between the drum and the piece of metal you just manufactured.
I have thought of adding a piece of metal strap across the face of the drum. Can't drill into the hub though since the axle bolt and bearing sleeve is inside. I am thinking of drilling a small slot on each side of the drum next to the hub. A piece of metal through this and the loop in the strap. Seems like a lot of work. I can't image that someone has not faced this problem and solved it before or that the manufacturer does not have a way to do it. I'll have to make some calls Monday.
Strap won't grip on itself, it just turns under load. That would be bad when coming up the ramp
If memory serves me correctly, the winch and strap I installed on my old trailer was attached as Ben said, with a small bolt that went through both side plates of the winch close to the axle. If it has only one hole in this location (for a cable) maybe you can drill a coordinating hole on the opposite flange to accommodate a bolt that will hold the loop of the new winch strap.
If memory serves me correctly, the winch and strap I installed on my old trailer was attached as Ben said, with a small bolt that went through both side plates of the winch close to the axle. If it has only one hole in this location (for a cable) maybe you can drill a coordinating hole on the opposite flange to accommodate a bolt that will hold the loop of the new winch strap.
What do you think? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
My trailer uses a steel cable instead of a nylon strap. I'm not sure, but believe the 2 speed winches can use either. I used nylon strap hold-downs for a racing dinghy, and they sun-rotted fairly quickly. That isn't an issue with a steel cable. Since the strap is the key thing that holds the boat on a roller bunk trailer, I feel much better using the cable than a strap.
"Since the strap is the key thing that holds the boat on a roller bunk trailer"
You should always have a secondary 'safety chain' between the winch tower and the bow eye. Don't trust only the winch to hold the boat on the trailer.
I've seen 'em fail. I had a center console sport-fisherman that would have ended up sitting in the middle of the boat ramp if it weren't for a safety chain. Made me a believer.
I reckon having your C25 sitting on the pavement would ruin your whole day.
<font color="blue">My trailer uses a steel cable instead of a nylon strap. I'm not sure, but believe the 2 speed winches can use either. I used nylon strap hold-downs for a racing dinghy, and they sun-rotted fairly quickly. That isn't an issue with a steel cable. Since the strap is the key thing that holds the boat on a roller bunk trailer, I feel much better using the cable than a strap. - Steve</font id="blue">
Hmmmmm ... that got me to thinking ... would it be feasible to modify an old swinger SS keel cable to replace the nylon strap? I'd bet I'm not the only guy who's got an old cable lying around ... it just seemed too good to throw away.
Does anyone think the idea might work? Be kind y'all ...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">would it be feasible to modify an old swinger SS keel cable to replace the nylon strap? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> A new cable for a trailer winch isn't that expensive. I recently replaced mine with a new 20 foot long cable, and it cost about $15. <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">You should always have a secondary 'safety chain' between the winch tower and the bow eye. Don't trust only the winch to hold the boat on the trailer. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> I didn't mean to suggest that you shouldn't have a safety chain. When you launch, there comes a time when you have to disconnect the safety chain. If you disconnect it, and the strap takes up the strain and breaks, you could launch on the ramp, or before the boat is deep enough to float.
"I didn't mean to suggest that you shouldn't have a safety chain"
Figured you'd know that... really put that comment there for the folks out there that are new to towing. I've seen a couple 'stock' C25 trailers without safety chains (the one for the boat)... mine came without a safety chain too.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.