Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
The 22 year old aluminum frame windows on my 25 are beginning to leak. I've gotten mixed reviews on the idea of refitting them with the materials from Catalina Direct. Another option is to upgrade to the black tint windows from Cruising Concepts, but this option is more expensive.
Any thoughts from anyonw who has done this before?
Thanks!
Stewart Eads "Osprey" 1982 FK/TR #3408 Charleston Harbor, SC
Do you know where the leak is? Basically there are only 2 areas that leak (with the older aluminum frames) One is between the glass and the frame the other is between the frame and boat. This is what I did and it has worked great for 3 years (so far on this boat) and about 10 years on a C22 I use to own.
Take the windows out and check for water damage to the deck core. If you need help here on this part we can address it in detail in a different thread if you'd like.
Next you need to clean the surface of the deck area around the window hole. Remove all old sealant with a solvent type cleaner (I used a little acetone and a lot of elbow grease) and also the frame that fits in this area.
There is a joint in the frame that should be sealed with a good caulking (DO NOT TAKE APART) (here I used aquarium glass silicone)
To replace the window you will need to use another good sealant (NOT THE AQUARIUM SILICONE) I've had friends use both 3M's 4200 & 5200 but I found that window putty tape (you can get this at any RV camper store) is easy to work with is cheap and lasts. Just place the putty tape on the frame in a continuous loop (overlap the tape seam on the opposite side of the frames seam) Place window in opening and tighten down. Trim the excess putty with a putty knife and your done. As the summer sun heats the putty you may need to re-tighten and trim again once more.
Now if your leak is between the glass and the frame you can do a couple of things. The thin gasket seal can be replaced (tuff to do) or (what I did) silicone inplace. I used that aquarium silicone on the inside and outside surface. Just lay a nice 1/16 to 1/8 inch bead in around the joint and smooth with finger. This can be messy so go slow and have plenty of rags on hand. The nice thing about this type of silicon is it's strength when dried and it trims up well with a razor blade. There is also a thinner silicone (water like) that can be applied to wick into the gasket while the window is in place to help seal that off.
The reason I said to not take apart the frame earlier was because that should be your last resort. That gasket is difficult to replace but it can be done. Also there are two gasket type materials from CD the small one is for the glass/frame joint and the larger one is cosmetic only. It fills the gap between the inner and outer frame edges (on the inside only)
Hope that helps, if you have any further questions your welcome to e-mail me (it's in my profile) Good Luck
Mark, Is the thin silicon hard to find? I also have 2 windows leaking and was looking for an easy way out this season, That sounds much easier than pulling the frame apart, I have done that before and it isn't much fun. Also, when I am smoothing silicon on something, Soapy water on the finger will keep the silicon from sticking to your finger and make a very smooth bead. Happy Sailing! Jim
Captain Tolley's Creepin' Crack Cure at West Marine and others. Beware, however, that this is the consistency of milk, runs everywhere, requires multiple applications, and leaves stains on the deck which I've yet to figure out how to get out; although I've not yet tried oxalic acid.
<font color="blue">Mark, Is the thin silicon hard to find? - Jim</font id="blue">
Hi Jim,
I'm not sure if Mark is referring to the same thing when he mentions "thin silicon" ... but, I've had good luck with Permatex Auto Glass Sealer. It is thin, and it wicks into the space between the aluminum frame and the cabin top ... it sure is easier to try this stuff first before you completely remove the window and rebed it.
You can find it at WalMart, or any auto parts place ... it's cheap, too (compared to boat stuff anyway).
Last fall I caulked around one of my windows using 3M 5200. I don't know if it was a wise choice but it stopped the leak & hopefully I won't have to do it again. What product do you recommend to rebed the stantions & chain plates?
Hi Jim, Buzz is correct as to the product which I was referring to as "thin silicone" It is made by Permatex called Windshield & Glass Seal Part #65A Item No. 81730. As Buzz said, you should be able to find it at any auto parts store.
I rebedded my windows last summer with silicone. The head window continued to leak, so on the third try I used the putty like tape from the auto store. Masked off the window on the cabin side, ran the putty like you said, had to do quite a bit of squeezing (I'll bring some small clamps next time, since the ports open), but it all tightened down ok. Came back a couple of days later and tightened it a little more to make it fit flusher to the cabin side, and zipped off the excess with a knife. Pull of the tape and it was done, no muss no fuss. So far no leaks, and it looks good. I will use the putty tape next time-- it is cheaper than 3M 101, and easier to remove if it needs to be rebedded.
I have used 3M 101 for rebedding hardware on the deck over the years, and I like it. It lasts better than silicone, stays flexable, is an adheasive but easy to removed for rebedding. Also works under water. I heard you need to wet it down to make it set up faster.
Check my "Catalina Window Math" post if you're still thinking about taking the window apart and replacing the glazing. Its a tricky nasty job that requires EXTREME diligence. I suggest any alternative that has worked for others.
I GOT THE REPAIR KIT FROM CATALINA DIRECT. TOOK ABOUT 3 OR 4 HOURS ON THE FIRST WINDOW. AFTER THAT WASN'T AS BAD. NO LEAKS FOR A YEAR. NO LEAKS. BEFORE IT WAS LIKE A WATERSLIDE ON THE PORT WINDOW OVER THE STOVE. IT DOES TAKE AT LEAST ONE EXTRA SET OF HANDS TO GET THE JOB DONE. JOHN ON MS ACHSA 77
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.